SFC installation q's

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fricker66

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Have a favor to ask of those who are more familiar with finding old links. I'm finally getting around to having a set of SFCs installed and am searching for the "old" writeup that GregR had posted along with step by step photos. There used to be a section for modifications to the SHO and several users had taken the time to provide step by step instructions. I also recall in that same section that Fred Hurder provided instructions for the PP ypipe install. Anybody happen to know if those writeups are still available? Sure could use the SFC instructions! Thanks guys!
 

fricker66

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Solved

Guess all I needed was a little more patience. I found this link in one of the archived SHOForum links in the SHO related open forum.
SFC install
My question still stands though, are these writeups still part of the current forum?

Bizzy?
 

luigisho

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I haven't reread the stuff but install is very simple. Do you have shorties or full length? Be careful of the fuel lines when welding and look at lining up the one side with being able to change the fuel filter in mind. I would change the filter and if it can't be positioned with any extra room you might want to remove the loop shaped piece used to tie down the car on transport trucks to give more room to access the filter. You'll see what I mean when you get under there and eye everything up.
 

fricker66

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I have the long SFCs. Taking it to a reputable welding/chassis shop for the install. I've already discussed the fuel filter issue along with the fuel lines. Guess we'll see how things go when we finally get them in place for welding. Thanks for the tips.
 

Yamaha V6

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I think I still have that on my personal site...

http://members.cox.net/fhurderjr/howto_y-pipe.htm

problem is, the pics are gone now.

Anyway, basically, MTX, you can leave the O2's in place. ATX, you have to remove O2's before Y-Pipe removal, and install after.

• Disconnect O2's from harness (ATX, remove O2 Sensors)
• Remove Spring Bolts (ATX doesn't use spring bolts) from end of Y-Pipe / Cat-Back system
• Remove Y-Pipe / Exhaust Manifold Stud Nuts (4, 2x each downpipe)
• ATX - loosen nut on side of transaxle (pass. side) that holds the bracket to the ATX. Remove the bolt on the bottom that holds the Y-Pipe to the ATX.

Out they come.

PP Pipe's cat flanges were very close to the subframe - I found I had to cut one back on an angle to avoid hitting the subframe.

SHO Shop's pipe (equal length, 5-piece), remove the oil drain plug & replace with another shorter plug.

Notes:
be careful of the Y-Pipe / Manifold stud nuts - you are likely to break them if they're rusted badly, so use some good penetrating oil, PB Blaster, etc. & let it soak - use liberally & repeatedly. Having the studs back out of the manifolds is better than snapping the studs off. Buy 4x studs, 4x nuts just to be safe. Oxy-Acetylene is your friend.
If you live outside the rust belt, you suck, and this doesn't apply to you. ;)
 

fricker66

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SFCs installed! Noticeable stiffness in the body. Only thing that surprised me is the very noticeable increase in NVH in the cabin. Never thought that would occur from the SFCs. It's acceptable but wasn't something I had planned on. Pics will follow shortly.
 

luigisho

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A little more noise but they really tighten everything up. How did you get around the fuel filter replacement problem? Is there enough room to do the next replacement by hand?
 

fricker66

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Yes, the passenger side connector was positioned so the next fuel filter replacement should go without any interference.

I guess I was most shocked by the increase in vibration considering I don't have solid SFBs. Like I said, it's certainly drivable but does add another layer of volume inside the cabin.
 

luigisho

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My car was so loud and ran like crap when I had them installed so I really didn't notice a big change. :D
 

fricker66

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NVH Solved!

Well, that probably accounts for some of the difference then! The PP ypipe with the stock exhaust has stayed pretty quick. It's really more of a noise you "feel" vs. hear. I'm going to take another looksee underneath to make sure nothing else is contributing to this change. The SFCs are enjoyable! Big difference on the cloverleafs!!!


Sure enough, the exhaust hanger by the rear driver's side door was weak and allowing the exhaust to rest on the top of the connector. This in turn was causing the exhaust vibration to be sent through the entire body of the car! I'm sure I'm not the first to have this problem. But keep an eye out for any such interference on future installs!
 

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