Rod bearing job done (almost) pic.

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Detenator

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Hey
I just crawled out from under the car after sealing the oil pan. Im sure many of you have saw my recent posts as to how to do this job. And for those of you that havn't done this job yet, here are some encuraging words: It isn't impossible. hehe anyway. I would like to convince a few people (dad) that this job was in fact necesary.

<img src= "http://www.sinc.sunysb.edu/Stu/pczyz/rod.jpg"</img>


This is the worst of the bunch. 4 others were simmilar. And the other 8 showed not much copper but a lot of streaks from friction.

So please chime in and let me and pops know how necesary this job in fact was at 137k. i will post back again and let everyone know how it drives tomorrow.

<small>[ August 01, 2003, 12:04 AM: Message edited by: Detenator ]</small>
 

NotSoSlowSHO

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Is that a pic of an upper or lower bearing?

The wear seems typical of what Ive seen lately. And yes, it is very good insurance to do them when you did. That particular bearing has pretty good wear.
 

Detenator

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I honestly don't know but i will assume upper. I yanked them off, threw them in a pile and put the new ones on.
Another thing i should have added earlier. What do i listen for after putting it back togheter? I havn't had time to put the Y pipe back on because i busted a few studs, so what im gonna do is let Midas take care of it tomorrow. There was way too much noise from the exhaust to even hear any noises from the inside of the engine.
Besides, how much would a shop charge to drill out and replace a few exhaust studs?

<small>[ August 01, 2003, 12:08 AM: Message edited by: Detenator ]</small>
 

NotSoSlowSHO

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Detenator:
What do i listen for after putting it back togheter?
So you have already fired it up?

Did you "prime" the oil system first? I simply disconnected the DIS and cranked her over till I had good oil pressure after my rod bearing replacement. Then I reconnected the DIS, and fired her up.

As to what too listen for, just listen for any unusual knoises from the bottom end. If you hear and ticking, knocking, or tapping from the oil pan then you have issues. Otherwise, you are good to go thumb
 

Detenator

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Yep of course i primed it by cranking it witn the dis disconnected. Anyway, I took it to Midas today and all they did was took off those broken studs, 4 studs took an hour and a half.. Freakin rip ofs anyway i wasn't about to let them get any more of my money so i took the car home bought new studs and was about to replace the y pipe and it started pouring. Another day without the SHO, im about to go mad.. oh well, on Monday i will tell everyone how it sounds.
 

unterhausen

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Detenator:
... i took the car home bought new studs ...
Where did you get the studs? Any info on them? I have struck out buying studs at 2 autoparts stores so far. One of mine came out with the bolt, and I figure that putting it back in is asking for trouble. I'd rather not wait until a ford dealer opens on monday.
 

Detenator

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I just went to autozone.
Ask them if you can walk behind the counter where they keep all the nuts and bolts. open up the drawr where they keep the exhaust studs then look for the metric ones. i believe that the tread pitch is 1.50 just find a nut that fits over your own, and use it to find one of theirs that it also screws into nicely. Or just press the 2 studs (old and new) into eachother to see if the threads match up. 10 bucks will buy you 4 studs 4 nuts for the front and 2 large bolts and 2 nuts for the back. good luck. They are made of rather high quality metal, and shouldn't break next time you plan to change them. (hopefuly not soon)
Then, when you get home, get an open ended spaner, and a deep socket. Put 2 nuts on the long side of one of the studs. Jam the 2 nuts together tightly, then slip the both of them inside the deep socket, and use that (allong with a comfortable extension) to screw into the manifold. Then when that is tight, you can slip the socket off of one of the nuts and twist it off, then the other.

<small>[ August 05, 2003, 10:10 PM: Message edited by: Detenator ]</small>
 

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