Suspension Install Review!

[MI-SHOFEAR]

Just got around to putting on my new suspension parts on the SHO today. Here is what I did:
Monroe Sensatrac Struts (4)
Strut Mounts (4)
Strut Bearings (2)
Moog Cargo Coils Gen2 (4)
26mm Rear Swaybar
Left 24mm Front Swaybar in
Windstar Front Endlinks
HD Rear Endlinks
New TRP Bushings F&R
Rear Strut Tower Brace
Next week, Front Strut Tower Brace
Next Month, Sub-Frame Connectors

I Started by cutting the Moog CC's, 1.5 Coils in the front and 1 Coil in the rear. It took forever using a die grinder in 20 degree weather. I assembled the complete strut assembly before I went to the SHOp to install them.
I began in the front, let me tell you guys, IT SUCKED . It was really hard to get the complete assembly out. I ended up heating the springs to make them collaps because I didnt bring my compresser, DUH. The rear was WORSE. I began to remove the Motorcraft (Stock 170,000mi) struts and while I was taking out the pinch bolt I saw something I hoped I would never see, THE SPINDLE WAS CRACKED, BAD. I thought that was the end, I am out of money. Luckly, my buddy Les was working and he has been a welder for 40 years. He looked at it and said no biggie, and had it welded up good as new in about an hour. After I stoped sweating I fianially got the rears done. Im about 5 hours in. The rear Swaybar wasnt bad, had to loosen the gas tank filler tube and take off the exhaust clamps, but it wasnt a huge deal. I bought a 22mm Sway for the front but I noticed I had a bigger (24mm) bar allready, so I thought I would try that. Then I did the new Bushings and Endlinks. Last I installed the rear STB, wasnt easy either, not alot of room in the trunk with subs back there.

The job took 7 hours total. Not the funnest saturday I have had, but it was worth it.
I drove the car around the empty lot and it handles awsome, I love it. The moogs really do a good job. I wish I would have cut them shorter though. 2 in front and 1.5 in rear. But Ill live. The car is a beast on the highway too, Its like the car is on rails. Cant wait for the front STB and the SFC's.

I give the Moog CC/Monroe Setup an 8 out of 10. I wish it was lower, that would mean buying koni's or tokicos. But for the price they are awsome, a side by side comparo from stock is cool, big difference. Moogs are alot more tightly wound(more coils).

Feel free to ask any questions if I forgot something.

Jeff

 

[MI-SHOFEAR]

I forgot to add. I find it very hard to kick out my rearend, which I like. The car is really nice even on salty roads and crap tires. But my question is, Will I gain anything fron going with the 22mm Front Bar?

Jeff

 

[NoSlo]

You'll get a tail-happy car that will want to fishtail when you have to make a panic stop on salty roads and crap tires. The smaller sway bar would get you better acceleration through corners with less wheel spin, but I would save that for summer.
I took my car out with it's 23 front/26mm rear anti sway bar in the snow and had some fun in parking lots. Any acceleration and it would push through turns because of less traction up front, but just coasting through corners the car was almost neutral, just a bit of oversteer. Not like the sway bars are doing much in the snow though, in a .1g turn.

 

[AutoSHO]

The 22mm FSB will improve corner exit traction quite a bit - and also improve the balance of the car to make it push (understeer) considerably less. My car is very neutral and can be provoked into oversteer if I want to.

 

[HighSpeed]

Lets see some pics of the tire to fenderwell gap.

So you would recommend 2 coils up front and 1.5 coils in the rears cut?

What size of tires are you currently running?

Thanks

 

[MI-SHOFEAR]

That is what i would do if i had to do it again, but I was told today that if i drop the strut in the knuckle it would sit the way I want it too. Im gonna try that first. I have 215/??/16's right now, Stock slicers. I will have pics soon.

 

[Shoaz]

That is what i would do if i had to do it again, but I was told today that if i drop the strut in the knuckle it would sit the way I want it too. Im gonna try that first. I have 215/??/16's right now, Stock slicers. I will have pics soon.

If you mean you're going to bypass the tab on the strut through which the pinch bolt normally goes so that the pinch bolt is no longer inside the hole in the tab, I'd just say that this is a very dangerous thing to do, IMHO. If a bump or some jolt moves the knuckle further up the strut you could wind up with a sudden loss of control, which is generally a bad thing.

