Roll Cage a SHO??

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x-tream

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has anybody put a roll cage in there SHO? I have built a lot of cages for other cars and was wondering if anybody has put one in there SHO. if so do you have any pics? thanks
 

Hack

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A number of folks have full welded in roll cages. Quite a few more have Rickety's bolt in roll bar. The Rickety bar is no longer available other than pre-owned. There are pics of Mark Nunally's SR-71 SHO floating around as well as Mike Courtney's track car. Maybe someone will post a link.
 

91taurisho

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As soon as I can get a tubing notcher I'm building a rool bar to my specs(friend has a tube bender i can use). I'll put in a bar for the 5-point harness and it will still be able to accomodate rear passengers. They may have to crawl around a bar but that's life for ya. ;) Plus, if they don't like it, they don't need a ride! :D I'll be making it a bolt in roll bar that goes over the drivers head(a little behind) with a cross bar for the 5-point harness'. it will haveabout a 45 degree angle or so(maybe) for the rear bar that will attach at the bottom of the rear strut towers, directly behind the rear seat. I will be bracing that to the floorpan. I will be bolting the hoop to the floor pan as well. I think that should be good for now. If you find any pics/design plans that would help please let me know so I can start the fabricating. Also any suggestions are welcome to me as well(not to steal your thread:D)
 

x-tream

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No worries man. if you are looking to still use the rear seat take the back bars and go straight back along the headliner and then down at the same angle as the rear wndow and through the speaker holes. works awasome in other cars. for side bars going forward if you look around you can find some swingout kits that turn it into a swing, so you just pull a pin and it works like a door. its even NHRA legal. as for mounting to the floor it is easy er if you mount a steel plate first and weld the cage to it. you can bolt the palte down but ther isn't much use becasue you can't take it out after you weld it in anyway. just a hint for welding the back bars, if you make your cage to fit with the headliner in , then remove it for welding you should have enough room to weld all the way around. and if you know some that can tig weld it looks awsome compard to mig. if you need any more help let me know, i have been building cages for about a year now. later man
 

91taurisho

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In my brothers car he just put the bar down through the seat. he just pulled the seat away from the bar and forced it back into place around the bar. I don't want something that will come up front at all. I only want it to be a 4-point roll bar(2 points at rear of front seats and 2 at the rear strut towers). I may do like you said and curve it like the roof so I can get in the rear easier. I'd just cut the holes out in my package tray. That may be the easier way to go. I'm planning on bolting it in so I can remove it if I need to. I'll have to cut it apart but I won't have to cut the unibody to get it out. I'm going to try and design it to where I can just bolt in the main hood and the rear bars and then weld them together. Would that work well?
 

x-tream

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Yeah you can definatly bolt everything to the floor. it will still stifen up everything that way. The 4 point isn't as stiff as a 5. but it all depends on what you are looking for. as for going through the seat it is up to you , your not sitting there any way. but yea it all sounds like it will work. good luck and let me know if you need any help.


but as for a mill machine, that is probly to much money for the avg. budget. we have a Pro Tools notcher and it works awsome, only takes a few seconds to notch a piece and can do up to 60 degree angles. we mount are's in the vice and it works great.
 

91taurisho

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I was looking at M-Tech Supply's HSN-501I Tubing notcher. It's $285 and it can do up to 60 degrees as well. I think it's basically the same thing as what you have too. It can notch prebent tubing and offset notches in the side of tubing. I'm wondering though, What is the difference between a 4-point and a 5-point. I mean, where does the extra bar go? That's the one next to the driver's door, right? I may eventually do that but for now a 4-point should suffice. I'm thinking I'll go the way of the package tray. It will be easier for me and I won't have to break the back seat. It'll also be easier for people to get in that way. I think it may even be a stronger bar in a rollover(the back won't crush as easy). What do you think?
 

SHO--ripper

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I had a yellow SHO parts car that had a roll cage in it because it was a circle track car. The body was shot.
 

