Keep in mind there's shipping too. The Brembo rotors aren't slotted. With shipping you might be looking at $193 or so for 4 Brembo rotors front + rear for your 93. Looks like Autozone doesn't have lifetime warranty rotors anymore (better make a note of that Scott). But they have cheaper rotors than the Aimco: Valuecraft front -> $20 each and Valuecraft rear -> $25 each.
Rear brakes don't wear as quickly as fronts. If you have some pad material left on the rears I would just do the fronts to start with. It will be easier that way, less intimidation for you, and you can focus on getting quality materials where it really counts. The fronts do more than 75% of the braking. If you are going to hit any budget limits then I would get the cheapest autozone $20 front rotors from your local store and then spend the extra money on Carbotech Bobcat pads. Either get them from Carbotech directly ->
http://www.carbotecheng.com/main.htm or from Josh at shonut (he's a Carbotech distributor. He might be able to get you a slightly better price)
http://www.shonutperformance.com
The Brembo rotors aren't going to necessarily make much difference. If anything they might be slightly less prone to warping because of the higher quality castings. But all the quality in the world won't make up for the fact that the 93 brakes are too small for the size of the car. It's your call. If spending the extra money on the Brembos doesn't bother you then go for it. But DON'T get the Brembo rotors if it means that you will go with a lesser pad than the Bobcat to save money. Better pads are way more important right now than better rotors.
Replacing the brake lines is a good idea but if your lines aren't in immediate need of replacing (cracked or swollen or you know they're collapsing internally) then you can do them later. Pedal feel will be improved tremendously if you get stainless steel braided teflon brake lines. Besides pads those are the best upgrade you can do for your stock brakes. The Valvoline sythetic DOT 4 brake fluid is good and cheap. You can worry about using fancier fluid later. Chances are you'll find out later that you don't need a better fluid. If you do then ATE Super Blue is really good stuff. I would just start with Castrol LMA Dot 4 or the Valvoline sythethic DOT 4 for now. You'll need a Torx T-40 bit to remove the front caliper pins. You'll probably want a 3/8" drive bit. Do you live in the San Jose area? If so go to All Parts Auto and just plop down the $9 for a 5 oz tube of Sil-Glide Silicone grease. You'll need some silicone grease for lubricating various parts and although it's a little pricey, that tube of Sil-Glide will last you a very, very long time. I always buy the little 5 gram packets that are $.99 of either Permatex silicone brake grease or silglide and after picking up two more packets recently I realized that the $2 would have been much better spent towards a big 5 oz tube of Sil-glide. You'll also want a can or two of brake cleaner. The best is CRC brake cleaner in the red can. spray the friction surfaces of your rotors and pads before you install them to make sure those surfaces are grease free. Don't wash any of the silicone grease you've applied to the sliding surfaces onto those friction surfaces (or if you do, make sure to clean it up good with brake cleaner...hence the reasoning behind having an extra can on hand).
You'll also want a caliper piston compressor tool or you can just use your old brake pad and a really big c-clamp. A one person brake bleeding kit would be a nice thing to have too. Even better would be getting a set of Russell's speed bleeders or Earl's solo-bleeders. Get a set of those and you will never go longer than a year between brake bleedings because it's so easy. I think that's it. No more tools required to do the front brakes that I can think of. Other than the wrench for the brake bleeder screw. If you decide to change your brake hoses now you'll need flare wrenches to remove the brake lines. Also spraying PB Blaster on those connections you're going to take apart is a good idea.
Once you do the front brakes then you can worry about doing the rears. The rears require a special tool (which you can rent for free after leaving a deposit at autozone) that turns the caliper piston inwards. Also after you do the fronts and before you do the rears you can decide if you need/want to get new rear caliper pins, boots, and maybe brackets.
