The SLOSHO, where do I go from here?

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Denny

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Ok, after a new fuelpump and further diagnosing, there is nothing clear to pinpoint what is making my SHO stall and above all. . . slow. The shop I took it too said it's an electrical problem and they didn't have specialized equipment to go any further than their computer scanners.
As you can see in the sig, the car has many new parts. The exhaust is freeflowing, the intake is freeflowing, the fuelpressure is great, shifting and trans are good, handling is pretty sweet. But according to HunterVF it's as if the car is fighting to rev. We did new plugs, wires and well seals, IAB/IAC and cleaned out the intake with the 60K service. The waterpump had been done by the previous owner and apparently with a new timing belt as well. We didn't touch that however and couldn't see if the CPS was ok. However the shop said the CPS and cam sensor, MAF, TPS were all showing correct voltage readings. There are no codes in memory now, even though it'll still stall, when I make it stall by hitting the gas at idle or by accident. Before I had different codes related to the fuelpump, but they haven't returned since. So I think that puts to death the theory that they were popping up due to stalling. The compression test that I was able to do on four of the cylinders, turned out great, 230-240psi. I doubt the other two are bad, acceleration is smoothe, not jumpy(except for that 4K secondary "magic" :D ) Cylinder balance test showed nothing wrong with injectors. Can't run a key on engine on test, because it'll stall out when it starts to rev.

The car put down 125fwhp at Spring Zing, later that night we swapped out the old cats which were clogged, I noticed a nice difference, the car has an easier time past 5K now. And with the MAF I'm going to say I'm probably putting down about 140 to the wheels now, give or take. However at the strip, my best time so far was 17.7, granted it was hot, and it was my first time at the strip with a stickshift, but I was still disappointed with it being slower than my previous GL. And that's what makes me :mad: at myself, I should have stayed with the "SLO" and beefed that up with the amount of money spent on this SHO thus far. But I love the SHO, I love how it's loaded, and love how it can get up, I just would like it to get up to what I always thought an SHO would do.

Anyways, where else can I possibly go from here? After all that's been invested, I've exhausted options and I guess I feel disappointed at the results thus far.
 

luigisho

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What's that MAF kit? How is performance affected when returned to original maf? I'm thinking ignition/electrical. Have you swapped the major ignition parts with known working ones (dis,coil pack,pcm, even ircm)? Is your alternator pushing enough juice? If you have tried most of these then I would suggest the timing cover come off and investigate the belt and timing gear and cam components. Maybe timing is off just enough to operate albeit poorly.
 

sdpatt

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Seeing as the previous owner replaced the timing belt, maybe you should check to make sure it is timed correctly. Turn the crankshaft damper clockwise until the white mark (the second one when turning CW) is aligned with the "0" mark on the lower timing belt cover. Then remove the upper timing belt cover and verify that the index marks on the camshaft pulleys are aligned with the index marks on the rear timing belt cover at the 12 o'clock position.

The only other thing I can think of that would suppress the power as greatly as you have found would be the timing is not being advanced by the EEC. When you ran the KOEO test (you did, didn't you?), what codes did you find? If the timing is not being advanced, you will get the SPOUT circuit error and possibly others.
 

projectSHO89

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You can also check your Fuel Ppressure regulator. On my 1st Gen Explorer, the diaphram ruptures and causes rich running conditions due to fuel being sucked into the intake via the FPR's vacuum line.

Unplug the vacuum line from the regulator and see if there is fuel in that line.

Quick check and it doesn't cost anything....except a few minutes.

Steve
 

Twisted99

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If either of the spout plugs are missing or loose I believe your timing defaults to Base timing of 10 degrees BTDC.
 

Denny

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Luigi, it's a Ford 80mm MAF swapped with the electrical connector from my 55 one. Performance-wise, I can feel a better low end and the secondaries rev, but the SHO overall isn't too impressive.
Scott, Hunter and I will check out the timing belt this weekend and most likely replace the CPS, I did get that code once, but it hasn't returned yet, and you said that the sensor has failed at least once now, it will be a matter of time.
I can recheck the FPR, Project, but last time I never noticed any fuel. And yes, the $500 SHO has now become the over $3K moneypit.
Twisted, where are the SPOUT plugs located and what would they look like?
 

projectSHO89

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You won't see any fuel unless you disconnect the vacuum line.

The SPOUT plug is next to the EEC test connector, in the vicinity of the cam sensor.

Steve
 

Denny

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Is the SPOUT connector the unused connection that's over by the two EEC test connections?

<small>[ June 26, 2002, 12:48 AM: Message edited by: Denny ]</small>
 

Denny

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<bump>
I couldn't get a clear pic to turn out, sorry, but there's this small what looks like a connection, but it has like a cap to it, located by the two EEC testor connections. Is this SPark OUTput or something else?
 

jcostantino

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According to the book:

The Spark Output Check Connector #1 is located at the RH rear of the engine, taped to the fuel charge harness.

The Spark Output Check Connector #2 is located at the LH front of the engine compartment, below ignition coil.

Jeff
 

Denny

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Whoah..
Two check connectors?? How do I check spark output and if the EEC is advancing timing? Timing light? How would I do that on this engine? And ran codes today after having stalling mishaps. No codes, all clear with 11 :confused:
 

Twisted99

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put a timing light on #1 I think and pull the spout out of the one connector under the coils. The timng should default to 10 degrees before TDC. Or just look at the timing marks on the crank@ the TDC indicator there. Open the throttle somewhat and you should see the timing walk back and forth...but do the spout thing. Make sure to plug it back in..after.Car should still idle..just somewhat slower.
 

Denny

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Alright, I guess I'll bring a timing light to Chris' tomorrow and check it out
 

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