The stock SHO fuel lines will support over 500hp as well.
supercharger/turbo 411
- Thread starter kevingotashotoo
- Start date
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celticsam
New Member
OK, I'm going to bench build my setup for you guys to tear apart (yes, I'd much rather find a problem with my design here than after I fab everything up). I am basing my system on the SPS? system. The exhaust remains stock up to the reducer pipe, which is replaced. The exhaust is removed from the stock muffler back. A T3/T4 hybrid is placed where the muffler used to reside along with a 3 quart accumulator tank and a pump (pump type is in the air, but I am looking at a diesel fuel pump from a GMC bus 8V71 setup...self priming). Stainless lines from a T below the oil pressure sending unit to the turbo and from the pump to the oil pan. A TurboXS type H blowoff valve set to 10#'s (the integral waste gate is currently set at 8#'s, and a 1/2# loss of pressure is anticipated from the turbo to the intake) will vent to atmosphere. The MAF will stay approximately where it is. 3" piping from the turbo to the intake. 3.5 inch single exhaust out the passanger side, with a 3.5" dummy exhaust acting as the intake from the other side. Air cleaner will be sealed and accessed from the current spare tire well on the drivers side (looking at a box from a 3000GT currently, and remember, this is a SHO powered wagon), through an air bypass valve (shuts when water is present and vents in air in this case from the spare tire well, otherwise is sealed), then 3.5 inch to the turbo. Of course, a splash shield and a heat shield will be around the turbo and related mechanicals. Finally, due to prodding from the list (correct prodding, I have to add), I will probably go with 30# Ford motorsport injectors for now, and tweecer when it becomes available again (not available until January 6 for some reason...) Other supporting hardware includes an upgraded fuel pump (type unknown at this time) and pressure regulator.
That's it. Tear it up if you'd like, but PLEASE offer alternatives to incorrect or poorly planned items. Thanks.
Neil
That's it. Tear it up if you'd like, but PLEASE offer alternatives to incorrect or poorly planned items. Thanks.
Neil
Sounds pretty good, but remember, you want your BOV to stay shut except @ lift throtle. So you match the spring pressure to the amount of vacuum your engine makes @ idle, not how much pressure you want the system to make.
Also, the 30# injectors will be a limiting factor pretty soon. Assuming an ideal BSFC of 0.50 (likely higher than that with a FI car), 30# injectors will be @ 80% duty cycle @ around 300 hp. I would get the 48lb injectors, and you will have lots of room to grow.
Also, the 30# injectors will be a limiting factor pretty soon. Assuming an ideal BSFC of 0.50 (likely higher than that with a FI car), 30# injectors will be @ 80% duty cycle @ around 300 hp. I would get the 48lb injectors, and you will have lots of room to grow.
or even 36-42lb/hrs. 30 will limit you.
Off Road SHO
Moderator
Celticsam,
If you're going to put in an oil pump to feed the turbo, don't tap into the motors oil passageway. That will waste precious oil pressure that you will not be able to afford. Put your new oil pump close to the oil pan and use at least a -8 or -10 to feed oil to the turbo housing, only neck it down to a -6 or -4 at the turbo. The outlet should be a larger, low restriction -10 also. Run an additional oil cooler also (oil to air type), but keep it as close to the filter as possible, and use non swelling hose (steel braid covered if you can afford it) to keep the pressure drop to a minimum.
Tom
If you're going to put in an oil pump to feed the turbo, don't tap into the motors oil passageway. That will waste precious oil pressure that you will not be able to afford. Put your new oil pump close to the oil pan and use at least a -8 or -10 to feed oil to the turbo housing, only neck it down to a -6 or -4 at the turbo. The outlet should be a larger, low restriction -10 also. Run an additional oil cooler also (oil to air type), but keep it as close to the filter as possible, and use non swelling hose (steel braid covered if you can afford it) to keep the pressure drop to a minimum.
Tom
celticsam
New Member
Rear mounted turbo runs cooler, the long intake tube acts as a (very weak) intercooler, and the lower temperatures (STS..that was it! says their turbos run around 500 degrees) means longer turbo life and higher possible boost before detonation. Plus, and i am splitting hairs here, for the visual emissions inspection, any modification made after the cats is legal. Its just an exotic cat back exhaust. Oh, and correct, the pump is to return oil to the engine, not feed it to the turbo.
Do you all really think I need to go with 42# injectors? I will have to buy the set anyway, but 42# just seemd like overkill.
Neil
Do you all really think I need to go with 42# injectors? I will have to buy the set anyway, but 42# just seemd like overkill.
