Steering rack replacment.

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rcsavage

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ok guys, im stumped. im replacing the steering rack and im trying to get the input shaft collar off the rack and it doesn't come freely at all. this part doesnt really bother me as i can pry it off. im more concerned about how i get the collar onto the new rack. its such a tight fit and theres no room for me to push it down onto the rack. how has everyone else dont this in the past?
 

MD Ever

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I haven't replaced the rack in a taurus of any kind in years but isn't there a pinch bolt you remove and then you can spread the collar with a chisel or something? That's how I used to do it back in the day.
 

rcsavage

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ok. and if you can remember, anyone, does it freely slide on the new one? its just so tight i cant see it happening.

and what is everyones angle to get at it with the chisel/screwdriver? only way i have found is the drivers side wheel well.

i had tried a screw driver before, but i felt like i was going to break something so i stopped. thanks guys, maybe i can actually do this now.
 

naval-avi8or

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Thru the large hole in the firewall. Just remove the 3-4 bolts/nuts around the interior seal and pull the boot/seal up the steerng shaft.
 
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JEM

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Thru the large hole in the firewall. Just remove the 3-4 bolts/nuts around the interior seal and pull the boot/seal up the steerng shaft.

Yeah, all that work should be done from inside the car. Pull the driver's seat if necessary to get working room.

I've never had a lower U-joint yoke not come off the rack fairly easily once the pinch-bolt is out (it has to be removed, not just loosened, but I assume you know that...) but I suppose if the boot were messed up and the joint were corroded it could get sticky. If I couldn't get the thing off the rack without ridiculous amounts of force I'd try pulling the intermediate shaft at the top U-joint and removing it with the rack.
 

rcsavage

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ok ill try to get the boot off later today/tomorrow, and try the screwdriver tip. thanks alot guys.

BTW, i just put this rebuilt rack in, less than 3 months ago. i did it with the engine out so it was MUCH easier.
 

rcsavage

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ok some good news and bad news. i got the old rack out and the new rack in. got it all back together and something is wrong. the camber on the car is way negative. i forgot to use a rod when tightening the subframe bolts. could the subframe being shifted back cause the camber to be messed up? if this is not the problem then i dont know what else it could be.
 

93rev2sev

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Rack should not have anything to do with camber...just toe.

Having the subframe mis-aligned might...

Have you checked to see how well its aligned? There are holes in the subframe aft of the front subframe bolts. These holes are supposed to line up perfectly with adjacent holes in the body...sitck a large tire iron through both holes. It should be perfectly vertical on bot sides.
 

rcsavage

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i know how to align the subframe and i just came in from doing that and its still way out :frown: im really stumped on what could cause this. ill try to get a picture. what is used to adjust camber on the sho because everything is hooked up so i have no idea.
 

naval-avi8or

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Have your stru twr spotwelds been drilled out. If so then maybe the subframe was not properly positioned during a alignment. Now that the subframe is positioned correctly the camber is out. Only things that can affect it is Subframe shift, Strut mount plates, or bad suspension parts.

Pics would be nice. Also after setting it back on the ground have you moved the car at all to allow the suspension to nuetralize.
 
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rcsavage

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yes after i shifted the frame i drove it out of the garage and down my driveway. got out and it was out of wack. and u can feel that something is wrong. the car has tokicos with eibach springs and the plates are not removed. i have had the subframe loosened before to put on my ALSFB's and it was fine after that. im going crazy here.
 

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