The ultimate question: Clutches

[Jake94MTXSHO]

Since i have a 94 MTX, my clutch is going (i know, big shock). i have never had much luck with clutches. my family has owned this car since it was new in 1994 and it is know on i think its 4th clutch at 123,000. it is going to need a 5th clutch really soon and i have 2 questions: How long do your clutches usually last? and what clutch do you recommend since i am wondering if i will have better luck not using the motorcraft clutch. Thanks!

 

[jayro]

Clutch life has alot to do with driving habits/style. You would need to watch how you are driving and see if there are any habits that are causing the clutches to fail/ Also look at how they are failing...straps breaking, fingers wearing out, clutch material gone ect. As far as aftermarket I have heard good things about the southbend clutches. I am currently running a CM Stage 1 with good luck (though some have had mixed sucess with them).

 

[Enzo731]

So far I'm running a Southbend Stage 1. Engagement is crisp. I didn't install it myself but they people who did seemed to have gotten it right. No weird noises.

Aftermarket will take more abuse and harder driving habits. So it's a personal choice really.

The Southbend Stage 1 is doing fine so far. No issues.

My main issue is my left foot. It's my first manual vehicle. I can sometimes forget where my friction point is.

 

[St Louis SHO]

Put a cheap one in it. With as many as you go through, id put the cheapest clutch I could buy in it, until you learn to properly drive it.

 

[itwonder]

What is the failure mode with your clutches? If it is the TOB, then you may want to try upgrading it to the SHONUT ceramic TOB. RCM Automotive has clutch kits at a good price.

 

[SuperchargedSHOguy]

shosource.com has a great selection of clutch kits for all driving habits and with every purchase you know part of the money is going back into the community for other new parts and R&D for future parts... just saying.

 

[Jake94MTXSHO]

I was not the one to go through all those clutches, my mom drove the car from new until 115,000 when it sat for a few years in 2006-2009 miles, and i just got it last year from her as a daily driver to from school (im in high school) and she claims she wasnt ******* it but most of the time i remember i was too young to remember.

 

[SHOhopefull]

Ok, new question... Which one would be a better one to run with a Fidanzza?

 

[BAM614]

My car's on it's "3rd" clutch and I've only got 72k on mine...

Granted I haven't had to do a clutch in the car since I bought it from the original owner 7500 miles ago, so we'll see how long it lasts.

The previous/original owner who was older, like mid 60's, told me that it was common for the SHO's to have clutch issues when new, as he had the first one done under warranty at like 8-9000 miles and they told him this.

Then he had another one put in at like 52k as part of regular maintenance he said, don't think it was blown but yeah. Of course, the guy spent a TON of money on going above and beyond regular maintenance, but I'm not complaining.

I will say this, there are days that I *think* my clutch feels not right, but it's never slipped to my knowledge and always gets me where I want to go. It just feels like the engagement point changes/softens sometimes, but I dunno.

Personally if/when I have to do a clutch it's getting an aftermarket one that can take a little more abuse, not that I abuse the car, but I do like romping on it every once in awhile, and I'd hate to tear up a brand new factory clutch quickly when an aftermarket may last longer.

 

[nothingtoseehere]

A stock clutch has been proven time and time again for a stock to mildly modded engine. Get a Valeo or a LUK clutch and call it a day.

If you are beating on the car, running boost, nitrous, etc ... go heavier. However, since you are a younger guy, I assume those things are not in your budget, nor is track time. Stock should be fine.

 

[zak]

Since i have a 94 MTX, my clutch is going (i know, big shock). i have never had much luck with clutches. my family has owned this car since it was new in 1994 and it is know on i think its 4th clutch at 123,000. it is going to need a 5th clutch really soon and i have 2 questions: How long do your clutches usually last? and what clutch do you recommend since i am wondering if i will have better luck not using the motorcraft clutch. Thanks!

How do you know it is ready for a clutch? Is it slipping (if so, cold vs hot) or are you having trouble with getting it into first or reverse?

Your answer will indicate which clutch option out there might be the best for you (or your mom).

 

[Brett]

I agree for a stock car, stock clutch. Theres a guy in TX with a near stock SHO running a 75 shot for something like 10k or 20k miles without problems on a stock clutch. Although i would recommend you spring for the ceramic TOB.

 

[nothingtoseehere]

How do you know it is ready for a clutch? Is it slipping (if so, cold vs hot) or are you having trouble with getting it into first or reverse?

Your answer will indicate which clutch option out there might be the best for you (or your mom).

 

[Jake94MTXSHO]

How do you know it is ready for a clutch? Is it slipping (if so, cold vs hot) or are you having trouble with getting it into first or reverse?

Your answer will indicate which clutch option out there might be the best for you (or your mom).

i had my mom drive it a couple days ago since it was hard to get into first and reverse and she claims it feels like it does shortly before it failed the last 3 times. she cannot remember what the failing point was however :/

 

[zak]

i had my mom drive it a couple days ago since it was hard to get into first and reverse and she claims it feels like it does shortly before it failed the last 3 times. she cannot remember what the failing point was however :/

Inability to get into first or reverse is a clear sign that the throwout bearing inner race has worn deeply into the clutch fingers, keeping the clutch from releasing completely. If you want longer clutch change intervals, consider itwonder's suggestion of the SHOnut ceramic TOB (throw out bearing or clutch release bearing) as it is designed to reduce this problem (SHOsource also sells these).

If you are going to be getting fancy with upshifts/downshifts etc. consider getting a pressure plate with reinforced drive straps. SHOnut has one manufactured to their specs by Clutchmasters, but it is not a Stage I (with altered pivot points and frequent release problems) just has the heavy duty drive straps. The straps are the second most common failure point on a SHO clutch, after the finger wear problem. Think SHOnut sells it as a package with the ceramic TOB.

 

[AREA 91]

1st recomendation is a stock clutch with a ceramic TOB
2nd recomendation is :SHO NUT Heavy Duty Pressure plate and Valeo disc by Clutchmasters w/CERAMIC TOB (HD straps and rivets, NO pressure plate mods) (no PP bolts, buy those below) FREE SHIPPING SNP-HDPPCKCU 465.00

 

[93rev2sev]

Sounds like your mom used the clutch pedal as a foot rest; not at all uncommon. That right there will fry a throw out bearing in ANY manual trans car.

Driven correctly, you should get at least 80k out of a stock clutch and it's failure mode will be "slipping between shifts", not "hard to get into gear".

I didn't say "driven easily", I said driven correctly. You can drive the car about as hard as you want and as long as you shift correctly, the clutch won't really mind.

 

[Jake94MTXSHO]

the first clutch lasted 60k, and the rest only lasted 25ish. knowing my local ford dealer, i would not be surprised if they never changed the throwout bearing and that would be the reason my clutches fail so quickly.

 

[Jake94MTXSHO]

1st recomendation is a stock clutch with a ceramic TOB
2nd recomendation is :SHO NUT Heavy Duty Pressure plate and Valeo disc by Clutchmasters w/CERAMIC TOB (HD straps and rivets, NO pressure plate mods) (no PP bolts, buy those below) FREE SHIPPING SNP-HDPPCKCU 465.00

What is the difference between your 2nd recommendation and the CM stage I clutch kit with a ceramic TOB?

 

[AREA 91]

What is the difference between your 2nd recommendation and the CM stage I clutch kit with a ceramic TOB?

The 2nd recomendation has NOT had the pressure plate pivot point modifications compared to the CM1.

There were several CM1 kits made that had modified pressure plate pivot points, resulting in slippage at high rpm's.

SHO NUT's version has fixed this problem!