These codes are not good! Part 2

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rendyx

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Today I decided I would run the EEC test, after my alternator problems, and see if everything was working okay. I drove around a bit, warmed up the SHO, then came back and jumpered the pins. I did the tests, and got these codes. They seem to get worse and worse.
1. 24 - ACT sensor temp out of range (is this because its freezing cold out?)
2. 66 - MAF voltage below range (left in memory, from when the car was running on a dead battery)
3. 25? - Knock sensor issue (hopefully because of the cold)
4. Cylinders 2 & 3 have some sort of problem in the cylinder balancing test.

As a result of these codes, especially the last one, tomorrow I will reset the computer, and rerun the codes. The only things I can think of that could cause these odd codes are the cold weather, that I ran the tests a couple times to make sure I read the codes right, and my aging plugs and wires, soon to be replaced. And that I don't believe I have reset the computer since the car was running without an alternator, only on a dying battery.

So any thoughts on these codes? Could a simple reset and retest solve them? I'm a bit worried.

<small>[ January 26, 2003, 11:20 AM: Message edited by: rendyx ]</small>
 

luigisho

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Your instinct is good. There may be a problem but it's probably best to clear the codes and see what develops. Make sure the car is up to operating temp to get a good reading.

BTW I recall seeing somewhere (and I could be remembering incorrectly) that the ACT may not get an accurate reading below a certain temp.

<small>[ January 25, 2003, 11:01 PM: Message edited by: luigisho ]</small>
 

projectSHO89

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Do try unplugging and replugging the ACT sensor and the MAF sensors. This might fix any problems with intermittent connections due to corrosion. You should also consider removing and cleaning the MAF sensor element. Brake cleaner works great for this.

I had posted a resistance vs. temperature chart a couple of weeks ago for the ACT. In addition to that table, I indicated that the table only included values down to 10 C. This does not mean that the sensor reads inaccurately at lower temps, it probably just isn't relevent for the TESTING of the sensor. I mean, how many shops will be taking resistance readings at or below freezing?

Do do the reset of the PCM, let it learn its idle, then go for a nice test drive of at least 15 minutes before re-running the test.

Steve

<small>[ January 26, 2003, 09:21 AM: Message edited by: projectSHO89 ]</small>
 

rendyx

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Okay, this morning I reset the computer, let it relearn its idle according to sdpatt's procedure (well, from memory :D ), then it out for a drive. At first, it felt a little rough. And it does still feel slightly weak (more on this later). It began to smooth out, and I drove around for about 30 minutes or so, came back home, and ran the test. I got:
1. 24 - ACT, probably is the temp, I'll have to try reconnecting it too, as Steve suggested
2. 25 - Knock sensor not detected, I have no clue why. Perhaps a bad connection? If necessary, I can change it when I've got the intake off.

No cylinder issues! So what should I try with the knock sensor?

Thanks guys! :)

Oh, on it running slow. It seems since I got it, the car has become weaker and weaker. I went to an ECSHOC meet, and I had a tough time climbing a hill compared to the other guys. I suspect this is a spark plug issue, as I have not yet changed the rear plugs, and the front ones are Autolite ones. This is the next job - as I have all the stuff in a box on the kitchen table! thumbs_u
 

BlackOnBlackATX

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i dunno man, the 24 shouldnt be because of the cold. its been -10 here where i am in new york at night and im not getting any codes like that. i would still change it. its only around $20 i think.
 

sdpatt

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Ignore the code 25 if you are not having a problem with pinging. All it means is that the EEC did not hear a knock during the test. That doesn't mean the knock sensor is not working, just that there may not have been one generated during the test. Rest easy on the code 25.
 

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