Neil
Harleyf150
New Member
I am in the process of building a turbo 95 mtx sho and so far it has cost me about 1200 in all parts including turbo,bov,wastegate,oil lines,flanges,piping, and injectors, luckily i already ahd a 80mm maf, all the stuff is brand name garett and hks greddy tial, the turbo is a t04e,50mm bov,and 40mm externall wastegate, this car is not going to be intercooled and run at 12psi contolled by a apexi safc
On stock pistons anyway. You can get away with 12psi on an SC car without too much trouble, but with the boost characteristics of a your turbo, and the fact that heatsink is MUCH MUCH higher for a turbo's turbine compared to an SC, then yeah, 12psi is a bit high for non-IC'd, unless you ALWAYS use premium fuel and your tune is SPOT-ON. Besides, @ 12psi you will be past the point that the 80mm electronics can measure air, and you will be in 3rd gear eating tq range. Keep it @ 10psi and your internals and trans will last a little bit longer.
adidas_kn
LOWSHO
Okay Most us us know about the kit I am designing if not read my post Named "Different Turbo Idea". What do you think I should go with for supporting mods?
I already have the following in the soon to order category.
48# modified Accel injectors
Modified(bored) polished fuel rails
255LPH in-tank pump
SHOnut adjustable FPR
What I am wondering about is what tuning I should use.
I currently have a SCT chip from FPS and want to send it back to Doug Lewis for an FI tune for starters and then take it o a dyno bash up in Germany with a top SCT tuner that is flying in to do the tuning. The car will be dyno'ed and retuned off of the base tuning from FPS.
Or should I buy the Tweecer R/T and have one of SHOforums greatest tuners (YamahaSHO, Toolman, Axianator, etc...) help out if they are willing. Possibly a base tune off of Toolmans tune would be perfect as my setup will be very similar to his.
MY engine is torn apart righ now to be checked out and gone through. I am pondering buying some low CR (8.5:1) Weisco pistons in the 3.2-3.3L size and TotalSeal Gapless rings. I am for sure getting some new crank and rod bearings also.
BTW, Toolman can you PM me with the sources for your 62-1 turbo and other parts? I will probably get all the same parts because they are tried and true.
thanx all.
Jerimie
I already have the following in the soon to order category.
48# modified Accel injectors
Modified(bored) polished fuel rails
255LPH in-tank pump
SHOnut adjustable FPR
What I am wondering about is what tuning I should use.
I currently have a SCT chip from FPS and want to send it back to Doug Lewis for an FI tune for starters and then take it o a dyno bash up in Germany with a top SCT tuner that is flying in to do the tuning. The car will be dyno'ed and retuned off of the base tuning from FPS.
Or should I buy the Tweecer R/T and have one of SHOforums greatest tuners (YamahaSHO, Toolman, Axianator, etc...) help out if they are willing. Possibly a base tune off of Toolmans tune would be perfect as my setup will be very similar to his.
MY engine is torn apart righ now to be checked out and gone through. I am pondering buying some low CR (8.5:1) Weisco pistons in the 3.2-3.3L size and TotalSeal Gapless rings. I am for sure getting some new crank and rod bearings also.
BTW, Toolman can you PM me with the sources for your 62-1 turbo and other parts? I will probably get all the same parts because they are tried and true.
thanx all.
Jerimie
NotSoSlowSHO
Gas is $$ WALK!
adidas_kn said:
Personally, I would skip any real engine work. Unless you have cash to burn.
In addition to your list, I would add the following:
MAF
Clutch
Trans
Motor mounts
A selection of gauges
Tuning
And depending upon the amount of boost you are running, an intercooler.
adidas_kn
LOWSHO
Oh yeah I forgot those. the MAF I have is a 75mm Bullet but will sell that to get a 90mm Lightning MAF, adapter plate and wiring adaptor.
I already have reinforced engine mounts F/R, Quaifed, Cryo'ed, shimmed tranny, new half shafts, enough suspension mods to embarass plenty of SHO owners (every part avail.), 13" front and 11.6" rear brakes, every single sensor, gasket and seal has been replaced, almost every hose has been replaced, The clutch is a stage 2 unit but will be swapped for a stronger unit before reassembly. Gauges will be added upon completion, An intercooler is on my list as mentioned in my topic on my turbo design.
Need to know about my tuning options.
I already have reinforced engine mounts F/R, Quaifed, Cryo'ed, shimmed tranny, new half shafts, enough suspension mods to embarass plenty of SHO owners (every part avail.), 13" front and 11.6" rear brakes, every single sensor, gasket and seal has been replaced, almost every hose has been replaced, The clutch is a stage 2 unit but will be swapped for a stronger unit before reassembly. Gauges will be added upon completion, An intercooler is on my list as mentioned in my topic on my turbo design.
Need to know about my tuning options.
NotSoSlowSHO
Gas is $$ WALK!
Tweecer and a Wideband 02 would suit you just fine.
adidas_kn
LOWSHO
I have cash but I want this bad boy to last a long time under heavy abuse. I have the engine on an engine stand torn down to the short block for a thorough check up.
Check my Cardomain page for complet parts list and tear down. I still need to update it.
Check my Cardomain page for complet parts list and tear down. I still need to update it.
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