Tech Tip of the Day

[Dr.Evil]

I think this would be a cool idea. Everyday, post one of your best tips when working on your SHO, or any car for that matter. Like special techniques that you used that made the job go eaiser, special tools you made, etc. I think we could get a pretty big database built up and would save a lot of questions down and a lot of time down the road. I guess I will start:

Orgainzation is the key to a succesfull project. If everything is orgainzed, it will go much smoother.

Who's next?

 

[NIKOTONKS]

Great idea. If people are complaining the tech side of this site is going downhill, what better way to bring it back up?

On another note: got any pics of that kickass Mustang you got in your sig?

 

[NotSoSlowSHO]

Can I do the honors?


Tech tip:

When removing wheels, loosen lug nuts prior to lifting vehicle thumbs_u

 

[RStalveyARFF]

The tool I never work on a car without: 3lb Sledge.

Tools I've made myself:
strut top nut removal tool
custom extension to remove the IAB valve bolts
clutch alignment tool
transmission jack
transverse engine support

Methods I've learned that work:
When popping a ball joint out, throw a crescent wrench on the flat spot of the strut rod with a pipe over it, and a 24mm DEEP socket with ratchet (pipe on the ratchet) on the nut by the control arm. Open up the pinching point on the knuckle alittle. push down on both pipes at the same time, and POP! it's out. If it's being stubborn, hold both pipes down, and use the 3lb sledge to rap on the socket.

When removing an axle, use my above procedure, but before that, make sure to loosen the axle nut while the car is on the ground.

Metrics are your best friend...

An Acetylene torch is your next best friend when PB blaster fails

 

[heath94]

If at first you don't succeed ... try a bigger hammer!

 

[projectSHO89]

Here's my tip for working with the IAB valve.

Once removed (or before installation of a new one), cut a notch in the housing for the lower mounting bolt so that it is a slot instead of a hole.

This will allow you to slide the valve onto the bolt and will only drive you a little crazy when tightening the lower bolt with your 5mm long arm Allen. One or two turns with the Allen is sufficient if you preset the bolt position before inserting the valve body's slot under the bolt head/washer combo.

Steve

 

[BIGSHOMIKE]

When I did my IAB I tied 2 rubber bands together like handcuffs, one end goes around the wrist and the other around the bolt. I took the ISC off first which allowed me to turn the IAB back towards the firewall far enough I could get my hand to the lower screw, however I like Steves idea better, wish I would have thought of that before I put it back together.

 

[SHOZ123]

When bleeding the brakes have the motor running. The power assist makes things soooo much easier. especially in the rear.

 

[Don likes SHO]

I keep a set of chemically treated (diaper wipe style) cleaning towlettes in my car at all times:
Simple Green for cleaning the engine (pop hood to humble friends with car payments and give a quick swipe).

And leather conditioner for quick removal of spills on the leather. I get a few wierd looks when I start primping my ride whenever theres a long wait at the drive through

Around here they can be had for $2-3 each at "Big Lots" (cheaper than Wal-Mart)

 

[twr]

My tech tip - make sure you have $500 stashed somewhere so you can afford the parts to fit it.

 

[jelloslug]

Here is my little hard earned tip: When changing you sub frame bushings, make sure you unhook the connections to the DIS (or even better remove it all together) or you will crunch the end of it when you lower the rear of the subframe.

 

[ScotSHO]

Big ass hose clamps work good on rattling heat shields. My 94 Ranger has it's first exhaust mod now!

 

[AREA 91]

If you are having trouble keeping your cables on your shifter, a zippie tie is the way to go. pizza

 

[haydenm315]

heath94:
If at first you don't succeed ... try a bigger hammer!

bigger ratchets or extensions might also be necessary.

 

[haydenm315]

When doing valve lash adjustments, drill a hole through the bucket holder tool and tie a string to it. That thing will pop out atleast once while doing the adjustment. It happened to me while I wasn't looking because I was trying to find a shim. Took me a lot of time to find it sitting on the top of the subframe somewhere.

