ab4774
New Member
Hi all,
I just wanted to give you an update, and some results. A while back I smashed my DIS module on the RH side roll damper while taking a fast corner, and hitting a bump in the process (trying out my new Intrax springs
)
Anyway it turned out to be a combo of problems. First off the front and rear motor mounts where a little hairy looking. That had not failed but looked tired. I modified the front one to eliminate some of the engine roll up. Essentially what I did was ground and cut out the stock safety pin. Then I got some small C-channel steel from Lowes and MIG welded it place of the stock pin. I clamped, and then a bit more, the C-channel right to the top of the bracket that bolts to the engine. This greatly reduces the tendency of the engine to pick up the front of it self when accelerating hard. I essentially did the same to the rear, but made a few shims to fill in the gap between the rubber block and the part of the mount that bolts to the subframe. The shims help keep the rubber block from being sheared alot under acceleration.
As you may have figured out, I don’t like to shell out a lot of cash for after market parts if I can make something similar. Hence, I decided to make my own solid subframe mounts. I initially thought of machining my own Al mounts in my dad’s lathe, but opted for black iron pipe. I used 3” schedule 40 pipe for the lower part of the mount, 2” for the part that passes through the subframe, and 3/8” as a guide for the bolt that passes through the subframe. I then used ¼ mild steel for end caps, and a middle spacer. After MIG welding it all up, I bolted them to the subframe with ¼ grade 8 bolts. All in all 4 subframe connectors for under 60 bucks
The subframe connectors are sweet. They eliminated more engine movement, and the steering wheel is snappier. The car feels more solid. The “play” and “squishiness” that was in the steering wheel is gone, it is nice and crisp. Furthermore the car doesn’t seem to wander down the road, and it launches ALOT better out of the hole. The only downer is some interior resonance at idle and up to 1200 rpm. After that it’s smooth and quite. The tone in the interior is low (not buzzy), and almost sounds like a bit louder exhaust. Nothing like the ashtray or cup holder rattles. I can definitely hear the engine more. Its not bad at all, it was exactly what I was looking for. The mods give you a BMW or VW feel in a Taurus!
All in all thanks for pointing me towards the subframe connectors and I would definitely recommend a solid set. Drop me an email for anymore info.
Thanks,
Adam Bruce
[email protected]
91 SHO
I just wanted to give you an update, and some results. A while back I smashed my DIS module on the RH side roll damper while taking a fast corner, and hitting a bump in the process (trying out my new Intrax springs
) Anyway it turned out to be a combo of problems. First off the front and rear motor mounts where a little hairy looking. That had not failed but looked tired. I modified the front one to eliminate some of the engine roll up. Essentially what I did was ground and cut out the stock safety pin. Then I got some small C-channel steel from Lowes and MIG welded it place of the stock pin. I clamped, and then a bit more, the C-channel right to the top of the bracket that bolts to the engine. This greatly reduces the tendency of the engine to pick up the front of it self when accelerating hard. I essentially did the same to the rear, but made a few shims to fill in the gap between the rubber block and the part of the mount that bolts to the subframe. The shims help keep the rubber block from being sheared alot under acceleration.
As you may have figured out, I don’t like to shell out a lot of cash for after market parts if I can make something similar. Hence, I decided to make my own solid subframe mounts. I initially thought of machining my own Al mounts in my dad’s lathe, but opted for black iron pipe. I used 3” schedule 40 pipe for the lower part of the mount, 2” for the part that passes through the subframe, and 3/8” as a guide for the bolt that passes through the subframe. I then used ¼ mild steel for end caps, and a middle spacer. After MIG welding it all up, I bolted them to the subframe with ¼ grade 8 bolts. All in all 4 subframe connectors for under 60 bucks
The subframe connectors are sweet. They eliminated more engine movement, and the steering wheel is snappier. The car feels more solid. The “play” and “squishiness” that was in the steering wheel is gone, it is nice and crisp. Furthermore the car doesn’t seem to wander down the road, and it launches ALOT better out of the hole. The only downer is some interior resonance at idle and up to 1200 rpm. After that it’s smooth and quite. The tone in the interior is low (not buzzy), and almost sounds like a bit louder exhaust. Nothing like the ashtray or cup holder rattles. I can definitely hear the engine more. Its not bad at all, it was exactly what I was looking for. The mods give you a BMW or VW feel in a Taurus!
All in all thanks for pointing me towards the subframe connectors and I would definitely recommend a solid set. Drop me an email for anymore info.
Thanks,
Adam Bruce
[email protected]
91 SHO
