Steering pop/crack

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Aeterna

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So the other day i noticed what feels like a pop or crack (virbration) in the steering wheel you can slightly hear it when it happens.

It seems to mostly happen when taking a right turn and bringing the steering wheel back to zero. Or when taking a turn with some speed and weight shifts to the front driver side. So basically when the front driver side suspension gets some load it typically acts up.

The pop i feel in the wheel usually pops or cracks three times simultaneously. I check the front and rear sway bar and endlinks which look fine.


Anyone have any thoughts?
 

glockcoma

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What year? Could be thrust washers on the hubs.There is a tsb for similar symptoms. Could also be a bad wheel bearing/hub.
 

Aeterna

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Oh sorry that might help, its a 2013 with PP.

Thanks ill looks into those
 

Aeterna

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Well it doesnt say i need the recall but maybe thats the problem. Ill try and find the tsb for it and check myself.
 

Aeterna

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alright so, I found that the axle nut on the front driver side was finger loose. this is the big nut in the middle of the wheel assembly. I there was not a crush washer or anything with it, it seems to of had some sort of sealant or apoxy on the back side of the nut.

does anyone know if I scant re-use this nut and the torq specs for it? also if it needs a washer of sorts?
 

glockcoma

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Hole-lee-**** !! Finger tight?!!
That thing should be something like 190 ft lbs.
 

glockcoma

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There's usually some sort of cotter pin preventing the nut from turning that much
 

Aeterna

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Alright so ive got it tightened down, but its still making the noise. Im looking for a thrust washer that is mentioned in the tsb glockcoma mentioned.

Anyideas where to get this thrust washer?
 
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glockcoma

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Thrust washer goes on the inside of the hub.
So you would have to put on the washer BEFORE you put the spindle into the hub. Then tighten the nut
 

Aeterna

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Thanks yeah i sourced the thrust washer that will be in tomorrow.

Found a hub assembly locally that im going to install and see if it fixes the problem tonight.
 

SHOdded

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Remove and discard the lower ball joint nut.
  • Separate the ball joint from the wheel knuckle
Halfshaft — RH
Removal

All vehicles

  1. With the vehicle in NEUTRAL, position it on a hoist. For additional information, refer to Section 100-02 .
  1. Remove the wheel and tire. For additional information, refer to Section 204-04 .
  1. Discard the specified component. Follow local disposal regulations.
  • Discard the specified component. Follow local disposal regulations.
  1. NOTICE: Suspension fasteners are critical parts because they affect performance of vital components and systems and their failure may result in major service expense. New parts must be installed with the same part number or equivalent part, if replacement is necessary. Do not use a replacement part of lesser quality or substitute design. Torque values must be used as specified during reassembly to make sure of correct retention of these parts.

    NOTICE: Use care when releasing the lower arm and knuckle into the resting position or damage to the ball joint seal or Constant Velocity (CV) boot may occur.

    NOTE: Use the hex-holding feature to prevent the stud from turning while removing the nut.

    Discard the specified component. Follow local disposal regulations.
  1. Special Tool(s): Remover, Front Wheel Hub 205-D070
All Vehicles except 3.5L Gasoline Turbocharged Direct Injection (GTDI) and Police Vehicles

Vehicles with 3.5L GTDI and Police Vehicles

  1. Discard the specified component. Follow local disposal regulations.
Installation

AWD vehicles

NOTICE: A new Power Transfer Unit (PTU) shaft seal must be installed whenever the intermediate shaft is removed or damage to the components can occur.

  1. Install a new intermediate shaft seal and deflector. For additional information, refer to Section 308-07B .
All vehicles

  1. Visual check
FWD vehicles

  1. Visual check
AWD vehicles

  1. Visual check
Vehicles with 3.5L GTDI and Police Vehicles

All Vehicles except 3.5L GTDI and Police Vehicles

    • Tighten to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft).
All vehicles

    • Tighten to 200 Nm (148 lb-ft).
    • Tighten to 150 Nm (111 lb-ft).
    • Tighten to 150 Nm (111 lb-ft).
  1. NOTICE: Do not tighten the front wheel hub nut with the vehicle on the ground. The nut must be tightened to specification before the vehicle is lowered onto the wheels. Wheel bearing damage will occur if the wheel bearing is loaded with the weight of the vehicle applied.

    Using the previously removed wheel hub nut, seat the halfshaft.
    • Tighten to 350 Nm (258 lb-ft).
  1. Discard the specified component. Follow local disposal regulations.
  1. NOTICE: The wheel hub nut contains a one-time locking chemical that is activated by the heat created when it is tightened. Install and tighten the new wheel hub nut to specification within 5 minutes of starting it on the threads. Always install a new wheel hub nut after loosening or when not tightened within the specified time or damage to the components can occur.
    • Tighten to 350 Nm (258 lb-ft).
  1. Install the wheel and tire. For additional information, refer to Section 204-04 .
 

Attachments

  • 2013 SHO Front Right Halfshaft.pdf
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  • 2013 SHO Front Left Halfshaft.pdf
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Aeterna

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thanks Shodded. Ive seen this but on my car the noise seems to be coming from the drivers side which I assume would be considered the left but the article mentions the right.

Ive got a CPO warranty on the car until 100k so i will probably reach out to a dealership for coverage if this thrust washer doesnt fix it.
 

Aeterna

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it would seem that the thrust washer has fixed my issue, I will know for sure as I drive it more but so far so good.

thanks, everyone for the help. sucks that I fixed this only to put my car on Autotrader haha. I have my eye on a C7.
 

Aeterna

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Yeah its bittersweet. Ive transitioned to driving my truck everyday so im wanting to get a coupe with a targa top as a weekend cruiser.

I messed up and rented a C7 when the GF and i were in Oahu now we both want one lol!
 

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