Replacing Strut Mounts- Help

[SHOMEUP]

Basically i need to do these- i was wondering actually what it all includes of doing like what to take off and how...im doing it tomorrow(thursday) r there ne bolts i might need- what i thought to do is jack the car up loosent the bolts in the trunk on top of the strut and than lower it and take the old mount out and put the new one in i know things r not that easy- but thats what comes ot my mind..how close am i...let me know guys thanx

 

[jthomas68]

You`ll need to get the spring compressed.I`d run it to a small shop.The home ones can be not so safe.

 

[sdpatt]

You will first need to remove the strut and spring assembly from the car. Have you done this before? You will then have to compress the spring with a rented or loaned tool from an auto parts store to allow removal of the strut shaft nut. With the stock springs, the load is not that great. With Eibachs, you don't even need a compressor because the springs are short enough already. Replace the strut bracket, reinstall the shaft nut and remove the spring compressor. Reinstall the strut(s) and spring(s) in the car and have the car realigned unless you can locate the strut in exactly the same location as before.

 

[projectSHO89]

Good luck getting that nut off the top of the strut shaft. My 89 was so rusted it was half gone. Instead of just replacing the mounts at $30 each, I had to buy new struts (monroe sensa-tracs) at another $65 each (NAPA). Since the old springs sagged worse than MY rear end, those cost another $60 for the pair of cargo coils at NAPA. Toss in another $11 for new sway bar end links and bushings per side.

I ended up spending about $260 for parts to fix the rear end, but it's right now. No noises, bouncing, or sagging.

That pinch bolt that holds the bottom of the strut into the knuckle will be fun, too. Don't be surprised if you shear it off. After shearing off both of mine and 3 more in the junkyard, I finally figured out how to do it without a torch. Lots of PB Blaster, back it out a little, spray it, tighten it back up, repeat. Don't go more than a turn of the bolt at a time or the chances of shearing it go up. If you do shear it, just drill it out and replace it with a hardened bolt and locking nut.

My car had 185K miles on in with the original hardware. It had seen lots of salt and winter driving before I got it last November. If you're lucky, yours is a southern card with little salt exposure.

Steve
The $200 SHO!