 

[haydenm315]

Dr.Evil
I think this would be a cool idea. Everyday, post one of your best tips when working on your SHO, or any car for that matter. Like special techniques that you used that made the job go eaiser, special tools you made, etc. I think we could get a pretty big database built up and would save a lot of questions down and a lot of time down the road.

Good idea man. I've got a few things to say.

I guess I will start:

Orgainzation is the key to a succesfull project. If everything is orgainzed, it will go much smoother.

Who's next?

Organization is usually assumed, but rarely followed. It's easy to lose stuff, and easy to be disorganized. Home Depot has a toolbox for sale. It's only $20, and is pretty much a normal plastic toolbox, but longer and deeper than any of my current ones. The cool thing sits on top. It also has 2 nice sized boxes with clear tops and many compartments that snap in the top.
This box is perfect for holding the parts that are likely to get lost. If you are a novice, I recommend labeling everything. I went far as labeling each of the coolant hoses with duct tape and a sharpie. I really want one of those professional toolboxes with drawers, but don't have the money to spend around $300 on a mechanics toolbox.

 

[haydenm315]

When doing a valve lash adjustment, keep a small hammer handy. I found it difficult at times to depress the bucket with the tool provided. I'm quite a strong guy with the hand strength of a wrestler, and it can be very hard to get that tool in there, depending on what valve you're on. To ease insertion of the bucket depresser tool, use a small hammer to tap on the curved part of the tool, while you press down on it to depress the bucket. By tapping on the tool, it slides in quite nicely with less of a chance of slipping out. It's also important to make sure the notch on the bucket is facing outwards. It's easy to pop the shim out by sticking the pick in the slot to lift the shim out. You can't rotate the bucket with the tool in there very well. Be careful when using a hammer You don't want damage stuff. Things are expensive under the hood.

 

[SHOZ123]

Pre-fill the oil filter before putting it on.

In the winter (or anytime) when the engine is cold push the gas pedal all the way down and crank until the oil light goes out. Then let up on the gas and the engine will start with oil pressure on it.

 

[Dr.Evil]

aright I have a new one, more of a rant though. do everything in your power to not leave you car at a shop. if you take it in for repairs, make sure you watch it.
Example 1. droped it off at a paint shop to paint my bumper & grill. well the morons left it on the car (how hard is it to remove 8 freakin nuts?) and when I got it back, the whole car was covered in a nice white paint film, which did not wash off. spent hours buffing it out, and they did a ****** job on the paint to boot.
example 2. Had to get some tires mounted, and they discovered a bad cv joint, so I had them install a new one. well I get it back and my header wrap on my y pipe it trashed, and the exhaust is rattling on the rear subframe. someone hit a curb or something which F'd it all up. Thankfully my friends dad works there and he fixed me up with new wrap and re-adjusted the exhaust. I hate leaving me car with other people.

Anyway, back to the topic...

when changing the rear spark plugs, use a spark plug socket (deep) on a long extension. Put a swivel at the end of that, then a medium extension. (3/8 drive) sure is easier than removing the intake. Also, you CAN change the wires with the intake on...just pop plastic clips that hold the wires to the coilpack off and snake the ends through. Then just slip them back on and your good to go.

Lets see if we can get this post going again, shall we?

 

[JoesSHO]

I've found that a 4' section of small diameter foam pipe insulation (not split down the side) shoved into the end of my shop vac works great for vacuuming out oil from the plug wells. It fits right over the plugs all the way to the bottom, and seals up pretty much to the walls of the heads. It's also long and flexible enough to snake arounds the back side of the motor and get those, too... Spray some aerosol cleaner into the wells with the wires off, vac out, and good as new for plug removal!

Great topic! thumb

<small>[ February 13, 2004, 07:05 AM: Message edited by: JoesSHO ]</small>