tensioner pulley

[shotimev6]

anyone have the part number for the mtx manual tensioner? or have one for sale???

beer

 

[underdog1924]

You might be able to get the P/N from Ford Parts Network . Though I think that this may be discontinued, but don't take my word for it.

 

[shotimev6]

i couldnt find it on there...maybe i was looking in the wrong place???

beer

 

[underdog1924]

Go to the order form and fill out you info and then on the bottom where it asks what parts are needed tell him what you need. They will email you back with a P/N and a price.

 

[SHOZ123]

If you just need the bearing get the gen 3 pulley and press the bearing out. They are identical to the bearings used in both V6 pulleys. Cost is <$30 from FPN. F6DZ-8678-A

 

[Yamaha V6]

FYI, they are not D/C'd. I bought 2 last month. Dealer told me 70 were "due to be shipped to the warehouse", so I placed an order for a couple. They are still available. Now, Paul's right, they're a heck of a lot cheaper to replace the bearing only, as he mentioned. I seem to recall the V6 T-belt tensioners being over $100 list.

 

[shotimev6]

im sorry i never specified...its the tensioner for the ac/alt belt

beer

 

[rangerj]

Shotimev6,

Do yourself a favor and listen to SHOZ123. The idler pulley you need is Approximately $100. You can buy a Gen III idler pulley for about $30, press out the bearing in both pulleys, and press in the Gen III bearing into your pulley.

The bearing is an NSK 20-15 DWA. It is the same bearing used in the Gen III SHO idler pulley. You cannot get this bearing any other way (period).

If you do not know how to press out the bearing, and/or do not have the tools, go to your local auto shop and have it done for a small fee. Please listen to SHOZ123, if you don't he gets grumpy and takes it out on the rest of us! rangerj

 

[SHOZ123]

Grumpy huh???

All you need to do to get the bearing out is put it on a vice and using a socket tap it out with a hammer. It will come out fairly easy. Same thing to reinstall. Just get a socket big enough to sit on the outer ring of the bearing.

 

[Mike Kopstain]

The problem with Mike's tensioner is that it keeps walking off the bearing. Is there a channel that holds the bearing in place that perhaps came loose or did something on the actual tensioner break, thus allowing the bearing to do this?

 

[SHOZ123]

The pulley is smooth on the inside where the bearing mounts. If the bearing won't stay in the pulley then it must have spun and wore. JB Weld?

<small>[ January 03, 2003, 02:46 PM: Message edited by: SHOZ123 ]</small>

 

[rangerj]

Mikey,

If the pulley is walking off of the bearing it would seem that the bearing siezed at one time and the pulley was spun around the bearing.

The question would be; did the outer surface of the bearing wear, or did the inner surface of the pulley wear? If it is the latter, then a new bearing would fit loose in the pulley. If this is the case a new pulley may be necessary.

Shos123,

You beat the bearing out with a hammer? And then beat the NEW bearing in with a hammer? Try using a socket to press the bearing out, with a larger socket to act as a receiver. Use a vice, or a large "C" clamp, as a press.

Your are absolutely right the socket should fit as near to the outer ring of the bearing as possible, so as not to distort the bearing!

The hammer in the wrong hand, not yours, can shorten the life of the bearing dramatically. If you are going to "hammer" the bearing in, then lay the pulley on a flat surface and place a piece of wood flat over the bearing, and "tap" it into the pulley using the wood to protect the bearing. IMHO rangerj

 

[shotimev6]

ok heres the deal...i was doing about 80 on the highway and the nut that holds the pulley on backed off and the pulley fell of and rolled down the highway. when i found it the bearing was out so i hammered it back in the same way paul said to do it. then about a week later the pulley was walking off the bearing so i assume hitting the ground going so fast did something bad. i could weld it like its a gen 3 cam but the pulley was kinda chewed up from the concrete so its temporarily on till i get a new pulley.
paul: are you saying i use a gen 3 bearing with my pulley? or can i use the gen 3 pulley too?

beer

<small>[ January 03, 2003, 04:23 PM: Message edited by: shotimev6 ]</small>

 

[RI-SHO]

The Idler pullies themselves are $80.71 for the 4-rib(powersteering/waterpump), and $84.58 for the 6-rib(alt-a/c), all from FPN, might be cheaper if you email Torrie.

Like Fred said the whole tensioner assembly is well over $100, to be exact its $194 eek! .

 

[SHOZ123]

You beat the bearing out with a hammer?

rangerj, did I say I beat it out with a hammer?? no I said use a socket and tap it out..... Now I am getting grumpy!!!!! squint

 

[rangerj]

SHOZ123,

Mea culpa, mea culpa, mea culpa. I ask your forgiveness. You did indeed say "tap" it out, and/or in, with a hammer.

I meant no disrespect toward you. I intended to point out to the less experienced, who may have read "tap" and interpreted it as "beat", that using a hammer to press in a bearing can damage the bearing if not done correctly.

Again I did not intend to imply anything disparaging about you. I apologise if you took it that way. rangerj

 

[RI-SHO]

SHOZ123:
If you just need the bearing get the gen 3 pulley and press the bearing out. They are identical to the bearings used in both V6 pulleys. Cost is <$30 from FPN. F6DZ-8678-A

Is this the idler pulley that is $30 for the Gen III SHO or Gen III DOHC V6?

 

[SHOZ123]

That is for the '97 Gen 3 SHO. On my '99 motor the pulley is a bit different and I think can be used as a direct replacement. The back has a lip to retain the belt but the front is rounded. I do not know the '99 part number.

 

[RI-SHO]

Will the bearing from the Autozone idler/tensioner pulley sold for the Gen I/II work as a bearing replacement for the OEM pulley bearing? Only difference in the Autozone one is the back has no spacer and is rounded with no lips, so it cant be used as a replacement like there computers say it can.