SP Motorsports Brakes??

[SHOnOFF]

It looks like I'm going to have to do another brakejob soon. I did the front brakes on the ATX last week but I think the place that turned the rotors screwed them up because the whole front of the car shakes violently when braking lightly at 40+mph. I was looking at the brake packages that SP Motorsports has on their site. Has anyone bought them for their car (with the KVR rotors)? If so, how did you like them? What about the cross-drilled KVR rotors they carry? And finally, what about the zinc coating they can put on them to prevent rust/corrosion? I have the SVT rims and would like to have brakes that work well but also look good (Because they're pretty prominent when looking at the wheels). Any suggestions/experiences would be much appreciated. Thanks.

 

[DrEvil]

This might be a stupid question, but can you resurface cross-drilled rotors?

 

[SHOnOFF]

DrEvil:
This might be a stupid question, but can you resurface cross-drilled rotors?

Yes, but you have to take them to a place that has the right tool (lathe?) to do it. Most places don't have the right machine to do it...I had to drive a half hour away last year to get my cross-drilled rotors turned. They did it, though, and they did a good job (for only $9 each)! But yeah, it's possible.

-Brian

 

[Yamaha V6]

I have the KVR cross-drilled & zinc-washed 96 rotors on the track 91. The zinc washing helped for the 1st 6 months, then crapped out. The cross-drilling cools the rotors faster than non-drilled, but reduces the friction area of the rotor, likely bringing it back down to that of the undrilled 94/95, I'd imagine.

I have the undrilled 96's on the 95, and it stops just as well if not better than the 91 does, per single occurrence. The 91's seem to hold up a little better over longer periods of repetitive braking time, probably due to the heat dissipation.

 

[Freak SHO]

SHOnOFF:

DrEvil:
This might be a stupid question, but can you resurface cross-drilled rotors?

Yes, but you have to take them to a place that has the right tool (lathe?) to do it. Most places don't have the right machine to do it...I had to drive a half hour away last year to get my cross-drilled rotors turned. They did it, though, and they did a good job (for only $9 each)! But yeah, it's possible.

-Brian

How do you turn ANY rotor without a lathe?? shrug

 

[SHOnOFF]

Freak SHO:
How do you turn ANY rotor without a lathe?? shrug

No, that's not what I meant. What I meant was...the place has to have the correct TYPE of lathe in order to resurface cross-drilled rotors. Not every lathe can do cross-drilled rotors. That's why I had to drive a half hour away to get it done - I had to find a place that had the right type of lathe to do the job. Sorry if my other post was confusing.

-Brian

 

[SHOnOFF]

Yamaha V6:
I have the KVR cross-drilled & zinc-washed 96 rotors on the track 91. The zinc washing helped for the 1st 6 months, then crapped out. The cross-drilling cools the rotors faster than non-drilled, but reduces the friction area of the rotor, likely bringing it back down to that of the undrilled 94/95, I'd imagine.

I have the undrilled 96's on the 95, and it stops just as well if not better than the 91 does, per single occurrence. The 91's seem to hold up a little better over longer periods of repetitive braking time, probably due to the heat dissipation.

Fred,

Thanks for the response. Are you saying that your undrilled 96's warp? (You said they don't "hold up" as well as the drilled rotors on your 91...does that mean that they warp easier/sooner?) And secondly, is the "zinc washing" the same thing as "cadmium plated?" Just curious. Also, what pads are you using with the KVR rotors from SP Motorsports? Thanks again.

-Brian

 

[SHOfun 93]

I have had the KVR rotors on for about 2 years now, and noticed that they do begin to crack around the holes where the cross drilled area is. I likely am going to change out the entire front brake setup on the 93 to a 96 brake upgrade, or go with a set of TCE brakes to improve the durability and performance. Right before the 93 went down in the line of battle, I did notice that the rotors were emitting a bad "scraping" noise under moderate braking even with new pads.

 

[Yamaha V6]

No, not warping, I seem to have much more brake fade and less pedal pressure (pedal just about goes to the floor when hot, yet comes back a bit after cooling).

Put it this way, the brakes make me uncomfortable about half - 2/3 the way through the day with the 95, but toward the end of the day on the 91.

Pads: Started with KVR pads, also been using the Motorcraft pads. Last set before the Motorcrafts I just put back in were the Raybestos ones, I think. Lots of pad material left after Blackhawk & 2300+ miles getting there & back.

 

[Ian Macoomb]

I got my rotors cadmium plated (at the same place that KVR has theirs done). I put them on just before the convention and the plating is wearing off. It's still good around the hat of the rotor and the ends but they do show some rust especially after a washing. They still look better than a rotor with no coating.

I wouldn't pay extra money for the drilled rotors though. It takes me around 6 months to warp a set of rotors on my '97. From now on I go as cheap as possible and just keep changing the rotors every year.

 

[shobote]

I had a similar problem after getting mine turned; then installed a set of the undrilled SP Motorsports rotors on the fronts with PFC pads and am very happy; Even with the right lathe, Turning the rotors always degrades the cooling efficiency and integrity making them even more prone to warping; for around $50 bucks a piece, the SP rotors are the best investment to eliminate the problem and maximize braking efficiency.