1.Already had aluminum bushings and reinforced mounts.
2.I'm pretty sure the whine is louder with vehicle speed, i'll get back to you tomorrow.
3.I'll try that also, i'm thinking the knocking is coming from inside the trans, because it doesn't go away right when I press the clutch.
4.I didn't dent any cages as far as I know. I also doubt I mixed up a bearing if that is possible. I was maybe thinking I mixed up a race, but I doubt the whine would be this prevalent.
5.I did have trouble at first, because of a stupid mistake. Then it went together nice.
I must have mixed up a shim, i'm too careful to mix up a race. I doubt it can be the tob whining based on the sound, but I don't know.
If I mixed up a shim how many bearings use the same size shim, if any? I want to know what to look for if I tear it apart again. It would probably be obvious though.
I believe the shims I saw were one per bearing, but I guess there could be two per bearing also.
I never heard knocking this loud before so I doubt it's normal. I never heard any abnormal noises except maybe a slight knock, and my pp fingers were screwed. I also replaced the fork pivot bushings.
I have gotten on the car and it shifts fine at every rpm. Could a shim issue cause shifting complications?
Any ideas are welcome i'm no expert
-edit-
With the cable disconnected no difference.
I didn't inspect the diff bearing when I got the diff back in the mail. Maybe a bearing got damaged?
When I disconnected the cable the car started rolling back, I almost forgot. I don't know if that is a sign of anything. I think it wasn't in gear when it happened.
1. That's already going to amplify any noises you're going to hear coming from the engine bay area, and depending on the style of mount you have can increase that, as well. I can personally hear my gears slow down when being shifted into, and the whole clash from the synchronizers upon engagement.
2. You can test that in your driveway. If you can rev the motor while parked and the noise increases, it's not going to be associated with the differential.
3. I'll agree with you on that, but all of the internals do not come to a complete stop instantly when you press in the clutch. This is why you must engage a gear before selecting reverse. You can test thisk in your driveway, too. If the noises come and go during this driveway test, it's something in the transmission but not the differential.
4. I haven't torn into my transmissions in awhile, so I can't say anything on the bearings and races right now.
5. What was this mistake? Did you have trouble keeping the race and shims in place on assemble? Did you double check that you didn't lose a shim inside the casing? They're hard to notice if you're frustrated and trying to get the job finished. I had to remove my transmission and crack the case back open when I reached for a tool and grabbed a shim...
In my opinion, and as far as the synchronizer travels during a shift, a shim will have no effect on shifting.
About the differential bearing, I'd look into it. I know they were good when it was in my hands and being boxed up, but I have no idea on the shipment back. Was the box damaged up any?
Also, what do you consider a knock? And is it a knock, whine, or both? I also read in you cracked rack thread the noise is coming and going at times, what times do you speak of? Other than that, it's best to find out first where the problem is coming from, the differential or the shafts.
