Steering wheel clunk

[doclees]

My 89 has had this clunk for 2+year since I bought it. When after a stop turning right up an incline I feel a clunk throught the steering wheel and it seems to telescope a small amount at the same time. Both half shafts are new, one end link, one lower ball joint and one engine mount. Any clues?

 

[blue thunder]

When you get an answer let me know. I've had this for about 8 years. I'm going to try to change the struts again, but everything else under the car is brand new or 1 yr old. NOt to mention that my clunk has been around for a long time.

 

[FREAK_SHO]

Try here:
http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=56503

Dave

 

[projectSHO89]

Add to the list to check:

Subframe bushings/bolts (especially the rears)

Steering column slide joine under dash.

Steve

 

[Yamaha V6]

I've seen (& personally had) a number of strut rod collar failures. I've had some welded by a few different people, but probably the most secure repair to date has been using the Moog kit. It's just under $70 per side (not counting new bushings while you're in there; welding can cost you $100 per side easy, depending on the welder), it's easy to do yourself with basic tools too.

 

[CerberuS]

Yup , what that guy said, hapened here , look for loose - ripped - missing Rear end subframe bolts.

I found out the floor had a hole in it in that area and the subframe was holding by 3 bolts. When i turned the steering wheel was blocking. Found out the subframe rack was moving and the steering wheel shaft joint was blocking in the firewall.....

 

[doclees]

Thanks all, Freak_SLO listed a previous post that I didn't find that sounds just like it. I will have checked by my mechanic that only charges $20/hr straight time. I have no welding experience. I need to get this car straight since the wife has got the mtx bug.

 

[doclees]

Wait, wait I think I am having a brainfart. Are there two ways to go here for the fix? One weld and one Moog problem solver? Or are these two different problems? Freak_SHO's link lead me to two pdf files that seem to point to the same thing. The moog looks like a do-it-in the driveway no weld way of addressing the problem.

 

[FREAK_SHO]

Wait, wait I think I am having a brainfart. Are there two ways to go here for the fix? One weld and one Moog problem solver? Or are these two different problems? Freak_SHO's link lead me to two pdf files that seem to point to the same thing. The moog looks like a do-it-in the driveway no weld way of addressing the problem.

"It depends upon the "damage".
If the bushing reciever is simply loose, you can simple weld it to the subframe.
If the surrounding portion of the subframe is rotted out, you need the problem solver kit." <- Copied from post #30 in the above link.

Dave

 

[doclees]

Ahhh, the gas has cleared! That makes sense. No rot, weld. Those moog kits are not cheap. It will be much cheaper to have it welded if possible.

 

[blue thunder]

I will have to check with my mechanic, but Aluminum subframe bushings with new bolts was done a couple of weeks ago before convention. I think I have done the moog problem solver on both sides already. I know I have moog all under the front end, because I have all grease fittings. Every oil change I'm lubed in my moogs. I will try to see if it is the strut rod reciever. This makes actually the most sense to me.