Scratchin my head....

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Eric VerValin

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Ok... so the SHO has been a little rough sounding at idle when I fire her up... this has been a gradual thing over the past 200 miles or so...

My mechanic friend was driving around with me the other day and was thinking it was my plugs. So then I got to thinking... why? I've only got 20,000 miles on the plugs / wires since I built this motor. But maybe with my 10-15 trips to the redline a day... maybe it could be the problem.

Then I started thinking... maybe its the coil end.... has anyone here used one of those spark plug tester / gapper / checker... (don't know what you call it) Glass tube, has a screw in it... open screw to see how far the spark jumps.... I was thinking of using that little guy to see if all the "outputs" of the coil were jumping the same distance. I have 3 coil packs here, running the oldest of the 3 now... but I don't want to swap it if its not necessary.


At any rate... the only code I ever get is 225, and the one for my LPM. Haven't ran them today but I will on my way back home.

Now let me ask you all this about timing and that 225 code. I have an LPM, and I don't know how this affects initial startup, but I was thinking.... when the car first starts.... doesn't the computer advance the timing to 10 TDC or whatever... then when it settles down, doesn't it try to pull it back as far as possible (within reason) until she pings, then bumps it up a degree or two and calls it "set". Or is this a constant thing that is always changing.

I know it can change while driving, but I guess what I'm wondering is does the computer figure out a 'base timing solution' when she first fires up. Or does it adjust to what it sees all the time.

Only reason I wonder is because once the car warms up, it idles a lot better.. or closer to what it should be. Maybe it is the KS or a short in the wiring... if it never seen a signal, wouldn't it retard the timing all the way... making me idle rough....


Just sounds like / reminds me of how my old truck sounded when the distributor needed a bump in the right direction. Had to do that every major season change.. lol each 20 degree difference would kinda force me to re time it. Funny thing there is.. the timing marks never lined up ... had to time it by ear... :) Yay Fords....
 

CademiaX

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I have the same issue I think, its not a bad rough idle by any means. Just a little off. Interested to see what everyone thinks.
 

Janice

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I've notice this with my also and I don't have a LMP. It just seems to be a little off or rough.
 

CademiaX

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Chevron premium for me. With a little lucas in it. but the rough idle is why I put it in.
 

Janice

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I know that I need to clean my intake, just wonder if this could be causing the problem. Maybe I need to put fuel injector cleaner in my gas.
 

boat

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What about the idle air control? Could that be a contributor to this issue? I don't think you only have 20k miles on your current IAC. Probably more like 200k miles+.
 

walser

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i have the same problem. . with my SHOSource chip in it idles like a v8 with a huge duration cam. but once it warms up is settles down.. and once i take the chip out its much better, but still does it.. and when its cold i can hear the intake inside the car, even when at idle or driving nice, it gets almost obnoxioulsy loud, but i like it:swing: and once it warms up it goes away... and i run the shell 91 with v power. it has the fuel system cleaner already in it.. or so they say.. and no place in my town sells 93!
 

Eric VerValin

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I replaced every hose I could find, and added some real stainless steel clamps too I might add.. so that shouldn't be it... Fuel injectors haven't been cleaned and balanced, but I did throw a new set of seals on those too.

Maybe the leak is when they are closed and leaking into the cylnder? I don't know how they can leak.. :)
 
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That's what I meant. If the pintle or the seat has crap on it, it may not seal well, causing a minor leak. That may make it run rough until the gas has burned off. Pretty rare occurence, just throwing ideas out.

As for the vacuum leak, I was thinking more along the lines of manifold bolts, etc. Maybe check the torque on them/retorque?
 

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