Stalls..Starts Right Back Up, Now Fine...**UPDATE AZ RAN CODES!!**See Last Post

[JoeHoe_SHO]

Okay...I stalled out about 7 or 8 times Sat. night. It was only when I was slowing down. The tach would drop all the way down, and I would stall. No CE light, have not ran codes...started right back up every time. Then, I let it sit for a while and its been fine...not a stall to be had.

If it matters- My horn got stuck on, I messed w/a few plugs by the horn to try to dis-connect it...It seemed not to stall after I made sure they were re-connected.

Is this symptoms of a Throttle Position Senson?

<small>[ July 28, 2003, 07:00 PM: Message edited by: JoeHoe_SHO ]</small>

 

[K-Dawg]

CPS maybe? Codes, codes, codes.

 

[JoeHoe_SHO]

The reason I don't think its CPS is 'cause it is starting right back up...no hard starts, tach moves when I crank.

The problem is gone...at least it seems to be. Hmmmm....


Edit- Did you mean Cam Position Sensor, or Crank Position Sensor?

<small>[ July 28, 2003, 04:45 PM: Message edited by: JoeHoe_SHO ]</small>

 

[shoinoff95]

It sounds like the crank position sensor. I had the same problem when I first bought my car, it would die intermentally and when coming to a stop; but it would start right away and other times it would take a little bit to cool off, then it would start right back up again.

 

[JoeHoe_SHO]

According to the codes Auto Zone pulled for me...its my Mass Air Flow Sensor

Code "66" Mass Airflow Sensor Signal was below self test limitys during vehicle operation and fault was stored in continous memory.

I do hear a vaccume leak, doesn't seem to affect performance or driving of the car. Every now and again, I will have a slightly higher than normal idle(1200 rpms) and every once in a blue moon it will start hard.

To my surprise, that was the only code it threw. I don't need a CPS, which is a good 50 bones I will save.

Does this mean that the MAF needs to be cleaned? Or is the vaccume leak throwing the MAF off?

Could it be a dirty K&N?

<small>[ July 28, 2003, 07:07 PM: Message edited by: JoeHoe_SHO ]</small>

 

[Foxwulfe]

Joe, when you were slowing down (and it stalled), was the clutch still engaged (meaning you were engine braking)?

Sounds to me like your crankshaft position sensor is starting to get tempermental.

 

[Mr Anonymous]

Just because the PCM didn't throw a CPS/CKP/PIP code doesn't necessarily mean that you're out of the woods there. Did AZ clear the codes for you? If not, you'll want to clear the codes and keep an eye on them while this problem persists.

In order to make an effective diagnosis, you're going to want to first correct any other known problems you have. Start by locating and repairing the vacuum leak. You might also want to clean the MAF elements with some electrical contact cleaner. The MAF code may be related to the vacuum leak, but if repairing the leak and cleaning the MAF elements don't keep the code from coming back, you may need to replace the MAF down the road. A dirty/bad MAF often results in rough running, and while I personally haven't seen it result in repeated stalls, it might be the problem if the signal is far enough askew. And if your K&N is dirty, service it.

Another way to determine if the MAF is contributing to the problem is disconnect it (puts the PCM in open-loop mode) and see if the problem persists.

Once those problems are fixed, you should reset the idle speed program. If the stalling continues, you're going to want to start with a step-by-step diagnosis. Ignition problems (stalling qualifies as an ignition problem) that don't throw a code can often be traced to a plug or wire problem.

 

[JoeHoe_SHO]

Oil in the plug wells could cause this...Yes??

 

[Mr Anonymous]

JoeHoe_SHO:
Oil in the plug wells could cause this...Yes??

That would technically qualify as a plug/wire problem, so yes. But, you would usually also see rough running all around, not just an intermittent stall. If there's oil in the wells, clean them out. Like I said, you've got to fix known problems first to figure out if the stalling is related or separate.

 

[AutoSHO]

Ground problem. Ignition related. Has to be a DIS ground, or bad CPS/CID signal (most likely CPS).

<small>[ July 29, 2003, 12:02 AM: Message edited by: AutoSHO ]</small>

 

[JoeHoe_SHO]

What about dirty battery connections? Some times when I accelerate hard, my radio will cut out, and lights dim

 

[Mr Anonymous]

What about ______??? Fill in the blank. If you have items that need maintenance or repairs, fix them. An improperly maintained car is going to have problems. Until you start fixing problems you know about, you're never going to enjoy a well-running SHO.

 

[JoeHoe_SHO]

I don't have a problem stricken SHO. I noticed the radio thing last night, figured it would be dirty battery cables. Not too much to do w/working on a car at 3am...then when I wake up, eat, go to work...go home, do the same thing all over again. The oil in the plugs is not a big deal...the stalling has not occured again.

I will admit to letting the waterpump go. Its not leaking that bad yet, and its been leaking for about a month and a half. Sure, sometimes I get some smoke from coolent dripping on the cats, but its not like the car is overheating, stalling all the time(has 2 times since I've had it), or starting hard(1 or 2 times a week). I plan on including a waterpump(reman) in the sale of the car anyway.

I'm just trouble shooting...

<small>[ July 29, 2003, 07:34 PM: Message edited by: JoeHoe_SHO ]</small>

 

[JoeHoe_SHO]

JUSTIN It would stall either way...even with the clutch engauged. I do not doubt that it is the CPS getting an attitude w/me. I think I can get another few weeks out of it. This kid I know(the one w/the fake baby@my house)wants to buy my car for 1500...for that price I would include the CPS and maybe a re-man waterpump in the sale. But...if the **** quits on me before then, I will be getting down and dirty and doing it myself(look out)

Does me having the clutch engauged when I stall mean it is something else, or does it further verify that I have a failing CPS?

 

[Foxwulfe]

The loss of tach while the engine is still revving leads me to believe that the CPS is not giving a clean (or any at all) signal. Or, that the CPS is not getting the voltage to give a signal (bad ground, connector, harness wire, battery, etc).

The fact is that your water pump is leaking so bad that it drips, probably right over the clearance-specific CPS.

Enjoy your non-scuffed and uncut forearms and hands while you still have them, as you have a CPS to change so you can get to work reliably.

Your SHO wants to get intimate with you, now!

 

[JoeHoe_SHO]

Its okay, I have AAA