Replacing fuel pump

[c_olcott]

Is it difficult to do?

I ordered the walbro 190l/hr kit and I should receive it tomorrow or thursday.
Does it come with full instruction for installing?
How about the fuel filter? Do I need to buy one or is it in the kit?

Also do the injectors NEED to be upgraded or is it just a good idea?

I am fairly mechanically inclinded but I'm a little sketchy when it comes to working with the gas lines. Is everything going to be very obvious once I get under the car and am I worrying about nothing?

 

[sdpatt]

I believe the steps to remove the fuel tank have been covered here before, but it is basically lower fuel level in the tank (by driving in preparation for the service) release system fuel pressure (relief valve and gas cap), remove filler and vent hoses, remove strap bolts, lower tank, remove fuel and electrical lines to the pump and drop the tank.

The fuel filter is not part of the pump. You should be replacing the suction strainer sock. Your injectors are fine as they are. Don't bother them unless you are installing a supercharger.

 

[Mr Anonymous]

Don't forget to buy a can of PB Blaster. You might want to let it soak in overnight. If the car still runs, you'd be better off driving it until the tank is as close to empty as possible.

 

[c_olcott]

I am "borrowing" a can of PB from the work shop here at work. The car still runs now, but everytime I start it up the ticking gets a little worse (hope it holds out through thursday, I can't afford to take a day off squint Anyways I have about 1/4 tank left and should be down to 1/8 - 1/16 when the pump comes in provided it doesn't die completely before hand. Thanks for the help

 

[shojuan]

If you are going to be dropping the tank then after getting the fuel level low enough that you can fit the remainder in some gas cans you have laying around then you can slip a piece of vinyl hose onto the outlet of the fuel filter, route that into your 5 gallon gas can and then ground the fuel pump test pin on the EEC-IV test connector (look at picture on shotimes under EEC-IV code diagnostics to see the correct pin...aw **** here it is:

) with the key in the ON position and the fuel pump will pump fuel as long as you're holding the other end of your test jumper on a chassis ground. The lighter you get that tank the easier your task will be.

I went the "cut the trapdoor" route using the writeup that Crazy88SHO wrote last winter and didn't have any problems. If you use a tool that makes very shallow cuts (I used a dremel cutoff wheel and went no deeper than the actual metal) then you should have plenty of clearance between your cutting tool and the fuel lines on the passenger side (I remember about 1/2-1" of clearance...which can make doing this very dangerous for somebody who is clumsy when cutting metal and/or using a clumsy cutting tool).

Either way, the kit you are going to get will have the replacement filter sock. It WON'T have a fuel return line check valve (that little orange "duck call" shaped deal on the fuel return pipe next to the fuel pump on the fuel pump/fuel level sender assembly.) It's up to you whether you want to replace that. Get one at the dealer if you decide you want to replace it. Change your main fuel filter when you are done too. Good luck!

 

[luigisho]

Chris,

The kit comes with instructions and Scott outlined it well also. It comes with the strainer sock. The rubber hose may need to be trimmed a bit to properly fit the pump to the sender. You'll see when you have the old pump out what I mean. Take a mental note before you completely remove the pump and sending unit how the fuel level float, or whatever it's called, is positioned so you can put it back positioned correctly. Change the fuel filter while the fuel system is depressurized.