SHO--ripper

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x-tream said:
has anybody put a roll cage in there SHO? I have built a lot of cages for other cars and was wondering if anybody has put one in there SHO. if so do you have any pics? thanks

I was saying that SHO's have had roll cages. Especially the yellow ones :burn_out:
 

91taurisho

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SHO--ripper said:
I was saying that SHO's have had roll cages. Especially the yellow ones :burn_out:
And this is relevant how?:D

I was kidding and you know it! ;)


Although... Those yellow ones do have bragging rights! I'm wondering though... Gold is a shade of yellow too right? :cool: I love my mocha frost!
 

x-tream

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Ya your back bars sound like they should be fine. as for the 4 and 5 and even 6 point goes, The main hoop that goes over and behind your head is 2, the two back bars are another 2 that is 4. now the 5th and 6th and attached tothe main hoop as well and are usually mounted at the same hight as the crossbar. ( the bar you mount the belts on to ) and then goes down to the floor by the driver and/ or passengers feet. are you wanting this to be NHRA Legal?? if you want you can always check out Competiton Enginering and look under roll bars , roll cages and they have a bunch of stuff there. here i made it easy for you: http://www.competitionengineering.com/catalog/CategoryDisplay.asp?CatCode=11006


i will get some pics of cars i have done and try and send them to you. later man
 

91taurisho

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I'd like to see some pics if you don't mind. I'd like to have it NHRA legal. I'm not Too sure what is legal with a roll bar, but just in case I ever need to know, I guess now is as good a time as any. I appreciate all your help! Thanks a lot!
 

x-tream

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Yeah no problem i should have the pics on my comp by tomorrow or so. Without having the rule bokk infront of me for some of the dementions this is what i can tell you. :

-1 3/4" round tubing min. .120 wall .134 recomended ( can get chrome molly specs if needed)
-allbars must be welded to a plate on the floor of the car
-The plates must be 6"x6" plate 3/16" thick
-In a unibody vehicle the plate must either be welded completly on all sides or bolted to another plate underneath with a min or 4 gr.8 3/8" bolts ;
If the vehicle came with a full frame (ex:55 chevy) the cage must be attached to the frame.
-all welding must be done with a mig or tig (chrome molly must only be done with tig) all welds must be slag free, and grinding of any welds is PROHIBITED.
-The cross bar must be even with or no lower then 6" below your sholder, an not higher then the sholder.
-the driver side front bar must pass in between your sholder and elbow. (a swing out is allowed)


i will get the rule book from the shop tomorrow and type out some other things. keep in mind this is if you are running under 11.99sec 1/4 mile.

but no worries on the help man this is why the forum is here, for things like this.
 

91taurisho

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My brother's cage has a cross bar(on corner to the opposite corner) and shoulder(kind of like an x) bar bolted into his and it's no longer legal because he's too fast. He doesn't have the driver's front bar either(he only has a 4-point). I'll probably do something like what he has but not bolted in. There won't be the cross either, more of just the shoulder bar. What does the rulebook say about the back bars? Does it say it has to a be a minimum degree away from the main hoop? does it say they have to be so far apart or anything like that?

Thanks again!
 

x-tream

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No the rule book doesn't say anything about the angle of the back bars or were they have to be placed. I read over the book and the only thing that i can see that might apply to you is the roll bar must be with in an inch of the side pannels, and door. that starts mkaing it pretty tight to weld. most tech's don't check for that , just as long as the driver is surounded, like your sholder isn't sticking past the bar. other then that you should be away. good luck and i will try and get some pics up here soon.
 

91taurisho

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That shouldn't be a problem as I will bend the hoop and then put it in, take it out and weld plates to the bottom. Then put it in and weld in the rear bars. I may even be able to twist the cage once I've tacked it together and be able to have more room to weld with. I think(with all interior pieces removed) I should have ample room to weld in it. Thanks again!
 

kmetros

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x-tream said:
if so do you have any pics? thanks

Here is a pix of the one that's in my car. It's one of the 12 or so Rickety units in existance. It bolts to the stock mounting points for the shoulder mount and bas for the front seats and the rear seat clips (all have to come out and only the bolt holes are used.

90cage.jpg
 

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