thermostat burp valve

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LJRuddy

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I am replacing my radiator after one of the end tanks blew up on me. While I had the radiator out, I decided it would be a good time to replace the coolant hoses and the T-stat... I went to Napa, O'Reilly's, Autozone, Advanced and a Pep Boys and none of them sold a T-stat (180, 192, or 195 degree) with that burp valve in it. From what I have read on here as well as what I have witnessed in person, putting a T-stat in the SHO will mean engine cooling issues down the road. I agree with this as every car I have ever had to replace the T-stat with a new unit that did not have this valve, they always ran hotter than normal and overheated very easily.

Does anyone have some T-stat part numbers I could take to an auto parts store? What else am I to do??
 

Pro*banshee

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I've never had problems with my thermostat and I even used one without jiggle valves :shrug:
 

SHObill

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the 'jiggle valve' is only there to help remove any air bubbles from dis-assembly. Just drill a 1/4' hole in it & install with the hole up if it does not have a 'jiggle valve'!
 
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Devin

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No jiggle valve in mine, but I leak coolant somewhere so I can't be too proud of my setup...
 

itwonder

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Go back to Autozone and buy Duralast 15878 thermostat, and Felpro 35278 seal. This is an excellent thermostat and has the proper jiggle valve which is oriented up upon installation.

The Duralast thermostat keeps the temperature gauge needle much more stable than the Motorcraft thermostat I had in there before. This one is 180 degree, they have an identical 192 degree one if you prefer.
 

gmail

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i drilled the holes in mine and mine ended up running too cold actually hurt performance also.

use motocraft with jiggle valves.
 

LJRuddy

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Thanks for the comments everyone! I went ahead and just kept the NAPA 180 degree T-stat that I had already. I took a 9/64 bit that was already in the drill and put a hole at the 12 o'clock position.

The replacement of the hoses, t-stat and radiator went flawlessly. Burped the system for what seemed like forever and went to drive it. Did a quick 8 mile loop with some city and highway driving and the car did not run overly warm at all. However, I am still having a problem with the system building pressure. Even after the fan cycled 3 times and I did this 8 mile drive, the upper rad. hose was still soft to the touch. This boggles my mind as my old coolant passed the exhaust gas test today. I did a pressure test about 3 weeks ago when this problem first arose and although I cannot remember the exact pressure results, I do remember them passing with flying colors.

I suppose that as long as I am not loosing coolant and the engine is not running hot/overheating, it is not a huge deal. Come to think of it, my Mustang has always had soft coolant hoses while the engine was at operating temp.
 

38SHO

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did you put on a new cap?

whats the pressure for the cap

is that upper hose getting hot?

if you turn on your heater does the air comming out of it get hot as usual or as it should?
 

hawkeye18

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I took my dremel and drilled a 1/16" hole in mine. This is a very small hole. But, it lets air bubbles through just fine when they're under 16 psi of pressure. And, it still heats up within 2 miles.
 

LJRuddy

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did you put on a new cap?

whats the pressure for the cap

is that upper hose getting hot?

if you turn on your heater does the air comming out of it get hot as usual or as it should?

I didn't put a new cap on but I probably should. I believe it is 16 psi.

Upper hose is the first thing to start getting warm. It actually heats up very quick after initial start up.

Heater blows hot air within 2 minutes of running. Then again, it is 90F and 80% humidity here. :nut:
 

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