Storm-Chaser
New Member
If he does this, he could easily throw-away $100+ and not fix the problem.
Print this out and hand it to your dad when you get ready to start. This is not a recommendation on how you should repair your SHO, but how I would address the same brake issues if it were my SHO.
I would start by pulling the driver-side caliper that was already replaced and checking the condition of the slider-pins. If they're frozen or rusted and I'm able to get the pins out, I would try cleaning off all the rust. I've found a sheet of Scotch-Brite does a pretty good job of cleaning-up light surface rust - if the pins are pitted, I'd replace them. If in doing this it became apparent the pins were too far gone, I'd buy a replacement bracket for $16.49 at Advance Auto:
Regardless of whether the slider-pins were rusted or frozen, I would clean/replace the pins and pick-up a high-quality synthetic caliper grease - last time I checked it was $9.98 for a large 8-oz. bottle at most auto parts stores. I personally would use either Permatex (Advanced Auto - $9.98 for 8 oz.) or VersaChem (O'Reilly - $11.99 8 oz.) synthetic greases. While AutoZone carries CRC synthetic grease for $9.99, it is a dull black-gray grease compared to the green Permatex and blue VersaChem greases, which are semi-transparent and allow me to see when rust begins to develop.
I've found it takes little time to inspected and re-grease the pins during every brake service, even if the service is to simply check pad wear. It's cheaper insurance than an oil change....
Next, I'd pull the passenger-side caliper and check the slider-pins. Either cleaning/removing the rust or replacing as per above. The caliper has to be replaced - so if replacing the bracket, the bracket and caliper are availble as a complete caliper kit, but I would check to see if it's cheaper to buy them separately:
In pulling both calipers (one at a time), I'd look at the condition of the brake fluid that leaks out. Is it rust-colored, cloudy, dirty, contaminanted (particles suspended in the fluid), or clear. Make a note for later reference here.
I'd next, make sure the master cylinder is full and continue to check it as I went. I'd get a helper to lightly press on the brake peddle to see if brake fluid is flowing through the flexible hose. The following are generalizations I start with when initially trying to assess a brake problem. Personally, I would change the caliper, lines, and pads - but if I were trying to spend as little as possible this is where I would start.
If the fluid spirts-out like it's under pressure, break-lose the flexible rubber hose from the hard-metal line on the rear subframe rail and remove the flexible hose. I'd repeat the test to see if the hard-metal brake line is free-flowing, or appears restricted or blocked.
I'd then replace rear brackets/calipers/hoses as necessary. I'd pick-up a 32-oz. container of Prestone Dot 3 brake fluid at WallyWorld which is less than $4 a bottle, instead of wasting higher quality brake fluid until the brake problem is definitely corrected. Then I would re-bleed and flush the system with new Dot 4 synthetic fluid.
IN ADDITION TO THE RIGHT REAR CALIPER, I WOULD BUY NEW REAR PADS FOR BOTH SIDES. They're available with a lifetime replacement warranty for less than $20 ....
Print this out and hand it to your dad when you get ready to start. This is not a recommendation on how you should repair your SHO, but how I would address the same brake issues if it were my SHO.
I would start by pulling the driver-side caliper that was already replaced and checking the condition of the slider-pins. If they're frozen or rusted and I'm able to get the pins out, I would try cleaning off all the rust. I've found a sheet of Scotch-Brite does a pretty good job of cleaning-up light surface rust - if the pins are pitted, I'd replace them. If in doing this it became apparent the pins were too far gone, I'd buy a replacement bracket for $16.49 at Advance Auto:
Cardone Caliper Bracket (right/left rear, remanufactured)
Regardless of whether the slider-pins were rusted or frozen, I would clean/replace the pins and pick-up a high-quality synthetic caliper grease - last time I checked it was $9.98 for a large 8-oz. bottle at most auto parts stores. I personally would use either Permatex (Advanced Auto - $9.98 for 8 oz.) or VersaChem (O'Reilly - $11.99 8 oz.) synthetic greases. While AutoZone carries CRC synthetic grease for $9.99, it is a dull black-gray grease compared to the green Permatex and blue VersaChem greases, which are semi-transparent and allow me to see when rust begins to develop.
I've found it takes little time to inspected and re-grease the pins during every brake service, even if the service is to simply check pad wear. It's cheaper insurance than an oil change....
Permatex Synthetic Caliper Grease (part no. 24110)
VersaChem Synthetic Caliper Grease (part no. 26080)
VersaChem Synthetic Caliper Grease (part no. 26080)
Next, I'd pull the passenger-side caliper and check the slider-pins. Either cleaning/removing the rust or replacing as per above. The caliper has to be replaced - so if replacing the bracket, the bracket and caliper are availble as a complete caliper kit, but I would check to see if it's cheaper to buy them separately:
Cardone Rear Caliper w/o bracket ($42.96 / $50.00 core - unloaded, right rear, remanufactured)
Cardone Rear Caliper with bracket ($73.99 / $45.00 core - unloaded, right rear, remanufactured)
Cardone Rear Caliper with bracket ($73.99 / $45.00 core - unloaded, right rear, remanufactured)
In pulling both calipers (one at a time), I'd look at the condition of the brake fluid that leaks out. Is it rust-colored, cloudy, dirty, contaminanted (particles suspended in the fluid), or clear. Make a note for later reference here.
I'd next, make sure the master cylinder is full and continue to check it as I went. I'd get a helper to lightly press on the brake peddle to see if brake fluid is flowing through the flexible hose. The following are generalizations I start with when initially trying to assess a brake problem. Personally, I would change the caliper, lines, and pads - but if I were trying to spend as little as possible this is where I would start.
If the fluid flows easily, the flexible line is probably not collapsed.
If the fluid spirts-out like it's under pressure or not at all, the line might be collapsed.
If the fluid spirts-out like it's under pressure or not at all, the line might be collapsed.
If the fluid spirts-out like it's under pressure, break-lose the flexible rubber hose from the hard-metal line on the rear subframe rail and remove the flexible hose. I'd repeat the test to see if the hard-metal brake line is free-flowing, or appears restricted or blocked.
If the fluid flows easily from both the flexible hose and hardline, the flexible line is probably not collapsed.
If the fluid spirts-out like it's under pressure from the flexible hose (or not at all), but flows easily from the hardline, the flexible hose is likely collapsed.
If the fluid spirts-out like it's under pressure from both the hardline and flexible hose, the problem is upstream in the brake system, possibly in the ABS pump, master cylinder, or the lines themselves.
If the fluid spirts-out like it's under pressure from the flexible hose (or not at all), but flows easily from the hardline, the flexible hose is likely collapsed.
If the fluid spirts-out like it's under pressure from both the hardline and flexible hose, the problem is upstream in the brake system, possibly in the ABS pump, master cylinder, or the lines themselves.
I'd then replace rear brackets/calipers/hoses as necessary. I'd pick-up a 32-oz. container of Prestone Dot 3 brake fluid at WallyWorld which is less than $4 a bottle, instead of wasting higher quality brake fluid until the brake problem is definitely corrected. Then I would re-bleed and flush the system with new Dot 4 synthetic fluid.
IN ADDITION TO THE RIGHT REAR CALIPER, I WOULD BUY NEW REAR PADS FOR BOTH SIDES. They're available with a lifetime replacement warranty for less than $20 ....
you will have to click the link above, as I cannot get it to display the image... :banghd:
