Thoughts on this intake

[Liquid_force]

I've removed the sax.
Messed with the Porter method and didn't like my results.

I thought I might try this - http://www.shopatron.com/products/productdetail/part_number=8746/2231.0.1.1
and use one of these to get it through the side panel w/o it being cut by the sheet metal - http://www.shopatron.com/products/productdetail/part_number=8148/2231.0.1.1
after closer inspection I guess it won't go THROUGH the mounting plate, just TO it.

Total cost ~$17.

I hope there is enough of a lip on the hose coupler that I can trim it to fit the airbox better than the pvc coupler did.

 

[Johnlemon]

what about the porter/troxel method didn't you like?
I was thinking of doing this to my '97

 

[kevinspann]

what about the porter/troxel method didn't you like?
I was thinking of doing this to my '97

The shit doesn't fit, period.

 

[newshofan]

Correct me if I'm wrong but I thought the porter/troxel method was simply cutting deleting the saxaphone and cutting the original pipe about two or three inches after it comes through the fender? If not that's basicly what I did.
I removed the saxaphone and right where the original pipe came through the fender and started to make the bend I cut it there I have abput two maybe three inches coming through the fender. I was going to make a trip to the hardware store to get some three inch pipe. But after driving it and what not I figured what is a few extra bucks going to do. The response was already much better. So I left it alone and I love hearing that air get sucked in the engine.

 

[Johnlemon]

here is Paul Nimz's intake, which has a cone filter the fender. Looks great but too much work.

I'd like to do the troxel method with a K&N panel filter, but I'm wondering if I will lose too much performance because it'll take in more hot air, and also if any water will get in. But then again, it almost never rains here.
http://v8sho.com/SHO/IntakeModificationMikeTroxelsVersion.htm

anyone have a video or sound clip of how this intake sounds?

 

[Liquid_force]

I removed the sax entirely.

I was trying to fit the 3" coupler to the air box with the 3" 45 degree pvc elbow into the wheel well.
Nothing was coming together for me. The airbox sits weird in the engine compartment - the coupler doesn't mate flush with the air box and situating the elbow just wasn't working for me.
I kept the upper part of the sax so I can go that route if I can't come up with something else.
The neck of the sax seems pretty small to me though.

I measured the neck of the sax just upstream from the air box. It's right around 2.5".
That doesn't seem much different than 3", but it amounts to 30% less area.

I'll see what I can come up with. Cutting back the sax is certainly a reasonable option.

 

[newshofan]

I personaly don't think there's much of a difference. I mean your talking about six inches or so. So maybe a few inches is 2.5 but my engine bay looks stock everything sits where it should. I didn't like the thought of my airbox hanging by a single bolt.
I'm very happy with my current intake settup. I'm running just a regular fram air filter. it seems a few people have had issues with maf sensors on these cars with a k/n. I've sence hollowed out my third cat and the ballance is great with the stock muffs. Intake almost seems louder.
Id be glad to pull my fender gourd off and snap a pic I may even have one on my exhaust intake thread from awhile back. I read through all the intake exaust articles several times before I started the project

 

[stephen newberg]

Simplify. Forget the PVC. Remove all of the sax. cut the intake to the airbox to leave half an inch of lip or so that you can attache to. Get about 18 inches of truck radiator hose that will fit over the intake lip you just made for the air box, I forget if it is 4 inches or somewhat less. Push one end through the structural hole in the inner wheel well and then cut the other to fit cleanly over the lip on the air box and leave it assembled like that. Mark were the hose goes through the inner well on the hose. Remove it and cut away excess hose so you leave a couple of inches that fit through into the inner well. Re-assemble it all to make sure it fits. Then drill the lip and hose for 3 small stainless screws at 120 degrees apart to assemble the hose to the air box lip. Install screws. If you do not want the screws to show, then put a large stainless radiator clamp around the junction of the hose and air box over the tops of the screws. Done. No pvc, no elbows, cold air straight to the airbox, and seriously low cost. Its pretty easy to install, too.

Here is what it looks like, though all very dirty from having been in there since shortly after I bought the car:

http://s4.photobucket.com/albums/y136/newberg/?action=view&current=MVC-025S.jpg

Its more cleaned up these days.

pax, smn