SHOtimer
#2910
How much can the SHO heads be planed or shaved. I know they can't be shaved much, but I can't seem to find a specific amount.
Thanx, Doug
Thanx, Doug
Shaving SHO heads
- Thread starter SHOtimer
- Start date
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Ishodu
SHO Member
I am not sure the amount either, I have seen it somewhere. Maybe it was .002". I bet the reason Ford said they can't be was because of the timing issues that will result. Adjustable cam sprockets can fix that.
Hey
Back in the day, we used to have Headgaskets punched from copper (to keep it simple), to compesate for the shaving
I have been searching for months to find a custom set, I just might have to make them myself.
Anybody have a link for a 3.0l
Later
MGEN
Back in the day, we used to have Headgaskets punched from copper (to keep it simple), to compesate for the shaving
I have been searching for months to find a custom set, I just might have to make them myself.
Anybody have a link for a 3.0l
Later
MGEN
Ishodu
SHO Member
Copper head gaskets are a PITA. You will need to keep Torquing them all the time.
strings1732
RMTE-TRBO-SHO
I had my 3.0 heads shaved .005 when I installed them on my new 3.2 block. It was just to get them resurfaced from a possible warping issue. They ended up not being warped but they were heavily pitted from the stock headgasket, so I had them shaved anyway. Not a single problem and the motor has been turned without a timing belt on it so it's still not an interference motor.
Ishodu
SHO Member
Your going to have timing issues. You are running a DOHC motor. You just changed the distance between the crank and the heads. This will upset the timing.strings1732 said:
strings1732
RMTE-TRBO-SHO
It's working fine..... I've been running it now for about a week of some pretty hard driving. It has not got a single problem and runs really well. I've had a problem with my spout now for about a year. It seems to think it's unplugged and drops 10 Degrees BTDC no matter what. I have traced the wires, not any problems. I have checked the resistance in the plugs and still not a problem. My next thing is to replace the pcm. I have a spare so it's free to do so. Also that whole .010 of an inch will maybe cause the timing to be off a whole 1/10th of a degree, if that. I'm not really worried about it since it runs fine and there is not a problem with it....
edit, I forgot to add that I'm running nitrous now so the extra security of the timing retard is not a bad thing. I should be getting a tweecer soon so I can set it up and tune it properly without having to worry. and since it is a newer timing belt, it will account for the "stretchiness" that the belt will incur in it's lifetime...
edit, I forgot to add that I'm running nitrous now so the extra security of the timing retard is not a bad thing. I should be getting a tweecer soon so I can set it up and tune it properly without having to worry. and since it is a newer timing belt, it will account for the "stretchiness" that the belt will incur in it's lifetime...
60kmaintenance
New Member
You have to use a special sealant, I'd have to go find my bottle of it... It's a sealer for airplanes some thing another..... That with copper gasket = no problems ever.
SHO green like$
New Member
Are you refering to Hylamar sealant?
It's used on aircraft, it's blue gooey and never dries.
It's used on aircraft, it's blue gooey and never dries.
pjtoledo
'ol man in the SHO
Ishodu said:
Planing the heads won't cause much of a timing issue if you don't cut too much off. An entire millimeter cut off each head would only change the timing by 1 degree on the front head, about 1.5 degrees on the rear head. Those are cam degrees, crank degrees would be double that. It retards the cams.
Ford specs about .008 or .010" as the max cut.
Perry
strings1732
RMTE-TRBO-SHO
Perry, was that per head or total for both? If I had .005 shaved off on both heads it's still only .010 total so it shouldn't matter but I figured I'd ask.
Like I said before, the belt will stretch more in it's life time than the total .010 of an inch that I had shaved off. So if I replace it sooner, I should be perfectly fine.
Like I said before, the belt will stretch more in it's life time than the total .010 of an inch that I had shaved off. So if I replace it sooner, I should be perfectly fine.
rangerj
Active Member
Per Ford via Helms Manual (1990 section re 3.0 L SHO engine):
CYLINDER HEAD
"Replace the head if it is cracked. DO NOT PLANE OR GRIND THE CYLINDER HEAD GASKET SURFACE. (In Bold Black print) Remove all burrs and scratches with an oil stone.
That having been said, you can get head gaskets with added thickness to make up for a planed head. The belt tensioner should pick up the belt slack. You should "degree" the cams and may need off-set keys to correct the cam retardation Perry mentioned. The combustion chambers should also be cc'ed to restore the compression ratio (lower).
Note: When checking the block deck and/or the cylinder head gasket surfaces a "machinest straight edge" should be used. DO NOT use a framing square, metal edged ruler, or some such thing to make precision measurements.
CYLINDER HEAD
"Replace the head if it is cracked. DO NOT PLANE OR GRIND THE CYLINDER HEAD GASKET SURFACE. (In Bold Black print) Remove all burrs and scratches with an oil stone.
That having been said, you can get head gaskets with added thickness to make up for a planed head. The belt tensioner should pick up the belt slack. You should "degree" the cams and may need off-set keys to correct the cam retardation Perry mentioned. The combustion chambers should also be cc'ed to restore the compression ratio (lower).
Note: When checking the block deck and/or the cylinder head gasket surfaces a "machinest straight edge" should be used. DO NOT use a framing square, metal edged ruler, or some such thing to make precision measurements.
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