Stalling around 2-3K RPM

[HuskerSHO]

First of all I am a new member of this forum and am impressed with the content so far.
I recently purchased a cherry, green '95 3.2 SHO and I have to admit Ford has weakened the knees of this life time Chevy owner, I am very impressed with the performance, and the practicality for my family, (if only I could get my wife to let me drive it once in a while).
As all of my experience is with GM engines and transmissions I need a little guidence here. I have noticed the engine luggs down between 2 and 3 K RPM and makes it hesitate on shifting. Sometimes even when I floor it it still hesitates, although once it passes 3K it seems to shift and accelerate fine. During hiway used where it is cruising around 2.5K RPM I can feel it hesitating and even at times shifts to 2nd gear to resume 60MPH. It has the automatic tranny and does this wheather the O/D is engauged or not. The engine light does come on but only intermittently and while the car is hesitating the engine light is not on. Like I said this is a new purchase (2 weeks) and I have no idea what the maintenance shedule has been. At an idle I can power brake it and I can hear and feel a flutter either like it is flooding or plug failure. Don't want to sound dumb here but this is my first engine with all of these extra computer bells and whistles, and help would be great.

 

[sdpatt]

Your engine is experiencing a control system error that is being stored in the electronic engine control (EEC) computer. Any time the CHECK ENGINE light illuminates, there is a code stored in the EEC. To read the stored codes, you can take it to a shop and spend big bucks, or click on the following link and learn to do it by yourself. It takes only a short (3") jumper wire, the ignition key and about 5 minutes of your time. The second link is accessible from the first link and shows the descriptions of the 3-digit error codes.

The engine stumble in the 2-3,000 rpm range sounds like a spark misfire. These are usually due to a secondary ignition system fault in either the spark plugs or plug wires. Pull the boots on the front three plugs and check for oil and/or water in the wells. Either of these could cause misfires that result in the loss of power and smoothness in the midrange. The only source of the oil is from the spark plug well seals at the valve cover to head mating surface. This can be cleaned out but the real fix is to replace the seals. The six seals come in the Fel-Pro VS50378R set with the two valve cover seals. The intake manifold and valve covers must be removed to replace these seals. The only source of water would be from the owner using water to wash the engine. NEVER use water to wash an electronically controlled engine.
http://www.dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html
http://www.dalidesign.com/hbook/3digit.html

Welcome to the SHO


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Scott

1991, 255K miles, glass hood, police grill, SVO shifter, Catz fogs,
K&N, 73mm MAF, Superchip, PP Y-pipe, Borla cat-back, 190 lph pump
Eibach/Tokico/poly, Alum front SFB, SS front/rear strut braces,
16x7.5" Moda R1, 225/55ZR16 Bridgestone RE730, -1 deg camber x 4,
6 disc CD, Class II hitch, Silver award at SHOklahoma Car Show

 

[IVEYSSHO]

Welcome to the SHOFORUM world....I see our top notch technical representative has already adressed your problem. How's that for service? I don't think GMAC could ever match up to that.

Enjoy the Green 95, I have one as well. ATX with 63300 on it.

 

[Mr.Xc]

I am also a new member of this forum, but not to Ford or SHO's. What I have read in these posts is far better than anything that ever came out of Fo.Mo.Co. I speak from experience since I have worked for a Ford dealer for the past 15 years. I own a '92 w/mtx the car is all stock with 130k on the clock. I've owned it since it was two years old and had only a few problems in all those miles. I worked at two different Ford dealers over the past 15 years as a parts guy and have had access to alot of info on these cars. The only thing I could not get was a tech to work on my SHO,the techs hate them. I've done my own clutch twice using the lifts at the shops, and the timing belt once. Just this winter my car has developed a bucking/jerking while driving at normal speeds. It lasts only for a few seconds then the car resumes power. At the advice of the techs I've replaced the relay control box above the radiator(contains EEC,fuel pump & fan relays $177.00)also the TFI module and cam sensor,these did not resolve the problem. There are no codes in the PCM and the check engine light does not lite when this bucking happens. I'm leaning towards the fuel pump as my own diagnosis,but I'm afraid of spending any more money on bad a guess. I have changed careers now and no longer have tech's or discounts on factory parts. Enough said, now the question--has anyone had a similar problem, or does anyone have an educated solution to this problem? Thank You all & keep up the good "posts"

 

[HuskerSHO]

I'll tell you what I cames across after the great advice I got earlier.
I got every code possible for the O2 sensors and also my TPS. I swapped them both out today and the car runs like it is straight from the showroom. (BTW you need a lot smaller hands than I got to disconnect the wires on the blasted O2 sensors.) I also checked the front 3 cyls. and found a very small amount of oil in the plug wells. I decided that is more of a 75 deg. day project than 40 deg. so next summer I will work on that.
Thanks for the great advice, GM's are pretty cool but for now Ford's run the SHO in this house.

