Start up: The "Good", The "Bad", The "Not at all"....

[Silver Bullet]

Lately I'm experiencing some problems starting up the SHO. If I start it after it is cold and has sat for a bit she fires up strong "No problem". If I try and start it warm and after it has ran for a while it {Sometimes} kicks over and immediatley starts to run VERY rough and idles extermely low. If I don't apply pressure to the gas pedal, it stalls. When I apply pressure to the gas it revs rough, and after about a minute or two begins to idle stronger but considerably lower than it should be. Also yesterday for the first time EVER the SHO stalled out on me. This happened after a crappy start up, when I backed out of the driveway "Just as I put the car in drive". I was shocked...LOL!! Also... Sometimes after driving if I attempt to start the car it keeps cranking for 10 seconds at a time before the engine fires up. Feels to me like there's no gas getting in there...What could be doing this? I am suspecting maybe a faulty "Fuel Pump" or "Mass air flow sensor". I am looking to my fellow members to see if they agree with me. Take care!!

<small>[ October 13, 2003, 01:34 AM: Message edited by: Silver Bullet ]</small>

 

[FriedRiceBob]

another thing to consider is your O2 sensors (as i so recently learned) i had a couple stalls, and have replaced the o2's and now they are MIA (the stalls). however, i did not have any of the car-starting issues that you are talking about.

 

[SHOtimer]

Do you have any codes?
Doug

 

[Silver Bullet]

I got code "332" - EGR Didn't open intermittently. This is after I replaced the "EGR and EGR Sensor"... Not sure why I'd still get that code with brand new parts. I also got a code 542 for an open fuel pump circuit? My check engine light comes on after high rpm's "Highway driving", and just stays on the rest of the time I'm driving...

Sometimes she starts up perfectly, and then all of the sudden for no apparent reason she starts up like crap. No matter how the start up goes, the car always performs well while driving. This sort of makes me feel the "Mass air sensor" is ok, because the last time I had a problem with that it effected my driving performance considerably.

<small>[ October 13, 2003, 01:58 AM: Message edited by: Silver Bullet ]</small>

 

[SHO_Driver]

If it's the fuel pump the symptons will get worse and it won't run. Put a fuel pressure gauge on it to make sure.

 

[Silver Bullet]

Does a faulty SHO "Fuel pump" ALWAYS whine when it's Malfunctioning/Dying?

Which fuel pump will be best ...

155LPH, 190LPH, or 250LPH? It's a 93 3.2L "ATX" with 123,000 on the odo......

<small>[ October 13, 2003, 02:48 AM: Message edited by: Silver Bullet ]</small>

 

[Bizzy]

Silver Bullet:
Does a faulty SHO "Fuel pump" ALWAYS whine when it's Malfunctioning/Dying?

Which fuel pump will be best ...

155LPH, 190LPH, or 250LPH? It's a 93 3.2L "ATX" with 123,000 on the odo......

No, it doesn't always whine, but it can growl or have a grinding sound. Mine sounded like it was grinding up walnuts when it would prime just before it died but it never had the notorious whining/whistling sound.

As for replacement pumps, that will depend on what you plan on for the car. If you plan on a blower you should consider going with a larger pump. Otherwise, stock would be fine for your application IMO. In a stock car a large pump is overkill.

 

[stevetatro]

Read this for info regarding your 332 code

http://www.shotimes.com/php-bin/modules.php?op=modload&name=News&file=article&mode=thread&order=0&thold=0&sid=86

As for the 542 code, you can ignore it. This code appears (and obviously doesn't go away) if the car is stalled at some point. If you reset your computer, the code should go away. This probably just happened at your recent stall. This code does not at all indicate your fuel pump is dying.

If you're experiencing these problems as you describe, where it ALWAYS starts fine when cold, but has problems when warm (like when you've only let it set for 15 minutes to an hour) I would GUESS your CID (cylinder identification) sensor is on it's way out. This is exactly how mine acted years ago when it was dying. If you let it get bad enough, it will give you a code. You can either let it get to that point, or just replace it. Cheap part, relatively easy to replace (at least compared to the CPS).

If you ever get a code 214 you'll know for sure, but judging by your description that's my official guess.

It could also be the CPS (crank position sensor) but I doubt it, in this case. Usually those rear their ugly heads by way of stalling and not re-starting (not exactly your symptoms).

Good luck. Let us know if we can be of any other help!

 

[SHOguy 92]

yeah faulty fuel pump would be my guess you should have that checked out. but also stalling lots of time has to do with a bad CPS so if you have ever had leaky power steering i'd look into that. but i don't know if a CPS causes the idleing problems that u described too. well good luck with the car.

 

[Silver Bullet]

Thanks everyone thumb

I need to know two more things please!!

1. Where is my "Cylinder Identification Sensor"?

2. Where is my "Crank Position Sensor"?


ALSO... When I turn the key and the "Fuel Pump" primes, it IS pretty loud like someone described above. Is this normal? It actually sounds like a coffe grinder to me.......

<small>[ October 13, 2003, 09:11 PM: Message edited by: Silver Bullet ]</small>

 

[SHO_Driver]

No, not normal.

 

[Bizzy]

Silver Bullet:
Thanks everyone thumb

I need to know two more things please!!

1. Where is my "Cylinder Identification Sensor"?

2. Where is my "Crank Position Sensor"?


ALSO... When I turn the key and the "Fuel Pump" primes, it IS pretty loud like someone described above. Is this normal? It actually sounds like a coffe grinder to me.......

Your Crank sensor is located just under the water pump so you'll have to remove some things before you can expose it. Cam sensor is located on the rear head, passenger side close to the firewall just over the power steering pump pulley. It's circular in shape so you can't miss it.

No, it's not normal for your pump to sound like a coffee grinder on priming.

Good luck with it all!

 

[projectSHO89]

stevetatro:
Read this for info regarding your 332 code

http://www.shotimes.com/php-bin/modules.php?op=modload&name=News&file=article&mode=thread&order=0&thold=0&sid=86

BEFORE jumping into the nostril cleaning procedure, see my post Diagnosing the 332 Error Code

You may just save yourself some time and trouble by actually knowing what is wrong instead of just assuming the nostrils are plugged. If they are found to be plugged, then cleaning them is the corrective action. If they are not plugged, you've just wasted time and resources without correcting the real problem.

Steve

 

[Joe'sSHO]

I don't know if this is overkill, but chances are if you're fuel pump is making noise and it (the car) is hard starting and stalling, the fuel pump is dying. This has happened to me in my mustang and my SHO, and it sounds like the same symptoms. Like someone already stated, if it is the pump it will only get worse. Just a suggestion.