Squishy brakes

[SHO4Buffalo]

About 6 months ago I had brake work done by way of new pads and rotors all around. I know I had something done w/ my brake fluid too, but I honestly can't remember what was done. In any case, ever since then my brakes have been very soft and squishy feeling. They stop my car just fine, but I really have to step down pretty far on the brake, and it feels as if the brake pedal could just keep on going down to the floor. I'm concerned because I really question whether my brakes would be there for me if I ever had to stomp on them quickly going highway speeds, I just don't have any confidence in that soft pedal.
Any ideas?

By the way, I've been lurking around this forum for a few months now, and I'm just amazed at the knowlege and helpfulness you guys exhibit. Very impressive indeed!

 

[ghostrider]

You could possible try and bleed your brakes. That might increase the stiffness in the brake pedal. Also would hurt just to check to see how much brake fluid is in there. Hope this helps.

 

[rfiltz]

Sounds like a bleed/flush is necessary. Does the pedal kind of "pump-up" if you keep pumping it? Get some Russell Speed Bleeders ($20 for 4) from Jegs.com and some ATE Super Blue fluid ($20 for 2 liters) from ShoNutperformance.com. Only get 1 leter if you don't plan on flushing the full system, but I would!

After that, go get some flexible clear pvc tubing (5/16" but not sure) from ACE Hardware to hook from the bleeder to your container. Just make sure you don't let the fluid reservoir go dry as you're pumping the old fluid out. Check it after a few presses to get the hang of how much is going out.

 

[rfiltz]

Just to be clear, the container I'm talking about with the hose connected to the bleeder is just some old ratty container for the old fluid. The new ATE fluid goes in the main reservoir under the hood!

 

[SHO4Buffalo]

Yes! The pedal definitely does feel firmer if I pump on it a couple times. That's actually how I've been braking as of recently as I can't stand that uneasy feeling of a soft pedal under my foot.

I'll look into doing the brake bleed/flush ASAP since the prices you quoted for the speed bleeders and the fluid are very reasonable.

So basically, I put in the speed bleeders, unscrew one bleeder 1/4 turn, then pump the pedal a couple times and watch for the brake fluid to come out. Then after a few pumps, check the fluid resevoir and add my new ATE fluid as necessary to keep the resevoir from running dry. Then rather, rinse, repeat until I've done all four. Sound about right? Oh yea, should the engine be running while I'm doing this? squint

Thanks for the help guys, your knowlege overwhelms me! thumbs_u

 

[jcostantino]

The engine has to be running for it to work, yes. You should do the right-rear, left-rear, right-front and left-front in that order... farthest line to closest line to the master cylinder.

If you're gonna bleed the brakes and install speed bleeders, buy some Earl's Hyperfirm lines from jegs.com too.

I don't think Jegs has the speed bleeders in our size but you can get them from speedbleeder.com

Jeff

 

[SHO4Buffalo]

Ok sounds good. I'll probably get to this next weekend, so wish me luck! I'll let ya know how it goes and maybe put up some pics of the speed bleeders at work.

Thanks again all. thumbs_u

 

[rfiltz]

I haven't put mine on yet from Jegs, so I don't know if they fit. I called my order in and they said the 10mm (I think, might have been 11mmm, better call) is the one for my '92. I also got the Hyperfirm brake lines (prices have gone way up though) Got mine for $59 and now they are $84 last I looked. The kit says it is for the '95, but it fits my '92 fine. Had to drill out the bracket that anchors it to the wheel well though. No big deal.

 

[rfiltz]

Forgot to mention, if you replace the lines, you might need help to get the nut off the old rubber line. Also get a brake wrench so you don't round off the nut (the one on the rigid tube). I had to use a mini butane torch to heat the nut up and it came off much easier. Also get some new crush washers to go on the banjo bolt (the one on the caliper). These are cheap either from the dealer or ShoNut.

 

[jcostantino]

The Jegs kit doesn't come with crush washers? Crap.. I'll buy them from the dealer for $5/each

Jeff

 

[rfiltz]

Don't remember if they were in the bag or not. I just got a bag of 7 from Shonut for $5.29.