Those tabs are there for a reason. They're your friend, don't ignore them.

 

[AutoSHO]

You can't drop the front struts at all in the knuckle - you will tear up your CV boots quickly if you do.

 

[MI-SHOFEAR]

This is what I understand. Konis will tear up the boot because they sit lower in the knuckle. Monroes will not. There are also 2 holes in the tab. You normally use the lower one, but if you slide the strut down so it lines up with the upper hole and drill it out, you still have the tab there. So, Im still safe IMO. I know some of you have been doing this for alot longer than I have and I do take you advice to heart, but this is one of those conflicts in interest. I dont think I will have any problems, but if I do I will move the strut back to its normal position.

Jeff

 

[NotSoSlowSHO]

Monroes only give you about 1/2 an inch. And no, you dont just use a different set of holes. You trim the tabs.

Also, the tabs do not support the weight of the car. They are there only for alignment purposes when installing the strut into the knuckle.

 

[mosho93]

Good to hear that it handles nicely. Any pictures of it or possiby it next to a stock sho.

 

[Electricat]

Also, the tabs do not support the weight of the car. They are there only for alignment purposes when installing the strut into the knuckle.

True...but if the strut pinch bolt loosened up a bit for some reason, the tab would keep the strut in/near it's position, at least for a while. Unlikely scenario, but there is a safety factor there that people should at least consider, IMO.

 

[MI-SHOFEAR]

Here are some pics





Ground to top of fender
Front: 27"
Rear: 26"

 

[NotSoSlowSHO]

True...but if the strut pinch bolt loosened up a bit for some reason, the tab would keep the strut in/near it's position, at least for a while. Unlikely scenario, but there is a safety factor there that people should at least consider, IMO.

People have trouble LOOSENING the pinch bolts when removing the struts. They dont come apart on their own. Even my rust free '89 had "frozen" pinch bolts.

 

[F-22 Raptor SHO]

Let me see if I understand you correctly: it took you 7 hours to do the entire job which included a swaybar install and cutting your springs? Man I should fire the guys that did mine.

18 hours to do my set up. Two broken rear pinch bolts, 2 stuck rear struts, 4 siezed swaybar endlinks.

Rust free car from the rust best....riiiiiiight.

 

[Shoaz]

Let me see if I understand you correctly: it took you 7 hours to do the entire job which included a swaybar install and cutting your springs? Man I should fire the guys that did mine.

No doubt. Ask for your money back.

:laugh_ti:

 

[MI-SHOFEAR]

Let me see if I understand you correctly: it took you 7 hours to do the entire job which included a swaybar install and cutting your springs? Man I should fire the guys that did mine.

18 hours to do my set up. Two broken rear pinch bolts, 2 stuck rear struts, 4 siezed swaybar endlinks.

Rust free car from the rust best....riiiiiiight.

Huh, I thought I did bad. I guess not. And I tourched all mt old endlinks so the didnt put up much of a fight. And one of my rear pinch bolts was broken I used an air chizel on that. Sorry you had a HUGE bill on yours, come see me next time, I could use the work lol.

Jeff

 

[SHOZ123]

True...but if the strut pinch bolt loosened up a bit for some reason, the tab would keep the strut in/near it's position, at least for a while. Unlikely scenario, but there is a safety factor there that people should at least consider, IMO.

That tab will fold up in a heart beat. BTDT No way is it for any support reasons. I cut them off of my new struts before installing them.

 

[Cobraii976]

Well so far there are atlest two cars it's been done to with no ill effects. And now one 90 with a saggy rear end that went the other way we lowered the knuckle on the strut and get it to sit right again. And it still rides right. The tab and the two holes the larger pinch bolt hole and the smaller hole are just a gauge. you can't go past the small hole without the strut hitting the boot. And with Koni's installed you can't even go to that hole, beacuse the bolt that holds the insert in is lower then the strut base itself.

As for the pinch bolt comming loose if it does you have much bigger problems then the locating tab. I've had my pinch bolts out 6 times in the last year and I still have to put my 3/4 drive 28 inch long snap on ratchet with a bar on it to break them loose.

 

[NotSoSlowSHO]

Just as I said, the pinch bolts DO NOT come out on their own.

I plan on removing the tabs on my Tokicos for my new SHO, and using a hose clamp on the strut as a guide when installing them. Im already planning on chopping some coils off of a set of MOOGs, but I want the little extra drop