The annoyance that just wont quit...

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SHO-Me-Up

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A week or so after i bought my SHO the brake pads were ground down to paper thin metal and the rotors were chewed to no end. My father and I broke it down and fixed the pads and rotors. All seemed well for the time being. Yesterday I looked at my car which i most oftenly do and i noticed that my one rim was discolored. (twas the symptom of the brake problem last time) So i look in the wheel and sure enough, brake pads are paper thin and the rotor is chewed... The first time this happened the other side (these are the rear brake systems) was all messed up as well, but when i looked this time, they were fine, the other wheel is not discolored, the shoes are fine and the rotor is as smooth as ice. Why is this endless money pit consuming my wallet? What is the problem with my brakes? The front calipers are new but the rear ones are old still... could it be them?
 

masho95

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Since the problem is in the rear, I think there are two basic parts you need to take a better look at. First inspect the emergency brake cable to check to see if it's sticking at all. Second might be a bad caliper if the caliper piston is sticking. I'd take a good look at both.
 

SHOtimer

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Also, take a look at the slider pins and maybe give them some grease. It is a common problem that they hang up and prevent the caliper from moving and releasing from the rotor.

Doug
 

Mr Anonymous

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Probably either seized slider pin, or a collapsed brake hose. If you have to open the bleeder to turn the piston back in on the rears, it's usually a bad brake hose.
 

Bizzy

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Mr. Anonymous said:
Probably either seized slider pin, or a collapsed brake hose. If you have to open the bleeder to turn the piston back in on the rears, it's usually a bad brake hose.

What he said. :thumb:
 

DHMag

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Mr. Anonymous said:
Probably either seized slider pin, or a collapsed brake hose. If you have to open the bleeder to turn the piston back in on the rears, it's usually a bad brake hose.


agreed. and to add: if it is a seized slider pin, be prepared to but some elbow grease into and save up your patience. it took me close to an hour to get one pin freed up. i had a total of 3 that were seized. on the last one, i snapped it off in the bracket. i couldnt wait for a new bracket, so i carefully drilled mine out and installed a new pin. the hole is slightly off center, therefore my RR pad and rotor, go away a lot faster than my LR. replaced/drilled the pins at 118K miles, just replaced pads and rotors at 136K. YMMV because i have the rear valve bias plugged.
 

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