Rod Bearing change out with pics

[speedysprocket]

Here are some pics from the recent rod bearing change. The engine was a little noisy on startup and sure enough there is quite a bit of wear. I have all the new bearings in and torqued to spec, but I cant find the torque specs for the plate that spans across the bottom of the crank - the procedures online dont seem to have the specs either. Anyone know what they might be?

Here are the old ones after 162,000 miles!

 

[boat]

Was that from an ATX or MTX? Looks like you got it in time and the bearings did their job. Thanks for sharing.

The Ford Service Manual disc I have, for the oil pan baffle, tighten to 11-17 lb ft.

 

[speedysprocket]

Great - thanks for the specs.

As for the bearings - they came out of my 93 MTX. You can see the #2 bearing is the worst, but no heat checking on the journals, no spins, etc.

I've only owned the car since 158,000 miles, so the history is spotty but the crank looked fine, surfaces were smooth and no grooves on the journals.

I am going to put it back together again with a magnaflow ypipe, then to the top 60k so by then it should be ready to go another 150,000 miles.

 

[boat]

Keep up the great work.

 

[JRA2000TL]

Will have to check this thread again when I get home--work computer won't DL embedded images.

I just did mine this past weekend as well. My bearings were original and had 255k on them. I will post pics of mine as well; would be interesting to compare the wear on them at almost 100k difference. Mine actually weren't that bad. The ironic thing is that the engine looked really good inside for 255k miles. He kept up on his oil changes....just let the rest of the car go to ****.

As for the torque specs, I mainly focused on the rod caps...I think 24 ft/lbs the 1st time and 35 ft/lbs the second (or close to that); the baffle and oil pan, I just tightened (but not over-tightened).

 

[itwonder]

Looks like expected wear for the mileage, except for #2 which is a bit ugly. Glad you changed them when you did. Good job!

 

[rubydist]

yup, good thing you decided to change them now rather than waiting.....

 

[speedysprocket]

boy the oil pan was a b*tch to get back in place. Even though I did a few test runs, it was still a PITA. But I got it. And replaced the side pan seals while I was in there.

Found a pinhole leak in the new y-pipe (thankfully, before I put it on) near one of the 02 sensors, so I had it welded up today. Should go on tomorrow, I just hope I have enough threads left on the exhaust manifold studs. There's about a 1/2" left and I really want it to line up so I dont have to mess with stud replacement.

 

[JRA2000TL]

Put some anti-seize on those stud threads in case you have to go back i there. By all means, any little thing you can do to make life easier next time. I had a b*tch of a time getting my oil pan back on too. In fact, I had to bend the motor mount back a bit to get it back in place. As a result, my lower bolt holes didn't line up, I said F-it and left that bottom bolt out---well guess who now has a loose motor mount? I'll be bending it back into place later this week, lining up the holes, and reinstalling that important bolt.

 

[speedysprocket]

Well now Im up the creek.

The flanges on the new magnaflow ypipe grab the studs at a place where the threads have rusted away. I already contacted my old shop teacher, and he's going to help me out as he has a mobile welding shop. Hopefully we can heat the exhaust manifold enough to break the bond and screw them out. Will be nice to have new studs in there in the event I have to go back in for some reason. Are they M 10.5?

Also, the ypipe support that should hook to the oil pan bracket doesnt line up. Not sure if I can bend it might have to cut it off and re-weld. I think the guy who put this pipe together was a beginner.

 

[JRA2000TL]

Studs are M10x1.5.

Thank Area 91 for this....go to the Help! section at your parts store and look for part # 03101.

Here they are http://www.dormanproducts.com/p-542-03101.aspx

Dorman says on their site it doesn't fit, but those that have successfully used them beg to differ. They have it labeled as a GM compatible part, but it works for our cars. They also have those spring bolts for the rear if you want them too.

Oh and maybe I'm the king of half-assing stuff, but I left that stupid bracket un-done...once that Y pipe is bolted on there with 6 bolts, 2 front studs, 2 mid studs, and 2 rear spring bolts--it's not going anywhere. In fact, my bracket wasn't bolted down when I went to remove the pipe.

 

[220ksho]

Well now Im up the creek.

The flanges on the new magnaflow ypipe grab the studs at a place where the threads have rusted away. .

If you still have threads near the end of the studs, you can stack some washers on the ****** to get your nuts in a good grabbing location.

 

[JRA2000TL]

..... to get your nuts in a good grabbing location.

Sorry but I lol'd

 

[220ksho]

..... yeah, that was (semi) on purpose.

 

[speedysprocket]

Had my old shop teacher stop over with this portable torches, applied some heat and with much effort, the old studs are out. Thank god for the vice grip. Cant wait to go for a test drive with the fresh bearings and high flow y pipe. gonna be great. Nitrous will be next

He really saved the day. I thought I was going to have to pull the manifolds. Charged me $50.00 but well worth it. Headed over to Advance auto to pick up the kit. Its $8.00 for 4 studs and 4 nuts (insert joke here)

lol

EDIT: Also pulled the T-Cat out of storage and fired it up for the first time in a few months. Cant wait for snow!

 

[speedysprocket]

Picked up kit "03133" from Advance Auto, actually includes 6 studs, which are 1/4" shorter than stock, but still have the same amount of actual threads on them. Identical otherwise. Will put them in tonight and bolt everything back together + pics.