Steering Noise After new PS pump - PS Rack?

[Marccus]

'89 SHO with about 390,000 mi.

I read through the search return of "similar threads" for this post

I replaced the PS pump with the Cardone remanufactured one.

When I start to turn the wheel to the left there is noise or a groaning noise, also it makes a sound like the tire is rubbing on the pavement (which it does anyway) but you can hear it. It seems to be like a vibration sound, but I feel no vibration in the wheel or the car.

So from what I've read, the steering rack needs to be replaced.

RockAuto has all the parts that go into the rack.

Is it possible to rebuild the rack yourself?

I assume that if you replace the rack one should replace the high pressure hose from the pump outlet to the rack. The low pressure hoses from the rack outlet to the cooler, from the cooler to the reservoir, and from the reservoir to the pump inlet appear OK.

I read sdpatt post in 2003 , and he stated he installed the Cardone remanufactured rack.

There is also a Motorcraft remanufactured rack.

Does anyone have experience with these racks, what to expect, and which is preferred?

Finally what type of steering do I have! Do I have VAPS as stock?

This steering seems OK to me. It's not overly assisted and I feel I get a pretty good feel for the road.

What is the option besides VAPS?

What does it feel like? Is it "better" for feel of the road and control?

Any "disadvantages" like more work to steer the vehicle.?

How do you remove VAPS anyway?

Thanks. :thankyou:

 

[SonicRiot]

89 SHO wouldn't have VAPS, but SHOs do have a different (quicker) steering ratio than the standard Taurus, so be careful what you buy. When I looked into the Motorcraft unit, it was double the price of the Cardone unit, and it was limited availability (this was about 2 or 3 years ago).

The Cardone unit comes with a warranty. Rebuilding it yourself could leave you up the creak without a warranty if a part fails and you'll be paying and rebuilding it again. It's a matter of swapping the rack in and out and bleeding the pump. It's just a more efficient way to repair the car. Additionally, seeing as you're car has more miles than the moon is from the Earth, you shouldn't be worried about keeping it original or strictly Motorcraft.

And last, not to be condescending, but did you replace the fluid and bleed the system? I replaced the rack in my Plus due to broken threads where the piston meets the inner tie rod (ouch). I settled on the SHO Cardone unit as it was the cheapest, had the best warranty, and was readily available and clearly distinguished from the VAPS and standard Taurus rack.

After I replaced it and filled the system with new ps fluid, I ran the car with my brother turning the wheel back and forth while I continually topped up the resevoir. This flushed out the old fluid and gunk and helped push out air. Over the next few days, I had to keep checking the resevoir as the system would burp due to air still in the system. Air in the system will cause groaning, especially at lock or low speed manuvers, so the car was noisy until I got all the air out.

Before replacing your rack, try bleeding the system. Lock-to-lock until you can't take it anymore. BTW, only hold it for a couple seconds at lock.

 

[SHOtimer]

When I redid my PS system it took me a good week or two to get the system to completely quiet down - turning the wheels back and forth didn't get all the air out...I just had to drive it and have it purge itself. Took forever. But it all got out.

I would suggest you put some miles on it, keep an eye on the fluid, cycle the wheels back and forth and see what happens.

Doug

 

[itwonder]

IMHO, it would be counterproductive to rebuild a rack yourself when the lifetime warranty that comes on the Cardone unit is taken into consideration. I installed a Cardone rack on our 300ZX, and it worked out fine.

