So I test drove a V8 SHO earlier...

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AHowe0

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I've been looking at a black '97 SHO in town here for a while now, it's got 147k on the clock and they want $2500 for it. I'm sure I could talk them down even further seeing as how it did spin a cam back in 2004 with 111k on the clock. (http://v8sho.com/SHO/ChristopherNicolCamFailure447.htm) however I obviously have no idea if it was repaired (though I'm assuming it was, I don't see how it would have made it another 4 years and 36k miles with a spun cam?) I tried getting ahold of the previous owner to ask him but no luck.

Finally got around to test driving it today and it fired up fine no problem, nice rumble from the V8. Took it for a 10-15 minute cruise, no hesitation in the acceleration, smooth ride overall, no awkward noises anywhere that I could detect. Everything was going pretty good except the heat was kind of sporadic and on and off which I thought was odd. Then when I got back into the dealerships parking lot it just died and the gas light came on (gas gauge read 1/4 full). It started back up but I just thought it was odd. I have no idea what went wrong.

Can anyone help me out here? Theres another V8 SHO, a '98 with 117k for $3500 sale in town although the dealer is pretty jank. The used car market for these cars is really tough because you can never tell if the cams have been welded without taking the valve cover off (I have no real mechanical experience)

Here's some pics of the one I test drove, as you can see it's clean and in good condition in and out...:

http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/img_popup.jsp?car_id=256854691&photoIndex=0

I appreciate your help!
 

DaSho97

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very sharp looking car i dont know about the gas issue. how ever, i would stick with the 97 if the other dealer seams bad. you might be able to do some talk the price down a little. i would test drive both of them just to see if theres a different feel. but the 97 does look nice and it sounds like a better deal.
 

AHowe0

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Yea I'm going to drive the '98 eventually, there's also a nice Lincoln Mark VIII at another dealership that has my eye. Anyone have any idea as to why it died? Also the heat? Perhaps the cams never did get welded...again I wouldn't know though. Kinda frustrating.
 

AHowe0

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If you need to get the cams welded, plan on spending another $800. If you buy it and need to get it done, let me know.

- James

Yeah I know, and I won't have another 800 to spend, that's why I'm hoping it's already been repaired, and the fact that it died makes me uneasy.
 

jpSHO

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I think $2,500 is a little pricey. It doesn't have leather or the chrome wheels and it has 147k. I would keep looking around.
 

bacernate

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Did the heat come and go or did the blower motor quit.
If it's the heat on and off it's probably low on coolant, cracked degasser tank most likely.
As for the dying was it at a stop or coming to one? The idle control valve is probably carboned up from sitting, or the vehicles battery may have went dead sitting on the lot and that makes the ecm have to relearn parrameters like idle and a test drive isn't enough to reset it.
I wouldn't worry about it alot, if you can get it cheap buy it unless you can find one with welded cams with documentation.
 

bacernate

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Plus anytime you can find an 12 year old car in Iowa that isn't a rusted out pile your doing great. I'm originally from Des Moines and I love working on rust free cars out here in Colorado instead of snapping every bolt off you touch back there. Did get good with a torch though. haha
 

mustangracer91

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I'd really consider going outta state...the further south you go, the less rust you'll find, besides, there's some cheap sho's to be had outta state...I found one here in oklahoma they're asking only 1250 for it...its just red, and I wanted black, white or blue...
 

AHowe0

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Did the heat come and go or did the blower motor quit.
If it's the heat on and off it's probably low on coolant, cracked degasser tank most likely.
As for the dying was it at a stop or coming to one? The idle control valve is probably carboned up from sitting, or the vehicles battery may have went dead sitting on the lot and that makes the ecm have to relearn parrameters like idle and a test drive isn't enough to reset it.
I wouldn't worry about it alot, if you can get it cheap buy it unless you can find one with welded cams with documentation.

It was coming and going...kinda sounded like a cammed idling LS1 lol. My mom had the fan cranked all the way up cuz she was "sooo cold".

And I was coming to a stop when the engine just died. The battery was dead a few days ago and they charged it so I'm guessing that may have something to do with it as well. And yes so true about Iowa cars haha. Thanks for your help man.
 
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aarmel732

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Well, look for a car from someone on this board. I bought mine here and then you know and enthusiast owned it and maintained it well. That is how I knew my cams were already done.
 

AHowe0

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Well, look for a car from someone on this board. I bought mine here and then you know and enthusiast owned it and maintained it well. That is how I knew my cams were already done.

I need to trade though, and it needs to be even. And most guys on here aren't going to do that for a '92 Toyota Celica I'm assuming. That's the one time where stealerships come in handy.
 

FOMOCOTOSHO

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As far as the stalling out thing goes I agree with bacernate on checking the battery cables & possibly the idle air control valve. The crank position sensor could also give you those problems. Good luck
 

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