strut rod bushings-upgraded ones?

[htheduck]

Folks,
Where can I find upgraded strut rod bushings-if anyone sells them, please advise. If not please-advise on where to find rubber OEs at a reasonable price. Thanks.

-H

 

[Electricat]

Moog part #K8516 is the set for the fronts.....they are made of TPR, much firmer than the originals. Most auto parts stores or rockauto.com can get them, $20-25 for the set to do both front rods. Energy Suspension also makes some polyurethane ones, not sure on cost, anyplace that sells ES products could probably order them.

 

[vance580]

I got a whole set front and back from RCM automotive they are on ebay they also have a site but I dont remember what it is. I'm sure someone will come along with a link. He deals with other SHO parts as well such as gasket sets and such. Dont remember exact cost but I believe it was around 80 but dont quote me on that. This also reminds me I should install those fronts.....only installed the rear when i got mine

 

[60kmaintenance]

http://home.earthlink.net/~rcm_automotive/index.html

 

[htheduck]

Moog part #K8516 is the set for the fronts.....they are made of TPR, much firmer than the originals. Most auto parts stores or rockauto.com can get them, $20-25 for the set to do both front rods. Energy Suspension also makes some polyurethane ones, not sure on cost, anyplace that sells ES products could probably order them.

Many thanks for the part number! But my only problem since tackling this by myself is that I need a how to post to read-which I tried searching for and I cannot find. The K8516 is for the front-part of the rod, how about a part number for the rear?

I will continue to search, but if someone can briefly post/reference a how to-that would be appreciated. It seems the problem I'm having is the removal of the rear portion of these rods? I managed to unbolt the front bolt/washer/bushing...but could not access the inside bushing-since I couldn't figure out how to remove the rod.

TIA, Howard

 

[DHMag]

the rear bushing comes on the LCA unit.

you looking for info on how to remove the strut rod ?

 

[htheduck]

DHMag,
OH I see...one end of the LCA is the rear of the strut rod, copy. Are the following parts the arms or the bushings?? or the arms with the bushings installed?:

Moog K8577 (Driver side) or Moog K8579 (Passenger side)

Yes...I think I just found something that I can reference: http://www.shophoenixproject.com/balljoint/balljoint.htm

But feel free to post any tips/suggestions/how to advice...thanks.

 

[Electricat]

Moog also makes TPR bushings for the rear end of the strut rod, where it goes through the control arm, if you want to the replace the stock rubber one with TPR. It is a split bushing, one half goes in from each side. Moog number for this part is K8613, you will need to order 2. They are like $6 ea.

If you decide to do this, be warned....the original rubber bushing is tough to get out!!! After hacking at mine for a while with a knife and making little progress, I ended up taking the propane torch and setting the bushing on fire... Didn't need to let it totally burn, once it got nice and "gooey", it pushed out easily with a screwdriver.

 

[htheduck]

If you decide to do this, be warned....the original rubber bushing is tough to get out!!! After hacking at mine for a while with a knife and making little progress, I ended up taking the propane torch and setting the bushing on fire... Didn't need to let it totally burn, once it got nice and "gooey", it pushed out easily with a screwdriver.

I first read this and thought it was the original OE bushings that you tried to get out w/fire...OMG those were a bear! I was left in a situation where the rear OE bushing/rod was rusted to heck and now upon removal, the rod diameter is a little thinner than the middle section of the rod. Should I proceed with the new LCA preinstalled rubber bushing? Or go with the Blue MOOG 8613's? I'm afraid of the rod diameter being too thin now-with all that rust that crackled off.

Also, I CANNOT get the front rod (inner bushing & plate) off!!! AT first I couldn't figure out how it got there...next it's perhaps seized up! Any tips would be appreciated.

All in all I'm about 75% of the way there. I'm so happy! Thanks for all the help...you SHOForum guys/girls are the best!

 

[Electricat]

I first read this and thought it was the original OE bushings that you tried to get out w/fire...OMG those were a bear! I was left in a situation where the rear OE bushing/rod was rusted to heck and now upon removal, the rod diameter is a little thinner than the middle section of the rod. Should I proceed with the new LCA preinstalled rubber bushing? Or go with the Blue MOOG 8613's? I'm afraid of the rod diameter being too thin now-with all that rust that crackled off.

Also, I CANNOT get the front rod (inner bushing & plate) off!!! AT first I couldn't figure out how it got there...next it's perhaps seized up! Any tips would be appreciated.

All in all I'm about 75% of the way there. I'm so happy! Thanks for all the help...you SHOForum guys/girls are the best!

I ended up with the same problem with my strut rods...the ends were rusted way down. Although I didn't really have the cash, I ended up replacing them, because I thought it was bad enough that it would clunk and cause bad alignment, and I would have to take it apart again to replace them anyway. I got the Ingalls adjustable strut rods, as they were only a few $ more than the OE Ford ones.

I also had the same problem with getting the front inner bushing off on the driver's side, while the passenger side came apart with just a good yank. I first sprayed it with PB Blaster, although I'm not sure that it helped. MOstly I just beat the **** out of it with a short-handled 3lb. sledge, and pried around on it with a crowbar. It took me over an hour to get it out even at that.

As far as the rubber LCA bushing vs. the blue TPR, I elected to go with the TPR, but I don't know how much difference it really makes.

Overall for me, this project involved a lot of brute force and generous amounts of beer....

 

[htheduck]

Much thanks to your tips and info. The brute force had me aching for two days. I re-used the struts that were rusted down (in diameter) and I've got the same shimmy problem but much reduced since the front ones are the Moogs. I did not want to melt down the stock rubber bushings that came with the new Moog LCAs, but now that I think about it I may do it on my next vacation week off and give it a go, and then install the rear Moog bushings also with a new rods-next time will be much faster!

Please give me part number(s) & prices for the Ingalls rods and where to get them? Or should I just go the dealer route?

Thanks again.
-H

 

[Electricat]

Much thanks to your tips and info. The brute force had me aching for two days. I re-used the struts that were rusted down (in diameter) and I've got the same shimmy problem but much reduced since the front ones are the Moogs. I did not want to melt down the stock rubber bushings that came with the new Moog LCAs, but now that I think about it I may do it on my next vacation week off and give it a go, and then install the rear Moog bushings also with a new rods-next time will be much faster!

Please give me part number(s) & prices for the Ingalls rods and where to get them? Or should I just go the dealer route?

Thanks again.
-H

Yah, I also felt a little roughed up the day after I did mine. I'm sure it will go much easier if you take it apart again.

I got the Ingalls strut rods from RCM, $100 for the set. The Ford ones retail for $58 each if I remember right, and I saw them for $43 each somewhere, but I can't remember where?

The whole project ended up costing me more money and downtime than I had intended, but I'm really enjoying the tight "new car" feel up front!