But I agree with the others who suggest flushing and bleeding the system first. You will need at least a gallon, better two, of ATF. Supertech Dexron III/Mercon from Walmart is cheap and as good as any. NAPA also has ATF in gallon jugs. Raise the front wheels off the ground. Suck what fluid you can out of the PS reservoir. Place a lot of rags below the reservoir to catch any spillage; anything that gets by will find its way into the frame and run out near the right rear subframe mount making you think you have a leak somewhere. Disconnect the return hose (the small one) from the reservoir and point it into a container that will hold at least a gallon to catch the old dirty fluid. It helps to make up an extension for the return hose using a double barb fitting you can find in the air compressor section at Home Depot and 3' of 3/8 ID hose. Plug up the ****** on the PS reservoir, or install a short piece of hose and loop it upward so the end is higher than the top of the reservoir. Now fill the reservoir with fresh ATF. Have a helper start the car and turn the wheel at a moderate pace from stop to stop, pausing at each stop. While he is doing that, you keep pouring in ATF so the reservoir does not run dry. It goes down at a rapid pace! If you get behind, just shut off the motor until you can catch back up and then continue. Try not to let the reservoir run dry. You will see bursts of dirty fluid come out near each stop. When the fluid runs clean at each stop, you are done. Hook everything back up and refill the reservoir to the proper level.

 

[Marccus]

...
And last, not to be condescending, but did you replace the fluid and bleed the system? I replaced the rack in my Plus due to broken threads where the piston meets the inner tie rod (ouch). I settled on the SHO Cardone unit as it was the cheapest, had the best warranty, and was readily available and clearly distinguished from the VAPS and standard Taurus rack.

After I replaced it and filled the system with new ps fluid, I ran the car with my brother turning the wheel back and forth while I continually topped up the resevoir. This flushed out the old fluid and gunk and helped push out air. Over the next few days, I had to keep checking the resevoir as the system would burp due to air still in the system. Air in the system will cause groaning, especially at lock or low speed manuvers, so the car was noisy until I got all the air out.

Before replacing your rack, try bleeding the system. Lock-to-lock until you can't take it anymore. BTW, only hold it for a couple seconds at lock.

Well, you are right, not condenscending at all.

When I have replaced the fluid periodically without changing the pump, I've performed the exact procedure you mentioned regarding flushing, replacinig fluid, bleeding air, turn lock to lock with the front of the car on jack stands and both wheels off the ground.

Problem was, that I finished the job at 3:30 am Monday morning and didn't have time to do everything as before. But I did drain all the old fluid from the system but did not flush.

I just added new fluid, set her down, looked at the fluid in the reservoir as the car ran, saw lot of air bubbles in the fluid (almost frothy), but eventually fluid turned "clear red" (no air bubbles).

But I should do as you instructed and go back and flush, bleed the system properly. I just had 3 hours to get ready for work.

And I've been getting home so late at night during this week that I haven't had the time.

BTW, will I "ruin" anything while drivinig around like this.

I hope not!!

Also, yes, a lot of miles. But I constantly keep up with the car.

But you know, I still like driving it better than anything else out there new within my affordable range.

That's just crazy. There should be something better with all the new technology in handling etc. Maybe I have an unconscious prejudice and I am realy fooling myself.

Oh, well, I'll start test driving new cars again.

Mods:
sho nut reinforced motor mounts

subframe connectors

sho nut aluminum subframe bushings (awesome improvement in handling and no disadvantages in vibration, noise (at least not to me)

stainless steel brake lines (big reduction in sponginess of brakes)

front strut tower brace.

K& N air filter

Performance Plus Y-pipe (big improvement in acceleration response)

Need:
Eibach lowering springs
strut inserts - it has much improved lateral stability, but too much up and down bounce over bumps at high speed on highway.

 

[SonicRiot]

Thanks for the, uh, thanks..! That's a new feature since I was here last.

Provided the system isn't totally cavitated, you wont ruin the pump. Yes, air in the system puts unusual stress on the pump, but provided you continue to top of the resevoir as needed, it shouldn't be a problem. In fact driving it may help to further purge the air from the system. Just be aware of a sudden loss of power steering or overly loud screeching or groaning from the pump.

And I'm sure there's plenty of other cars you'll enjoy, but I'm still convinced Ford put something addictive in the steering wheel leather...

I hated to see my Plus go.