Tackling my first CPS replacement tomorrow on ATX.

[SHOfun 93]

Any tips/pointers? I was wondering a few things too....

I have watched Mark's video, and was wondering, do I need to pull off any of the pulleys after I remove the serpentine belts and bump the starter?


Where can I get a good angled feeler gauge? (forgot to get one today for gapping the CPS)


I am going to pull the intake completely off in order to have more room to work with ( I have done that 20 times or more) and after that, do I go after the timing belt covers? ( this after removing the battery and other stuff that is in the way (PS reservior for one))


I have bought the harmonic balancer pull tool from Harbor Freight, but now how do I use it?

I know...been on shoforum for 5 years now and this is the first front 60k you have tried/completed Jeremy? Pretty pathetic.......


Thanks for any help/tips you guys can give!

 

[Dr. Tweak]

Have you check out the SHOPP website?

Email me at [email protected] and I'll email you my phone number, that way if you get stuck on something tomorrow just give me a call.

You seriously don't need to take the intake off. Waste of time.

Yes you need to remove all of the pulleys.

With the puller, basically there's one big bolt in the middle, this goes on the end of your crank (not into your crank), then there are two smaller bolts on each side that go into the pulley itself, and as you tighten up the large bolt it pulls the pullley off.

You can get a feeler guage from any parts store. You don't need the angle type, the straight one works just fine.

 

[SHOfun 93]

Thanks Josh! I go to pick up the car at 11! PM me your phone number here if you get a chance....

 

[sdpatt]

The AutoZone repair guide for the timing belt cahnge is shown below. Most of the removals required to access the CPS are in that procedure.

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/0b/f7/88/0900823d800bf788.jsp

Here is a Forum topic regarding this job.
http://www.shoforum.com/showpost.php?p=66759&postcount=6

Additional information regarding the CPS are that the two Phillips head screws that mount the CPS can be easily stripped if you do not get the screw driver securely attached. I use a Phillips bit in a 6-point 1/4" socket turned by a 1/4" driver. This allows more than enough torque and the ability to press hard nito the screws. Don't lose them, they are stainless steel and cannot be picked up witha magnet.

The gap between the CPS and the shutter vanes should be .03". I check the gap on all three vanes to make sure that none have been bent. I turn the crank with the damper just slipped back on the crank.

Route the CPS wires forward of the fuel rails - there is much more room. I thread a speaker wire down through the selected path and pull the upper connector up through the wires and fuel rails. You can unclip the white snap from the copnnector to make it smaller in cross section.

Use masking tape to temporarily tie the ground plug back against the small diameter of the wire. These actions make the connector smaller in cross section and allow a much easier pull up through the water pump, wires and fuel rails.

You do not need to remove the intake manifold. That is a much greater effort than required. One thing I have learned is not to disturb parts that are working.

 

[SHOfun 93]

Thanks for the help guys! If I get stuck...I'll be back!

 

[SHOfun 93]

Okay, few things...a buddy told me that I NEED to get a 6 point socket for the crank bolt, correct? Also..a strap wrench is "required" according to your SHOPP website, but will it if I am not needing to pull off any pulleys besides the crank?

 

[SHOfun 93]

** Update**

OK, here is how far I am now.....

I have all the timing covers off, the CPS is unscrewed (thanks for the tip on that Scotty) and the crank bolt reinstalled in order to turn the motor over.

There is quite a bit of oil around the front main seal...I might as well recommend a replacement for this as well to the owner that I am doing the job for..

I DO have a question about this timing belt tensioner on the ATX. I can't remember exactly how to get it undone, but I know it involves a c-clamp and an allen head wrench. The SHOPP writeup is for the 3.0 and doesn't address this issue exactly.

Also, as far as aligning the timing on the belt before removal. Do I just turn the crank until the dots on the cam gears align with the timing marks? Or do I have to KEEP turning until the marks on the belt line up with the other 2 marks too!

I probably should go ahead and replace the timing belt for him as well. This is the original timing belt at 132k and it looks tired. Although it is hard to tell wear on a timing belt, no?

What, if any marks to I need to have lined up on the crank vane area BEFORE I pull the timing belt off?

 

[Dr. Tweak]

Definetely replace the front main seal, that's the cause of the CPS going bad. Also check around the 3 cap seals to see if they are leaking.

I would replace the belt for sure, along with all the other stuff listed on SHOPP if it needs it.

Do a search for ATX tensioner for the instructions, and while you're at it, take some pics of each step, and send them to me 640x480 resolution, at [email protected] and I'll add them to SHOPP.

Now, for the timing belt lineup. I did cover that in SHOPP, are the instructions not clear?

Basically, turn the crank until the three dots line up, don't worry about the lines on the belt. Then you can take the belt off, and exercise caution around the rear cam sprocket, it is in the compression stage. You can then remove the belt. When you replace the belt, make sure that all three dots are still lined up, and then put the belt on so that the three lines line up.

You have a PM.

Also another note on that, it isn't required to line up anything before you remove the belt, it just makes life easier since you line have to line up each pulley before installing the belt.

 

[SHOfun 93]

My bad J...

I didn't scroll down far enough on SHOPP to get the pics seen for the timing belt. I presently have the old timing belt off, the old front main seal, I have the new CPS wiring run and am awaiting the new timing belt and front main seal from Oreillys special order on Sat morn. So I am just waiting for today.

I will indeed shoot some pics of how I figured out the timing belt tensioner on the atx ( I opened the Chiltons ) And it wasn't bad after I just followed the steps.

The only thing I need to buy now today is a segment of PVC in order to "seed' the front main seal in the morning. My wife has been killing me with all the extra tools I have bought in the past couple days! But I will need them anyway to replace the front main seal in the 92. I guess the main difference between the atx and mtx seems to be the engine damper as seen on the website. I can follow your steps verbatim with that one...

Thanks for the PM! I think I should be okay from here especially with the pics that you have already uploaded and the pics I will shoot will help other ATX owners with questions on their tensioners!


I'll keep ya'll posted on Saturday!

Also when I pulled the Codes, there wasn't any clear cut codes related to the CPS...will it sometimes go bad without setting a code in the PCM? The guy said it runs great for 30 minutes or so, dies, then 30 minutes later it starts right back up like nothing happened. He has already changed the fuel pump, fuel filter, FPR, and had the top half of all the seals done. To the tune of $2000 at the dealer ( poor old guy got taken to the cleaners). I am trying to help him out for a small fee plus parts since he already has been soured so far in his sho experience....just curious on the codes is all.....


Oh yeah...and his water pump (as seen in the pics) is also brand new..what dealer would do that and not the rest of the front 60k? SHEESH!

 

[SHOfun 93]

Success!

Car has been idling for aboutr 30 minutes now with no codes and is purring like a kitten! Thanks James and Scott for the help!

BTW, James, you have an email with the pics for the ATX timing belt tensioner attached......

 

[Dr. Tweak]

Why do people always call me James?

LOL!

 

[SHOfun 93]

I'm sorry JOSH

Now there are 2 Josh's in the sho community that are kickin *** and takin names!