SFB install questions

[Bizzy]

I'm out on my back following the guide that kurt metros has about how to intall SFB's. I ran into 2 problems.

1. My damn fron SFB bolts won't come undone. I've sprayed them down with PB blaster, even on the part that is inside the "frame" and they won't budge. I'm tempted to take it to a garage with airtools.

2. I can get the rears to drop, but I can't get the top part of the bushing to let go and get the **** out of the way. seems that the metal plate that the rubber sits on is fused to my subframe. I tried using a jack to push it up and out and it ends up lifting the car. Again I'm thinking I need a garage but one with a lift this time so I can get under and whack the things out.

Is the hole in the rear of the subframe just a hole, or is there a lip formed for the bushing to slide into? If any one has any pics of a subframe with out a bushing in it, could you post or email them to me as I'm getting quite frustrated. I'm about to pay someone to do this install for me.

Hit me with thoughts or something cause I'm about to just go bolt the old ones back in.

 

[Bluto]

As far as #2 goes, there are some 10mm bolts holding the upper part on.

The rest I'm not sure. I am replacing mine on Saturday.

 

[cRaZySHO.]

Seeing that we are from the same area, and have the same miles, our install should have been the same. But when I did mine, I took them out with a 1/2" drive impact gun, with no PB Blaster. They dropped right out. And you shouldn't have the 10mm bolts on top. It should just be the large single one through the middle. Try the impact gun again, with a higher setting.

 

[Bizzy]

ahh see the impact gun is what I don't have. The rears come out fine. but the fronts won't budge. Perhaps I can swing by a shop that will only charge me a few buck to break them free with some air tools. I really think that my rears are fused to the subframe from the rust. I wonder if maybe I should buy a cheap impact gun, then I have to buy impact sockets then too. Hmmm I'd still love to see a pic of a subframe hole so I can make sure I'm not trying to remove anything I should be.

 

[Chris Kauffman]

netviper:
ahh see the impact gun is what I don't have. The rears come out fine. but the fronts won't budge. Perhaps I can swing by a shop that will only charge me a few buck to break them free with some air tools. I really think that my rears are fused to the subframe from the rust. I wonder if maybe I should buy a cheap impact gun, then I have to buy impact sockets then too. Hmmm I'd still love to see a pic of a subframe hole so I can make sure I'm not trying to remove anything I should be.

The hole should be ***** when your done with it like this, my 94 SHO had 4 10mm bolts on the top of each bushing, but only the passenger rear was a ****** F'er to get off but it still took me less than 45 minutes for the entire procedure, get your ratchet on there and use a breaker bar, that wil probably be the only way to get it off unless you have an air gun, I hope the pic helped, and hopefully you get them bloody bushings on, don't give up, and good luck

 

[Bluto]

One more piece of advice.
Go here for instructions.
And yes you should have 10mm bolts holding the top half of the bushing plate up.

http://www.shotimes.com/php-bin/modules.php?op=modload&name=News&file=article&mode=thread&order=0&thold=0&sid=182

 

[Bluto]

Netviper,
I just changed mine this morning, if you still have question e-mail me. I took a couple pics.
-Carl

 

[RI-SHO]

Since there is going to be a high chance many things are rusted on the new SHO I have, will I need 2 Isoliator kits from Ford like SHOTimes states or will 2 new recall kits include the same nuts/bolts?

 

[Bluto]

The recall kits will have the correct bolts, and new nuts for the rear.

They are cheap about $15 a kit.

BTW, I have never used PB Blaster until this project. Soak the bolts with PB, it works great.

For the front bolts you will find a small hole on the side of the sub frame to spray them down.

 

[Bizzy]

I have been soraying my front bolts with PB Blaster every day for 3 days now. Hopefully it will help make it so they will break free without air.

RI-SHO-Just about every dealer has the recall kit in stock, I picked up one locally just in case i needed it. $16.57 with tax.

 

[twr]

Here's a picture of Shonut's Aluminum SFB.

<small>[ April 20, 2003, 04:59 PM: Message edited by: twrsho ]</small>

 

[Bluto]

You need two kits!

 

[SHOZ123]

When I did my fronts on the '93 at 150k it was the worst two weeks of my SHO ownership. I had to break the driver side bolt. And then chisle the smaller bolts off. I replaced both nuts with new ones which turned out to be rather easy even though it looks to not be.

If I were to do it again I would just break the bolts and use new kits.

 

[RI-SHO]

You have the part # for the recall kits?

 

[ShoGuy93]

twrsho:
Here's a picture of Shonut's Aluminum SFB.

Is that pic with the recall kit installed???

 

[Bluto]

Looks like new hardware.

The kit also includes nuts, and rubber plugs for the floor board.

 

[SHOZ123]

Part #E6PZ-5A364-A

When I used them I didn't use the big flat washer included. Only the bolt and special nut.

 

[twr]

ShoGuy93:

twrsho:
Here's a picture of Shonut's Aluminum SFB.

Is that pic with the recall kit installed???

Yes it is - However my car being a 95' it already had the updated bolts and nuts.

 

[Bluto]

I would use the big flat washer.
Other wise you are tightening a hardened steel bolt into alluminum at 100 pounds of torque.

The bolt and the washer should make the combo more durable.

Thats just my two cents.

Also grind down the raised shoulder on the flat large washer for a better fit.

 

[RI-SHO]

What is the recommend TQ for the AL SFB's? 100 max?