Silver Gen 3 - Decision pending

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JohnKay

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Hi all,

Been a SHO guy since buying my first brand spanking "new" Titanium 89 Gen 1 - 220K and still runs. Since then I bought a 94 Gen 2 MTX back in 1999 - Runs great with 98K. However I've just started a new job that will take me 2.5 hrs drive through Washington DC traffic 1-2 week. Did the drive with my Gen 2 MTX a couple of times and aside from the increased wear and tear my freaking left knee will never be the same again.

So says I I'll find a better option....couldn't find an auto Gen 2 in really great shape so I have my eye on a 99 silver Gen 3 that's been owned from new with normal services every 3K. Older driver that had the 5 yr 75K ESP plan so anything through 75K was done like magic. The Cams have not been welded, the tranny shifts well but will need a flush, the tires are miserable - GY Eagle GSA's - front and will fit's on the rear...so these will need changing.


OK - Here's what's giving be doubts and I could use your thoughts : )

1 - Steering wheel spokes are off 2 inches to right...may just be in need of alignment since car doesn't pull.

2 - Front dash has 3/4 inch air space between it and the top of the instrument cluster....Ford Salesguy thinks this is from the sun over 10 years...maybe but could also be possible accident or other? Is this common...how to solve?

3 - Anti-reflection black cover on dash coming loose by the A pillars...is that normal?? edge looks like a wing flapping up and down on either side

4 - Front center console cover has been seperating from the padding and naughahyde...former owner tried to glue it back together...looks like X@#!@#.
Is this normal....Could hopefully pick up a replacement cover (grey).

5 - Seems to be a slight shade difference between the ground effects/front bumper vs the rest of the car - assume this is just sun fade difference between the painted plastic vs the painted sheet metal.

6 - Some minr surface rust passenger side rear wheel well....fixed 9 months back but bubbling again.

Anyhow the car has 113K on it and the Ford Oassis report incredibly showed 36 freaking pages of repairs (inlcuding LOF's) so it does appear that it has had everything it's needed to this point.

Your thoughts and suggestions are really appreciated. I am sure my wife will have my head in a basket if I put the 96 conti out to pasture and this turns out to be a money pit. :nut:

Thanks all,

Virago9577
 
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JohnKay

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Hi Ashley MTX - Good suggestion but just got off the phone with the original owner - 78yrs young....sounds very trust worthy..could hear him confirming details with his wife in the background. They bought the SHO new in 99 and apparently it hasn't had any high speed accidents...he told me it had been backed into a couple of times in parking lots and had the rt mirror snapped off - separate incident. Insurance co paid to have the repairs done at AW Golden - The GM Dealer in town. Tranny oil changed once...cams never welded....his comment was good car just old. Apparently where the rust is bubbling is where the fender was hit/repaired/replaced by A W Golden.

Forgot to mention the headlights are in really bad shape - yellowed....Anyone had any luck with restoration kits? :nut:

Virago9577
 
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Ashley_MTX

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There was one (restoration kit) that someone mentioned to me a few months ago...this is going to be completely useless to you though because I can't for the life of me remember which one it was. Sigh.

So yes- people have- I just don't remember which one.
 

JohnKay

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I saw a really cheap $$ kit at PEP Boys last night think it was just $15.00 or so. I may just try that if the deal goes through and post the results.
 

NebraskaSHO

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I have replaced both headlights with LKQ auctions for my 99. The 98-99's have a black inside of the housing. Not saying you will get as lucky, but these to me were professionally polished before they were put up for auction.

Sounds like it has had a rough life honestly.

DSCN0991

1. I just had my tie rods replaced as it was pulling to the right.
2. Metal dash heats up and the glue releases holding the dash pad off of it. Very common.
3. Are you talking about the splash shield under the wipers?
4. Again, it's a Taurus, and the console lids in the Junkyards I have found are all seperated.
5. If owner said the car had some dings repaired, I expect the difference to be from resprays. I had a good guy back home paint my bumper cover after my Ex rear-ended a Continental, and it looks good 95% of the time, but at times I can tell it's a touch off.
6. Yeah, the rear wheel wells, and under the "cladding" running along under the doors like to produce rust. Not nearly as bad as the Gen I and II though.

If the cams havent been welded, expect $1,000. Trans should have the filter replaced, and all fluid changed. But it could really go at any time.
 
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venom

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Hi all,

Your thoughts and suggestions are really appreciated. I am sure my wife will have my head in a basket if I put the 96 conti out to pasture and this turns out to be a money pit. :nut:

Thanks all,

Virago9577

All your issues sound fairly routine, yep the rear wheel wells is where the rust starts first it seems - both my Gen III's are doing that..... The proper adhesive will repair the armrest and the dash above the ICP. I haven't seen the anti-glare problem you describe however.

Sounds liek it was parked outside a good deal. Our 99 was obviously parked outside for the first few years of it's life. The gear selector orange tab has a "P faded into it that you can see if you look when you are in Neutral or whatever. it had that already in 2002 with 35K on it when we bought it.

Fill the ATX fund since it is a SHO with an ATX so 'nuff said there...
 

JohnKay

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Think I got the wife's go ahead...not necessarily a blessing but as close as i'll get. She probably figures it could be worse...I could buy something newer or more $.

