Replacing the Alternator….

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

Tommy's SHO

SHO Member #535
Joined
May 18, 2001
Messages
380
Reaction score
27
Location
Montréal, Quebec - Canada
Hello everyone. This morning as I was driving my wife to work and the battery light came on. I noticed also that as I pressed the accelerator the light went off and as soon it dropped back to idle the light came back on and after a few seconds the idle increased to 1000 RPM’s and remained there.
Upon returning home soon after, I took out the voltmeter and tested the battery with the engine off and it read 12.25 volts. I then started the car and tested the battery and it read 11.66 volts.
From that test I accepted the fact that I have to change the 8-year-old 62K mile alternator so I started the process to remove the alternator. Everything looked ok, no rust/corrosion spots anywhere, not even under the battery tray. (White grease works great under there :D )
Anyhow, is it smart to put anti-seize compound on the 4 bolts holding the alternator and the idler pulley bolt? The idler pulley had to be removed to get to one of the alternator bolts.
By the way, do you believe that Ford wants $700 (Canadian funds) for an alternator! I found a nice rebuilt one for $235 (Canadian funds) w/ a 12 month/10K km warranty.
Thanks.
-Tommy
 

BenBrausen

SHO Member
Joined
May 20, 2002
Messages
576
Reaction score
0
Location
Minneapolis, MN USA
A friend of mine works at Ford. A week ago his alternator on his '81 Crown Vic LTD went out with just 70K on the car. He check with his work and they wanted $500 for the alternator after his discount. He opted for a rebulid which was around $100 after discount. It's crazy how much OEM parts cost. The other day he said some lady paid $550 for ONE brake caliper on her Taurus. She might-as-well have upgraded to the SHO Stopper package for that price.
 

rangerj

Active Member
Joined
Jun 6, 2002
Messages
2,338
Reaction score
10
Location
Brunswick, Ohio
Fellas,

Just be careful you don't hit yourself in the eyebrow with a ratchet and need 5 stiches while changing your alternator!

If you did not get to read this episode on the forum just ignore this post.

T, I hope you can still laugh about it! Before you start your 60K you should try and score a hockey goalies mask! :D rangerj
 

Tommy's SHO

SHO Member #535
Joined
May 18, 2001
Messages
380
Reaction score
27
Location
Montréal, Quebec - Canada
rangerj:
Fellas,

Just be careful you don't hit yourself in the eyebrow with a ratchet and need 5 stiches while changing your alternator!

If you did not get to read this episode on the forum just ignore this post.

T, I hope you can still laugh about it! Before you start your 60K you should try and score a hockey goalies mask! :D rangerj
Yea, I remember that episode. :)
 

rangerj

Active Member
Joined
Jun 6, 2002
Messages
2,338
Reaction score
10
Location
Brunswick, Ohio
Tommy,

Yes, by all means use anti sieze compound on the bolts. If you removed the idler pulley nut, consider using a lock nut on the pulley.

Also condider removing the idler pulley mounting bracket and putting antisiaze compound on the threads of the "jackscrew" that raises and lowers the pulley for adjustment.

I wire brush the threads on the bench grinder to clean them up, then coat them with antisieze compound. Any bolt threaded into, or through, aluminum should be coated with something to prevent the metals from fusing together IMHO.

Ah, it is time for a cold Molsons! rangerj
 

Forum statistics

Threads
107,088
Messages
1,181,315
Members
16,153
Latest member
lapochkarr

Members online

Back
Top