Skipping at high rpm

[Big Mike 74]

I have pulled the plugs they seem to look okay their is only about 2,000 miles on them, I have a 2013 pp LMS 93oct 3 bar tune and catted down pipes. I have no check engine lights at all and it doesn't do it all the time seems to be mostly after driving around for a while and it heats up but when driving and flooring it from about 40 when it gets to the shift point around 5200 rpm and beyond it kind of just holds there and cuts out for 1-2 seconds before it shifts its not smooth like it used to be it gets like choppy. Maybe it's from the fuel cleaner I put in about 2,000 miles ago but I doubt it, I'm really getting frustrated with it because I had a friend in the car the other day and I was trying to mess around with a 5.0 and went WOT and he felt it and said why is it so choppy before it shifts? Driving normal its fine only happens at high rpm, also the car is only used on weekends and is parked during the week I'm also noticing more black around my exhaust tips than usual.....thanks for your help in advance.

 

[SHOdded]

Same behavior when returned to stock? Colder weather, longer idling time would lead to more soot at the tailpipe.

 

[Big Mike 74]

Same behavior when returned to stock? Colder weather, longer idling time would lead to more soot at the tailpipe.

Yea same when returned to stock just less aggressive, I don't want to start changing ignition coils or anything because I have no codes and all tests come back fine on the car, I don't know whether to run the car another thousand miles and see if it was because of a fuel additive or what

 

[SHOdded]

No codes set in PCM (don't go by CEL)? Which additive did you put in? That must have been what 6-7 tanks ago? If the plugs look clean (dry, no fuel smell, good color, no oil in plug well) and properly gapped (0.030), then the problem is not in that part of the system. Usually the 2013+ have a problem in:
A) Valve cover oil leak in plug well #3 (driver side, firewall side of engine)
B) Fuel injector Leak
C) Fuel pump (Low Pressure) or Fuel control module problems (HPFP issues are rare, but possible if symptoms present at a particular rpm)

Knock sensor wiring issues were fairly common in the 2010-12 SHOs, worth a check (though unlikely) for your SHO.

 

[Big Mike 74]

No codes set in PCM (don't go by CEL)? Which additive did you put in? That must have been what 6-7 tanks ago? If the plugs look clean (dry, no fuel smell, good color, no oil in plug well) and properly gapped (0.030), then the problem is not in that part of the system. Usually the 2013+ have a problem in:
A) Valve cover oil leak in plug well #3 (driver side, firewall side of engine)
B) Fuel injector Leak
C) Fuel pump (Low Pressure) or Fuel control module problems (HPFP issues are rare, but possible if symptoms present at a particular rpm)

Knock sensor wiring issues were fairly common in the 2010-12 SHOs, worth a check (though unlikely) for your SHO.

Well I put in a big bottle of techron, and shortly after that a lucas octane booster probably about 3 tanks later, yea I am going to have to pull the car apart further this weekend I hate that I have to do this on a 2 year old car I had a 2011 with the same work done to it and that thing never gave me an ounce of trouble traded it for this because I liked the 2013 + look and this had less miles but now I'm starting to regret it! Lol I'm wondering if seafoam should be used in the gas instead of any of that stuff

 

[SHOdded]

Neither of those products should have caused any problems, unless some sort of coating was left on the plugs, or a (carbon) clog broke loose somewhere. Relatively mild products even though "concentrated". Are you using an oiled air filter by any chance? Cleaned both MAP sensors with MAF cleaner?

 

[Big Mike 74]

Neither of those products should have caused any problems, unless some sort of coating was left on the plugs, or a (carbon) clog broke loose somewhere. Relatively mild products even though "concentrated". Are you using an oiled air filter by any chance? Cleaned both MAP sensors with MAF cleaner?

I have a k and n drop in filter, I haven't tried cleaning any of them yet I'll have to try this weekend to do it, the most frustrating part about it is, it doesn't do it all the time, mostly just when I have been driving for 20 mins or longer and just kick it down, as soon as it gets to the end of the gear it just stumbles then shifts, gets through the entire powerband fine until its almost time to shift

 

[SHOdded]

Hmmm. 20 minutes, in cold weather, is about how much time it takes for a trans to warm up in highway driving. The engine is in closed loop well before then.

No codes???

There aren't really any trans/axle issues other than the halfshaft TSB/recall and the ting/pop/click TSB. I still think fuel delivery might be where it's at. Try having the dealer run diags on the LPFP and the FCM.