3 - Anti-reflection black cover on dash coming loose by the A pillars...is that normal?? edge looks like a wing flapping up and down on either side (This is inside the car...right up against the windshield...it extends all the way accross the dash - kind of like a veneer - flat black maybe an 1/8 thick. Think I could glue it back down....ditto with the console cover. All in all for 3K and a 1 yr safety I just may go ahead with it. See if the wife wakes up on the right side of the bed! Really like the headlights NebraskaSHO - maybe I'll be as lucky..hope so. I sent an email to the SHO guy who recommended Sunbury Motors (Fd Dealer) in Sunbury, Pa to weld the cams....See if they held up ok...called and left a message with NESHO but haven't heard back yet...likely tomorrow...it will be a 5 hour drive to their facility and with my luck the cams will let loose did I say "no warranty-as is" on this puppy!:nut:
 

JohnKay

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Venom - Anything terribly special about the SHO atx.....figure on *** $ ? My guess would be +/- 1g?? I also have an 82 GL500 Silverwing....second owner...17K and running strong...keep it up in Canada most of the time along with an 82 XS1100 Midnight Special.
 
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three50one

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You have a SHO guy here. I mean Reading is a 2 hour drive or so, but I'm willing to help if you do end up getting it and have any problems. I can't weld the cams, but I know my way around the engine bay enough.
 

JohnKay

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Thanks three50one - Thought you'd be from Cleveland~ Yer right Gettysberg isn't that far away and I'm sure I'll find my way into something unexpected sooner than later...so stay tuned. Last weekend I moved stuff around in the garage enough to get the 94 SHO in....drill out the transmission to drop the tranny fluid, tap the tranny with threads and install a plug..filled with new mobil 1 ATF, then just because I was bored changed out the steering fluid and replaced all with you guessed it Mobil 1 ATF - Then still bored and nothing on the boob tube replaced the fuel pump with a Walbro bought from Shosource...removed the rear seat, used a dremel with a 1" cutter wheel and cut out a 6 x 8 steel door directly above the fuel pump...just cut three sides complete and put a good deep crease along the front making it possible to fold the "flap back, changed the pump then pushed the flap back into place and then used Miracle muffler cement to seal the three cut sides...worked like a charm. The Gen 3 "surprise issues" will likely serve as an excellent encore!:snicker:
 

NebraskaSHO

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There shouldn't be any "black" anti glare mat on the dash. If there is, I would imagine it was added. The dash should be Dark Grey. There is a plastic piece that runs the width of the dash, but it is not black.
 

1madSHO

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of all those concerns I would find minor...

the major concern for your consideration on purchasing a GenIII would be the cam. If its is an elder gentleman odds are he never knew or even thought about it... I'd ask the guy if he welded or had previous issues with it. If he hasnt and you buy it... WELD ASAP!!! I learned the hard way.
 

JohnKay

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Asked him whether he had had any engine issues and whether he had had the cams welded and he said none....said I seemed much more knowlegeable about this model than he was. I will try and reach NESHO again today. My email to the guy who recommended Sunbury Motors bounced back....must have changed email addresses....may just call Sunbury and see if the same service mgr still there.
 

warmonger

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if the rear wheel wells are rusty i'd go ahead and peak underneath it,chances are pretty good that the rockers are shot too. 3k sounds a bit high imho.
 

SHOZ123

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It's rumored that a treatment of Future Floor wax will fix the headlight hazing.
 

Daedalus

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Hi all,
OK - Here's what's giving be doubts and I could use your thoughts : )

1 - Steering wheel spokes are off 2 inches to right...may just be in need of alignment since car doesn't pull.

2 - Front dash has 3/4 inch air space between it and the top of the instrument cluster....Ford Salesguy thinks this is from the sun over 10 years...maybe but could also be possible accident or other? Is this common...how to solve?

3 - Anti-reflection black cover on dash coming loose by the A pillars...is that normal?? edge looks like a wing flapping up and down on either side

4 - Front center console cover has been seperating from the padding and naughahyde...former owner tried to glue it back together...looks like X@#!@#.
Is this normal....Could hopefully pick up a replacement cover (grey).

5 - Seems to be a slight shade difference between the ground effects/front bumper vs the rest of the car - assume this is just sun fade difference between the painted plastic vs the painted sheet metal.

6 - Some minr surface rust passenger side rear wheel well....fixed 9 months back but bubbling again.

I bought a "new" '99 Silver Frost car this last summer. Here are my thoughts on your questions.

1. Steering wheel off-center can be easily corrected by an alignment. Mine was the same way when I bought it.

2. Every Gen3 car (SHO and non-SHO, Sables) that I've ever seen has this issue. It can be corrected yourself pretty easily, I think there are instructions on v8sho.com.

3. I don't think a separate anti-glare cover was stock. My car doesn't have one. The surface of the dashboard closest to the windshield is textured so as to be non-glare inducing.

4. I haven't seen this on a SHO but it wouldn't surprise me. There are always guys on this site parting out Gen3s, and since there were only 2 interior colors, you should be able to get a replacement pretty easily.

5. My front and rear bumpers, along with my side mirrors, are definitely lighter in color than the rest of the body. I think your assessment is correct - the paint fades differently on the plastic. The touch-up paint that matches the hood looks badly out of place on my bumpers.

6. I'm afraid I got a California car, so I know nothing of this thing called "rust."

I paid $2000 for my car, with 130k miles, worn out suspension, busted passenger side mirror, torn driver's seat leather, worn out ball joints and TREs, bad alignment, torn engine mounts, and unwelded cams.

EDIT: When I got mine, it had some shifting issues I was concerned about. I replaced the engine mounts and that helped a lot. Then I did a poor-man's transmission flush (replacing the fluid with Mobile 1 synthetic ATX fluid), changed the filter, and added an external cooler. It shifts like new now, a huge improvement.
 
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