tell me more about crankshaft position sensor
- Thread starter webster44
- Start date
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olympic
SHO Member
The CPS is a common failure part. One sure sign is while your driving, the tach will drop to zero and the car will stall only to restart a few minutes later and run fine. This usually happens when the engine is hot after driving for a while. A leaky water pump will **** the CPS real fast as it's directly below the pump.
The part itself isn't that expensive($85 from www.fordpartsnetwork.com , cheaper from chain stores) but it's alot of labor to get at it. You have to remove the serpentine belts, idler pullies, timing covers, crank dampner and timing belt. This is a good time to replace the waterpump, timing belt and front crank seal if they've got alot of miles on them or look at all questionable.
<small>[ March 10, 2002, 06:42 AM: Message edited by: olympic ]</small>
The part itself isn't that expensive($85 from www.fordpartsnetwork.com , cheaper from chain stores) but it's alot of labor to get at it. You have to remove the serpentine belts, idler pullies, timing covers, crank dampner and timing belt. This is a good time to replace the waterpump, timing belt and front crank seal if they've got alot of miles on them or look at all questionable.
<small>[ March 10, 2002, 06:42 AM: Message edited by: olympic ]</small>
SHOemup
New Member
Yes, everything with the last post is correct. I bought my CPS for about 45 bucks at autozone. but be sure to tell the retards there that you want the crank sensor because they gave me the cam sensor twice.
As for labor. It's not an easy job. Like olympic said, you should go out, by a rebuil waterpump with a lifetime warranty and change that. That could possilby be the reason you need a crank sensor. I've only heard of them going b/c the waterpump is leaking. What happens is the waterpump will leak coolant on to the crank sensor causing the car to shut down and then the coolant hits the catalytic convertor leaving no sign of a coolant leak. But yes, it is a tough job, you have to pretty much take apart the entire right side of the engine bay to get at it. If you're doing it yourself, rent a 1in torque wrench for that damn crank bolt. I didn't and had to put a breaker bar in between the bolt and the frame of the car, hook the battary back up and bump the ignition to get the bolt to break. it's on there tight. good Luck!!
As for labor. It's not an easy job. Like olympic said, you should go out, by a rebuil waterpump with a lifetime warranty and change that. That could possilby be the reason you need a crank sensor. I've only heard of them going b/c the waterpump is leaking. What happens is the waterpump will leak coolant on to the crank sensor causing the car to shut down and then the coolant hits the catalytic convertor leaving no sign of a coolant leak. But yes, it is a tough job, you have to pretty much take apart the entire right side of the engine bay to get at it. If you're doing it yourself, rent a 1in torque wrench for that damn crank bolt. I didn't and had to put a breaker bar in between the bolt and the frame of the car, hook the battary back up and bump the ignition to get the bolt to break. it's on there tight. good Luck!!
sdpatt
Sr. SHO Engr.
Ask for the Wells SU242 from AutoZone or AutoZone.com for $42.99. if this sensor fails, it can set a memory code. The CE light only stays lit for a split second when the sensor fails, but the codes is stored.
pjtoledo
'ol man in the SHO
Hey Olympic, thanks for sending all that cold air down here!!!! This morning it was short-sleeves and now it's snowing with a howling wind!!!!! This winter has been so warm that some flowers are already blooming, AND NOW THIS COLD STUFF!!! By the way , what weight oil do you use way up there in Canada?
Perry Toledo,Ohio
<small>[ March 09, 2002, 09:18 PM: Message edited by: pjtoledo ]</small>
Perry Toledo,Ohio
<small>[ March 09, 2002, 09:18 PM: Message edited by: pjtoledo ]</small>
olympic
SHO Member
LOL...your welcome! We had very nice weather in Jan and up to mid Feb but it's been -30 or lower every night for the past couple weeks. We still don't have a foot of snow(total) this winter. It's going to be a major drought if we dont get some serious rain this spring. It never rained after last spring so all the ponds and dugouts are dry and the ground is dry as far as you can dig!!
The majority of people up here dont know the facts and run 10w30 all year round. I've seeen dino 10w30 at -30 or 40F and it's like honey that's been in the fridge...it's solid!! My SHO will be getting Mobil 1 5w30 year round unless I encounter oil burning or leaks. I run a fleet of taxi's and I run cheapo 10w30 spring through fall and Formula Shell 0w30 semi-synthetic in the winter. It pours right out of the bottle even on the coldest days. I do follow religious 3000-3500 mile oil and filter changes though. On my cars that's about once a month. I've seen cars go 600,000 miles and more running nothing but the cheapest oil and filters so todays oils are pretty good.
The majority of people up here dont know the facts and run 10w30 all year round. I've seeen dino 10w30 at -30 or 40F and it's like honey that's been in the fridge...it's solid!! My SHO will be getting Mobil 1 5w30 year round unless I encounter oil burning or leaks. I run a fleet of taxi's and I run cheapo 10w30 spring through fall and Formula Shell 0w30 semi-synthetic in the winter. It pours right out of the bottle even on the coldest days. I do follow religious 3000-3500 mile oil and filter changes though. On my cars that's about once a month. I've seen cars go 600,000 miles and more running nothing but the cheapest oil and filters so todays oils are pretty good.
Dan
New Member
You have to pull all that off the motor while ist's still in the car? Man that must suck, how long can I expect it to take to complete this task?
thanks,
Dan
thanks,
Dan
SHOemup
New Member
I managed to do the waterpump, CPS, accessory belts and timing belt in about 6 hours. give or take a half hour. I ran into some trouble with the crank damper, I didnt have a torque wrench powerful enough to take it off so i spent a lot of time trying ot muscle it off. I already explained the process i used in my last post on this topic. I believe the labor book from a garage says 4 and a half hours for the waterpump. I dont know how accurate it is, but reserve the whole day just in case. I didnt and was in my bro's garage at work til midnight. Hope this helps.
SHOemup
New Member
I managed to do the waterpump, CPS, accessory belts and timing belt in about 6 hours. give or take a half hour. I ran into some trouble with the crank damper, I didnt have a torque wrench powerful enough to take it off so i spent a lot of time trying ot muscle it off. I already explained the process i used in my last post on this topic. I believe the labor book from a garage says 4 and a half hours for the waterpump. I dont know how accurate it is, but reserve the whole day just in case. I didnt and was in my bro's garage at work til midnight. Hope this helps.
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