Jim

 

[luigisho]

Mr.Xc -Sounds like crank sensor but do the obvious first. Pull the plug wires and check for oil in the wells. If so don't remove plugs until you clean that stuff out of there. Also check the plugs for fouling and the correct gap. You're not kidding about the tech's. Everytime I pull into a dealership they all run away! And the ones who try to help winding up costing me major cash w/out fixing the problem. This is the place to be.
Husker- I'd tell you to fix that problem asap but then again I don't live where it's anywhere near that cold! When you finally get around to it replace the plugs and wires also as the oil tends to damage the wires over time.
Welcome aboard!

 

[Mr.Xc]

Thanks "luigisho" I neglected to mention in my first post that I have already done the valve covers and o-rings as I did have the oil leaking into the plug wells about a year ago. At that time I also changed the plugs and installed a new set of factory wires (lifetime warranty on original wire set purchased) I appreciate the heads up on the crank sensor I'll be checking it out. Do you know if there is a way to test it ??
Thanks again.

 

[Shoman94]

Originally posted by Mr.Xc:
Thanks "luigisho" I neglected to mention in my first post that I have already done the valve covers and o-rings as I did have the oil leaking into the plug wells about a year ago. At that time I also changed the plugs and installed a new set of factory wires (lifetime warranty on original wire set purchased) I appreciate the heads up on the crank sensor I'll be checking it out. Do you know if there is a way to test it ??
Thanks again.

Mr.XC. I would change your TPSensor since that is one of the only sensors that will not throw a code. Its cheap fortunately.


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'94 MTX Silver
Tokico Struts, Eibach Springs, Spmotorsports SubFrame Conn. 29mm ShoShop Rear sway bar, Shohop Cat back, Gutted box with K&N, '96 Brake Upgrade, White Face Guages.

 

[luigisho]

Mr.Xc what do you mean at normal speeds? Are we talking steady throttle? I recall I had a surging problem at highway speeds last summer and the vss was the culprit. Fairly easy to install. Just brainstorming here. Also the tps is cheap and easy and also you could clean the IAC w/carb cleaner. That procedure can be found on the shotimes faq site.

 

[Mr.Xc]

To luigisho: By steady speeds I mean 4th or 5th gear crusing 40mph to 55mph with no stops encountered within the last 1/4 to 1/2 mile. I looked at removing the IAC motor for cleaning,how do you get at the lower bolt with out removing the upper intake ??
Thanks for helping.

 

[luigisho]

What I usually do is take the easy one out then rotate the unit foreward to get the lower one. It's kind of a pain but it beats buying the tool that goes all the way through the middle of the intake runners. While you're cleaning the iac look at the shotimes faq for cleaning procedures and clean out the passage in the throttle body.

 

[Shoman94]

Originally posted by Mr.Xc:
To luigisho: By steady speeds I mean 4th or 5th gear crusing 40mph to 55mph with no stops encountered within the last 1/4 to 1/2 mile. I looked at removing the IAC motor for cleaning,how do you get at the lower bolt with out removing the upper intake ??
Thanks for helping.

Its not the IAC since its not an idle issue. All the IAC does is control the idle. Unplug your TPS and hook a multi meter to 2 of the leads in OHMS. Very slowly increase the throttle with your hands and and watch the resistence change either increasing in value or decreasing in value. Depending on which wires you choose. Make aure the change is very steady in either direction. Any dipps in resistance will cause issues.



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'94 MTX Silver
Tokico Struts, Eibach Springs, Spmotorsports SubFrame Conn. 29mm ShoShop Rear sway bar, Shohop Cat back, Gutted box with K&N, '96 Brake Upgrade, White Face Guages.

 

[HuskerSHO]

The TPS threw 2 codes for me 124 TP voltage was highter than expected in the memory and 167 No throttle position change in the "goose" test during the key on engine running test. I also got 521 Wheel not turned during test or PSP problem. I don't hear any PS whines and it drives fine, loose driving slow and stiffens of at high speeds. I read there is a mod to disable the PS speed sencing, was wondering if this has already been done if it would throw this code.
Jim



[This message has been edited by HuskerSHO (edited 02-10-2002).]