Road Noise, Vibration in Steering Wheel, Shudder at 60mph+

[User'96]

Hey all!,

Didn't know if anyone had any experience with issues similar to this and if these issues might all be related to the same part / problem?

2015 non-PP just under 60k. I've noticed that my car has started to idle rough, especially when cold, has developed some road noise that sounds like it's coming from the rear left wheel, that there is a lot of vibration coming through the steering wheel, and that at 60+ mph there is an oscillating sound coming from the same spot as the road noise.

Transmission Fluid is fresh, PTU and Rear Differential Fluid is fresh, Engine Oil is fresh, no CEL or any errors / codes showing up at all. No perceived loss in power either. Tires rotated 500 miles ago and alignment done at the same time.

I'm at a loss and my mechanic doesn't think anything is wrong with it. I have power stop drilled / slotted rotors and am wondering if those may be causing it or if it might be a wheel bearing on the way out?

Any help or information is appreciated. Thanks!

 

[SHOdded]

certainly sounds like bad rear wheel bearings. idk if your MY is affected by bad toe links but i would check into that also.

if you go with new wb, i suggest skf, national, timken, oem, or kyoto in descending order.

 

[Texas Marauder]

Agree, sounds like a bad wheel bearing.

Non PP is not affected by the toe link recall. Check for recalls here:

Recalls | NHTSA

Use our VIN lookup tool to check for recalls on your car, or search by make and model. Also, get recall information on car seats, tires and equipment.

www.nhtsa.gov

Rough idle could be dirty injectors or carbon build up on the intake valves.
Try a bottle of this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003JTYGPO

Use a borescope to check the intake valves for carbon build up.

 

[Joshw0000]

Vibration at a certain speed could be as simple as speed balancing the wheels.

Sent from my SM-S928U1 using Tapatalk

 

[kryptto]

 

[SHOrod]

There may be a few issues, but I'd start with swapping the front wheels and tires with the rear wheels and tires to see if anything changes. I would not expect rear wheel bearings to be felt in the steering wheel. That would typically be associated with and issue on the front, such as a tire with a separated belt (which could also explain the noise), a bent wheel, or something in the steering, front drivetrain, or front suspension that is worn. If swapping the wheels and tires between the front and rear has no effect, then it's probably not a wheel or tire issue and you can shift your focus to steering, front driveline, and suspension components.

Since these cars have electric power steering, the rough idle would likely be unrelated to the vibration in the steering wheel and road noise. If the power steering were driven by a hydraulic pump, then the rough idle could possibly be felt in the steering wheel as well. Since it doesn't sound like the engine idle is a safety concern for stalling, I'd suggest you figure out the steering/bearing/suspension issue first as that could be a safety issue.

I'll also mention that noises as heard in the cabin can be telegraphed and seem to be coming from an area completely different from where you think they are. If at some time you have others in your car when the noise exhibits itself, ask them if they can tell where the noise is coming from. Someone in the back seat may swear that it's coming from the front. I had a rattle that I swore was coming from my rear sunshade but I couldn't dampen. Then one day I asked my son and he said the noise was definitely coming from the front. We then thought it might be from the grab handle on the passenger side. But when he sat in that seat he felt the noise was coming from the overhead console. That turned out to be very accurate. The issue was a wiring harness in front of the sunroof and above the headliner opposite the passenger sun visor that was bouncing against the top of the headliner. I wrapped a bit of speaker box carpet around the harness and the noise never recurred.

-Rod