 

[gladams]

I would try and see if the rev limit is at play. Try and do the same thing you have been doing, but keep the pedal down on the floor through the shift band. Then try it with the pedal just off the full throttle position. Might work might not.

 

[Big Mike 74]

Hmmm. 20 minutes, in cold weather, is about how much time it takes for a trans to warm up in highway driving. The engine is in closed loop well before then.

No codes???

There aren't really any trans/axle issues other than the halfshaft TSB/recall and the ting/pop/click TSB. I still think fuel delivery might be where it's at. Try having the dealer run diags on the LPFP and the FCM.

Yea I've got no codes stored at all, tranny shifts good, feels like a fuel problem to me too when it happens....I was hoping driving it around would make it go away but its proving not

 

[Big Mike 74]

I would try and see if the rev limit is at play. Try and do the same thing you have been doing, but keep the pedal down on the floor through the shift band. Then try it with the pedal just off the full throttle position. Might work might not.

I will try that as well, what's the proper rpm for shift when these are tuned does anyone know? Just so I can watch it and see.

 

[SHOnUup4]

Do not add octane boosters to the ecoboost motor...does not play well

Have you tried changing where you get your fuel from? Could be a bad batch of fuel?

Is this on the V9 tune by chance...few people have had this happen...the # grows everyday it seems

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

 

[SHOdded]

I will try that as well, what's the proper rpm for shift when these are tuned does anyone know? Just so I can watch it and see.

LME will be able to answer best in your case. It is usually raised a few hundred rpm, to 6K+. Also depends on whether the rev limiter has been removed and how "extreme" the tune is.

 

[Big Mike 74]

LME will be able to answer best in your case. It is usually raised a few hundred rpm, to 6K+. Also depends on whether the rev limiter has been removed and how "extreme" the tune is.

Yea I'm going to e mail them I believe this is the version 8, just took the car out after a week of sitting drive it normal for about 15 min and then an m3 wanted to play so I put it in sport mode because he kept wanting to do rolls and the car wouldn't shift on its own when I put it in second gear and floored it my 2011 didn't but I know this 2013 did.....idk I was very disappointed just now the car fell on its face a few times

 

[Big Mike 74]

Do not add octane boosters to the ecoboost motor...does not play well

Have you tried changing where you get your fuel from? Could be a bad batch of fuel?

Is this on the V9 tune by chance...few people have had this happen...the # grows everyday it seems

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

I believe it's the version 8 I'm going to e mail them tonight and see if we can change something yea the car has been sitting about a week and I just took it out tonight I'm going to run it back and forth to work for a few days.....the octane booster was put in about 700 miles ago

 

[SHOdded]

So you are not running 93 octane fuel on a 93 octane tune, Mike? Regardless, if the problem is still happening on the stock tune, it's not the octane level that's the culprit, imho. Could definitely be bad gas ...

 

[Big Mike 74]

So you are not running 93 octane fuel on a 93 octane tune, Mike? Regardless, if the problem is still happening on the stock tune, it's not the octane level that's the culprit, imho. Could definitely be bad gas ...

No I have run 93 in it since new.....just filled up from a different gas station this a.m. we will see if it helps.....my mpg is 13.7 as well right now lol

 

[13blacksho]

No I have run 93 in it since new.....just filled up from a different gas station this a.m. we will see if it helps.....my mpg is 13.7 as well right now lol

13.7?! Holy **** I thought my 17.2 was bad!!!

 

[SHOdded]

13.7??? You MUST be driving the new Rolls Wraith!

If you were running Torque Pro on Android, you could see what the Learned Octane Ratio is showing you (it's a custom PID figured out by ecoboostsho). Typically, it should be -1, which means the most timing available to the engine for optimum performance. If it is a more positive number, that means the SHO is reverting to lower octane spark/ignition tables to protect the engine.

 

[13blacksho]

13.7??? You MUST be driving the new Rolls Wraith!

If you were running Torque Pro on Android, you could see what the Learned Octane Ratio is showing you (it's a custom PID figured out by ecoboostsho). Typically, it should be -1, which means the most timing available to the engine for optimum performance. If it is a more positive number, that means the SHO is reverting to lower octane spark/ignition tables to protect the engine.

SHOdded, does the E85 blend keep that ratio down?
I've been running a 20% E85 on 93 Octane. I don't have the Torq pro yet so just curious.