Runners and Lower intake cleaning

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ok i did a search but didnt find straight answers

I am in the middle of tearing down my engine, to insulate the rear coil pack wires, and i figured while im there to do some cleaning.

so i noticed the lower intake where the butterflies are looked real dirty, so i am guessing i should clean them, also my runners are pretty dirty with carbon and some oil, so here are my questions.

1. what should i use to clean them, as i have a lot of stuff in my workshop(thinner,brake fluid, maf cleaner, etc)? do i use the same stuff for inside the runners and surge tank?
2. how would i actually clean the butterflies it self?
3. how do i wire the secondaries open? is there any benefits to this?
4. what should I not do?

I appreciate the help thanks
 

SuperHO

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don't use the kitchen sink or dishwasher...your other half'll have a shit fit. i used dish soap and degreaser to clean mine. as to wiring em open, just squeeze open the throttle lookin thing on the end of the lower intake and zip tie it. reset your battery and enjoy.
 
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already used the dishwasher for precleaning so i got that out of the way, can i just removed the butterflies itself or will that cause some kind of problem? can i use a dremel or is that a no no?
 
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E1 v2

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Some folks remove them from the engine and spray them down.

Best cleaner I've found is Berryman's B 12 Chemtool. AutoZone sells it, so does WalMart.

I just hold open the secondaries and take a 2" x 2" terry cloth square wetted with Berryman's, hold it with a hemostat (some folks call it a roachclip) looks like a locking scissors/pliers used by Dr.s - about $3.00 at your local flea market - and then wipe out the secondaries. Keep changing the little cloth scrap until the runner is clean and move to the next one. Saves from having to remove the Lower Intake Manifold from the car.

Whatever you do - DO NOT SPRAY THEM DOWN IN THE ENGINE. You'll get runoff into the cylinders and damage your engine. A LITTLE cleaner in the engine won't hurt a thing - reference Auto RX - but 4 to 6 CANS of cleaner on top of the pistons would be a disaster.
 

SHODWN

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Yeah you could use a tampon too and fill it with cleaner and move it in and out in a sexual manor..

Or you can just remove 10 bolts, disconnect two hoses and clean it the "right way".
 
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Yeah you could use a tampon too and fill it with cleaner and move it in and out in a sexual manor..

Or you can just remove 10 bolts, disconnect two hoses and clean it the "right way".

lol are to talking to me?

it was already removed, used a dremel to remove the built up carbon, cleaned it with degreaser, now its back in the dishwasher for rinse
 
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Yessir. It'll actually be more accurate this way.

I am about to do this and i want to be as accurate as possible so let me know if i am correct
1. put compressor in sprakplug hole
2. hold throttle wide open
3. bump starter
4. do this 5 times
5. if pressure is low put a teaspoon or coventional oil to see if it rises

is this all correct?
 

SHODWN

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Pete, screw in the compression tester and turn the key for a bit..

But first go to the trunk and hit the fuel pump cutoff. this way there is no fuel getting to the rail assuemeing you reconnected it.

It was Epic! Wasnt it!
 

jimtash

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I just did this. You'll need to remove the LIM completely from the engine. Buy the B-12 Chemtool in a can at the auto parts store to clean it with. It eats that stuff off quickly. Keep spraying, soaking, and wiping it until everything is clean moves freely.

The butterflies on mine weren't the problem though. The shaft itself was stuck and triggered the check engine light when two butterflies didn't close all the way.

If your cable and secondary system are functioning correctly, then there's no need to wire it open.

Save yourself some time and trouble and buy a set of o-rings for the fuel injectors. You'll need them and the cheapest place is Advance Auto Parts. They sell a kit that does four injectors for around $4.00. Napa wanted the same amount per an injector. The reason I say this is I damaged one of the top o-rings removing the fuel rail and didn't know it until gas started spraying out when I thought I was finished.
 
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after i put it together, i painted the gaskets and threw them on while they were still wet, how long do i wait before i start up the car? should i wait a couple hours until the paint on the gaskets dry? or can i just start it up and go? thanks
 
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ok i took it for a ride threw 2 codes 1. p0171 so i take it i have to replace front o2 sensor

then i threw a new code p1518. i did a search and looked at my car. apparently the butterflies stay open when i hit 3400rpm, i had to push them back after they opened, never happened before. it is probably because i wired them open when i threw them in the dishwasher i guess they kind of froze that way.

so if i just wire these open, how would i get rid of the code?
 

SHOMEX

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so if i just wire these open, how would i get rid of the code?


Just unplug the connector in the IMRC box and that will do it.
 

pascofan92

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What did you notice when you zip-tied the butterflies open? More off the line power? Fuel economy decrease? is it worth it for a daily driver?

Thanks,

Alaric
 

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