Startin up and gauge problems

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Val

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I've recently noticed that Im havin hard times starting the engine up. It all started when I put 89 grade octane in it, and ive got almost half tank, so I drove to Dennis, the cat who sold me the car and ofcourse shut down the engine as i walked in his office. Then when i got back in, it wud spin the starter and i cud hear it cranking, but it wont start up. Maybe after like 3 mins of hopelesly tryin to start it up, i cought the moment and i reved it right away (yes there was some black smoke comin outta the tailpipes). Since that my RPM gauge stopped working, it just stayed at "0". I drove to discount auto parts right away and put the octane booster in it. But it didnt seem to fix the problem completely, although it was a lil easier to start it up then. And the gauge starts workin by itself after a period of time, usually from 20 mins to more than an hour. I've noticed that it starts real ez on the cold engine (low octane?) But today when the tank was about 1/4 full i've put 10 gallons of 93 octane in it. And ive still had those problems on the warmed up engine. Also my speedo is acting funny after a "long start up" like 2night I was drivin on I4 from brandon to Lakeland and almost all that time it stayed at 85-90, but i noticed that i was goin pretty quick, cuz i was passin every single car, and changin lanes non-stop, and suddenly my speedo jumped from 85 to 110 mph. I was like "SHIT!". I knew that i was goin relatively fast, but i didnt know that i was goin that fast all that time. I got from brandon to lakeland in 27 mins, and it usually takes me about 45-1hr.
 

Val

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No suh, no codes, but Im 90% sure that its the Cam Position Sensor. Now anyone knows where its located?
 

jelloslug

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My money is on the CID (cylinder identification sensor). When mine went out it had the same problems, hard starting and a dead tach. It's located at the rear passenger corner of the engine, kinda below the intake on the end rear most cam (it's outside of the engine). There around $35 at Auto Zone. Not too tough to change, just a bit cramped back there.
 

masho95

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Ditto on your thoughts and Jelloslugs. If the tach is dying while still running it's almost certainly the CMP sensor. Disconnect the electrical connector. Unscrew the 2 5.5mm bolts holding it in, and installation is reverse. Of course it's a little harder than that due to getting your hands in there with stuff in the way, but that's all you need to do to change it. Feel free to disconnect anything that you might need to for access. I've found moving the coolant reservoir and crossover tube allows you for a little more room to move your hands in there.
 

Val

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The tach usually dies after a real long attempt to crank up the engine. Ive talked to shomasster on AOL he also said that its a Cam PS.
 
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