Rotors..........

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SHO Type U

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DigDeez said:
Bedding?

...Caliper Bolts is what holds the caliper to the caliper brackets on the 93ATX. Are caliper bolts the same thing as slider pins?

Read the two post above u.

The caliper bolts onto the knuckle on the pre '94-'95 SHOs.
 

DigDeez

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SHO Type U said:
Read the two post above u.

The caliper bolts onto the knuckle on the pre '94-'95 SHOs.


Yeah, I know! But can't the knuckle and the caliper brackets be the same thing. The caliper brackets are part of the knuckle!
 

SHO Type U

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The brake pads "sits" on the caliper bracket. Your rear brakes has caliper brackets, take a look.
 

SHO-93-ATX

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You are supposed to put a non directional fiish on the rotors even out of the box, unless it states so. but most rotors are pre- fabs by the company, and machined, and dont take time to put a non directional finish on them. This means that the lines from machining, to the pads would ware much quicker...
and glaze your rotors. If you want to put a non directional finish, get some real light brushs that go onto a sander, and brush them into a circular motion.
 

SHOMA

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Hey, just a thought, I dont think anyone's mentioned it. Do the 96 11.6" brake upgrade, itl be one of the best things for your SHO! All you need is 94/95 spindles, 96-99 SHO Rotors, and 96-99 SHO Caliper BRackets. The Calipers themselves can be from a 94 or 95. email me if you want the parts. :thumb:
Kevin
 

TankII

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1) Replace your REAR pads with Semi-Metallics MINIMUM. Take some of the braking stress off the front. Replace your rear slider pins as well.
2) Use NAPA or Raybestos 1year warranty rotors.
3) Replace your strut-rod bushings all the way around. If these are bad, you will get the feeling of warped rotors.
4) Bed your brakes. I usually find a development nearby with a large hill and ride them down it several times. Once they get hot, get the car up to 55 on an empty road and hammer the brakes until you really smell them. Drive home and let them cool with the e-brake in the OFF position.

Works with PFCM and Wagner Thermo-Quiets quite well.

TankII
 

DigDeez

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TankII said:
1) Replace your REAR pads with Semi-Metallics MINIMUM. Take some of the braking stress off the front. Replace your rear slider pins as well.
2) Use NAPA or Raybestos 1year warranty rotors.
3) Replace your strut-rod bushings all the way around. If these are bad, you will get the feeling of warped rotors.
4) Bed your brakes. I usually find a development nearby with a large hill and ride them down it several times. Once they get hot, get the car up to 55 on an empty road and hammer the brakes until you really smell them. Drive home and let them cool with the e-brake in the OFF position.

Works with PFCM and Wagner Thermo-Quiets quite well.

TankII


Very good info here.
 

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