SHO CE help

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LiLGhettoSmurf

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SHO CE help *update*

For the last 2 days every once in awhile my check engine like will come on, the car will drop about 500 rpm, between 5-20 seconds later the light will turn off and the rpm will go back.. my buddies say it might be a sensor, so I went to Auto Zone to get my codes ran and the lady had no idea how to run the thing so another worker helped her, and the thing was just a thing that beeped and you had to write how many times it beeped down, it was not one with a print out, and she said that the codes that had came out meant nothing and that I should go pay some one to run a diagnostic on it, I looked at the paper and she wrote down 114, and 111. They mean anything? And any one have any idea whats wrong? Thanks for the help
 

projectSHO89

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Got to http://www.shophoenixproject.com/eec/eec.htm to learn how to pull your own codes with nothing more than a paperclip. There are also lists of all the possible codes with descriptions.

114 indicates that the intake air temp (IAT) sensor was out of range. If the ambient temperature was below 50 F, this code should be ignored.

When you run your codes, make certain you understand the three classes of codes: Continuous (stored/memory), KOEO (immediate), and KOER (dynamic). It is sometimes necessary to differentiate as to when a code is generated.

The CBT test may also reveal some interesting information, be certain to run it also.

All that said, I suspect that your car's problem will likely be one of two things: a faulty IAC valve or a fault in the ignition system which causes two of the cylinders to intermittently drop out.

Hopefully you can induce the failure while testing so you get accurate diagnostic data.

Any codes you get, try SEARCHing for them and my username using the Advanced SERACH tool. I've covered many of them in detail over time.

Steve
 

LiLGhettoSmurf

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ok, got it to stay on and rushed to auto zone to do it again here are codes with translation, whats wrong???

216 (M) Primary circuit failure - ignition coil 2 - Ignition Systems

528 (M) System shows voltage at pin 10 (is A/C on ?) or pin 30 (PNP, CPP switch) - PNP

542 (O,M) Fuel pump open, bad ground or always on - - Power / Fuel Pump Circuits
 

projectSHO89

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The really important fault code is the 216 code. This indicates that the computer is seeing a loss of two cylinders, both fired by the same coil.

This, in the past, has typically been a result of one of the following:

Defective coil
Defective DIS module
Intermittent wiring connection at either module.

Inspect the rear-most DIS connection. Make certain it is not making physical contact with anything. If it is, that is a sign of a failed subframe bushing that has allowed the engine and subframe to "drop".

Ignore the 542.

As for the 528, let it be for now. It might have been the result of the AC being on, the clutch pushed, or a faulty clutch pedal position (CPP) switch. In any event, it is unlikely to be related to the abnormal driving conditions.


Steve
 

LiLGhettoSmurf

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My friend took the info to the BOCES auto mech guy in a town near me and he said its either something to do with the thing on the left side of the intake manifold (the wiring attached to the side) or the wiring on the thing below the air filter, I have no idea what they are called and I dont have the wire plans for each one because my friend has them. But he said it might be the Inertia control module , and I remember when I ran the diagnostic and one of the things that came up is if their was a faulty one. If you guys have a pic host I can circle the stuff im talking about and post it.
 

projectSHO89

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That thing on the left side of the intake is the DIS module.

The thing near the air filter is the coil. It has the plug wires plugged into it.

No such thing as an "Inertia control module". There is an inertial switch that cuts off power to the fuel pump in the event of an accident, but it is located in the trunck. There is no evidence presented that it is at fault. As previously mentioned, ignore the 542 code.

Wiring digrams are available for download in the Electrical forum. Help yourself.

Steve
 

SHOslyter485

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I think the "wiring on the thing below the air filter" that he is talking about is the air temperature sensor. If you look at it, it has a little red ball at the end of it. Its a pretty obsolete sensor, so if that is actually the problem, its probably nothing too serious to worry about yet.
 

LiLGhettoSmurf

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Ill take a picture of the wiring diagram of the DIS module, and what the auto mech teacher said might be the problem. Ill get it from my friend tomorrow.
 

Rockledge

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I agree with Steve, figure out the 216 code first.

Here's a wiring diagram of the SHO DIS system:

DISDiagram.jpg


If you look on the DIS module itself (on the sides where the electrical connectors plug in), you will find PIN numbers that correspond with the wires as shown in the above diagram.
 

LiLGhettoSmurf

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doh, I went the wiring diagram for the flat thing below the air intake that has a bunch of wires that run into it.. my friend was at work today so Ill get it from him while im at school.
 

LiLGhettoSmurf

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I finally have some money so Im taking it to my mechianic tomorrow. Also does this make any sense to you guys, Its cold here in NY right now and so I usually warm it up for 15 mins, but its still in the cold temp of the temp guage, and the CE light usually comes on then, but when the temp needle gets to certian degrees the CE light will turn off/wont come on.
 

LiLGhettoSmurf

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Well took it to a shop, a mech I know helped me fix it, well... I watched mostly.. :) so we got a new coil pack first because two of the cylinders weren't giving sparks to the plug wire, but when we put the new one on it kept doing it, so he contacted his ford buddy and asked about it and the guy said like some of you have said its most likly the DIS module because thats what controls the coil pack and even with a new one the 2 dont have sparks, he went to call to order the part but they did not have any, im just going to order one and have him put it in. We put the old coil pack on because the new one that was suposed to fit a 93 SHO 3.0 engine didnt even fit right, the prongs went in fine except the thing that holds the connector in was in a different spot, so it wouldnt stay on. Do you guys still think its the DIS Module, if it is im considering this one, tell me if you think otherwise, or have other sugestions. http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?mfrcode=NIE&mfrpartnumber=FF424&parttype=194&ptset=C
 

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