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I can’t mount them to body. The strut hits the axle.Depends on what problem you are having...
They can be difficult if you don't have the spring compressed while installing. When I didn't do that once, I had to use a long breaker bar on the lower control arm and just barely got it down enough to get it in the pinch slot. Definitely will never do it that way again.
Then you need to make sure the pinch clamp is opened enough. Those are the two most common issues. Mounting to the frame typically is the easy part.
Depends on what problem you are having...
They can be difficult if you don't have the spring compressed while installing. When I didn't do that once, I had to use a long breaker bar on the lower control arm and just barely got it down enough to get it in the pinch slot. Definitely will never do it that way again.
Then you need to make sure the pinch clamp is opened enough. Those are the two most commo
I’m not sure. I got these struts from shosource kyb brand not sure if that helpsThere is supposed to be a height/alignment tab on the back side from the image where it sits on the pinch bolt. Is that in the same spot as the OEM?
I’m not sure. I got these struts from shosource kyb brand not sure if that helps. On the driver side the sway bar tab on the strut isn’t flat like the oem and passenger side.
There is supposed to be a height/alignment tab on the back side from the image where it sits on the pinch bolt. Is that in the same spot as the tab is
yes tab is on the Same spot. To me it seems a little too tall and the sway bar tab is flipped the other way.There is supposed to be a height/alignment tab on the back side from the image where it sits on the pinch bolt. Is that in the same spot as the OEM?
Shouldn’t have to use a compressed tool first time hearing this ?Do you have a tool to compress the spring while installing?
Depending on the situation, you may need to compress the spring to get the bottom to come up enough to sit at the original height and away from the axel. Once you have everything clamped down at the pinch side and bolts through the frame mount you can release the spring and then tighten down the top mounting bolts.Shouldn’t have to use a compressed tool first time hearing this ?
It’s possible but as it sits connected to the strut I can’t even put the lower ball joint int the arm. The arm pressed down as much as it can go it’s not enough. I think the strut won’t work or something is wrong.Depending on the situation, you may need to compress the spring to get the bottom to come up enough to sit at the original height and away from the axel. Once you have everything clamped down at the pinch side and bolts through the frame mount you can release the spring and then tighten down the top mounting bolts.
This is how it sits currently I can’t even put the ball joint into the control arm it’s fully maxed out and now th arm is creaking and it’s new. I don’t think these struts fit. It way too difficult to get anything on.Depending on the situation, you may need to compress the spring to get the bottom to come up enough to sit at the original height and away from the axel. Once you have everything clamped down at the pinch side and bolts through the frame mount you can release the spring and then tighten down the top mounting bolts.
I’m sure there is some fighting bc of the style but to me the aftermarket strut is too tall. Does that strut look right to you? New vs old ?I used to finagle a jack with maybe a piece of 2x4 or something under the strut to get it high enough to get back into the mounting point. Probably safer to use ratchet straps or spring compressor to compress it. If it is really close push/pry down a little on the knuckle get a little wiggle room. All my GenI-III SHO fronts were a bit of a struggle during install.
It looks right. The spring compression rate is the most important part. It needs to support a certain amount when the weight is fully on it.I’m sure there is some fighting bc of the style but to me the aftermarket strut is too tall. Does that strut look right to you? New vs old ?
Okay I will try it. This seems crazy to do all this lol. I do this everyday as my job my mind is blown lol these carsIt looks right. The spring compression rate is the most important part. It needs to support a certain amount when the weight is fully on it.
Getting the spring compressed is the key to getting it into the bottom whole. There are a couple of ways to approach this, but I just compress the spring its self using a tool like this.
https://a.co/d/02AMCeP
You may need to apply a little downward compression on the lower arm with a long bar. I used a crowbar myself.
Okay I will try it. This seems crazy to do all this lol. I do this everyday as my job my mind is blownIt looks right. The spring compression rate is the most important part. It needs to support a certain amount when the weight is fully on it.
Getting the spring compressed is the key to getting it into the bottom whole. There are a couple of ways to approach this, but I just compress the spring its self using a tool like this.
https://a.co/d/02AMCeP
You may need to apply a little downward compression on the lower arm with a long bar. I used a crowbar myself.
the springs are from sho source struts tooIt looks right. The spring compression rate is the most important part. It needs to support a certain amount when the weight is fully on it.
Getting the spring compressed is the key to getting it into the bottom whole. There are a couple of ways to approach this, but I just compress the spring its self using a tool like this.
https://a.co/d/02AMCeP
You may need to apply a little downward compression on the lower arm with a long bar. I used a crowbar myself.
I hope rears aren’t this bad lolI used to finagle a jack with maybe a piece of 2x4 or something under the strut to get it high enough to get back into the mounting point. Probably safer to use ratchet straps or spring compressor to compress it. If it is really close push/pry down a little on the knuckle get a little wiggle room. All my GenI-III SHO fronts were a bit of a struggle during install.