Rpms Still drop and car will die

[layinthesmack31]

Well hey guys,

I had my car in to a good shop around the area here because the rpms on my car would drop and it would stall out and not want to run. One time it was even bucking really bad. So i took it to the shop they tried a new DIS and let me drive it and it still did it after a day of testing it. Then they werent sure and they couldnt get it to stay running so they could test the cam and crank sensors so he tried a new ignition coil and then the car fired right up and ran great. When he tested the sensors they both gave great readings and he said that they dont really get much better than that and he wanted me to drive the car for a week and see if it still did it. So i did and it was great car ran fine started fine and everything. Payed the place thinking it was fixed and now last night the rpms dropped again and it stalled on me when i was driving and i got it in my driveway and it stalled again and wouldnt stay running unless i pushed down on the throttle and kept it revved. Like i said the tach bounced around alot and even one time went to 0 when the car was still running. Which makes me think it is either the cam or crank sensor. What do u guys think? i tried to give as much info as possible so to assist u in discovering the problem. Please any help would be greatly appreciated because i want to get this fixed and not have to worry about it anymore. thanks

Matt

 

[musiccitysho]

It sounds like what my 93 was doing when the IAC needed to be cleaned or replaced, in my case I was able to get away with just cleaning the plunger portion with some carb cleaner.
The part of your post that says it will only idle when you manually feather the idle is what leads me to the IAC being faulty.
Go to shotimes.com for the cleaning procedure under care and feeding or run a search here on "IAC"
Try pulling the jumper prematurely when reading the KOEO codes and go and start the car, it should start and idle ok. It worked with mine temporarily so that I wasnt stranded and could get it home to fix.
It could be other things but with no codes posted we can only speculate. If pulling the jumper prematurely works than then the problem is most likely the IAC.
The part where you mentioned that the car was running and the tach was not registering could be a separate issue and related to the CID.
Again only speculation without any codes posted.
Hope this helps

 

[layinthesmack31]

Ok i just pulled the codes

here is what i got
111
211
212
215
216
217
332
556

These were all stored in memory so i kinow they are new since it got back from the shop because they told me they cleared the codes for me. Just thought i would give more info.
thanks
Matt

 

[musiccitysho]

I didnt have any of those codes with the faulty IAC or CID. I havent had any experience with ignition or spout codes ...Sorry

 

[AutoSHO]

You need to check your DIS grounds. Make sure both bolts in the intake crossover tube are installed, and that the ground strap on the passenger side rear corner of the intake is connected and secure.

Is your intake manifold painted?

 

[layinthesmack31]

no it isnt painted and i had a new DIS already swapped onto it and the problem still occured. i will try to clean up the connections but i just want to figure out what the main problem is so i cna take care of it because the SHO is my daily driver. thanks

Matt

 

[AutoSHO]

Make sure all the 5.5mm DIS Screws are snug. Typically when its throwing that many ignition related codes it is a bad ground for the DIS module causing the problem.