Replacing front bearings

[ShoPo]

This is related to the Spindle thread...maybe
We (my son and I, not necessarily the royal we), concluded the right front bearing had failed: at walking speeds the steering wheel shimmied, and the tire/wheel could be observed to wobble. Lug nuts were tight, wheel was centered. With the wheel off, the axle stub could be moved up/down, and sideways, but the movement did not seem to be as far back as in the outer CV joint.

After extensive reading of the Ford factory manual, consultation with at least one counterman at every franchised parts store in the Free World, and too much wasted effort, we have concluded; the entire spindle must come off and the new bearing pressed into the spindle, and the (new) hub then pressed into the bearing.

How far from the truth are our premises?

How do you get the hub off the splined shaft if a slde hammer and WD 40 won't do it? A puller for constant tension and heat the hub?

How do you get the ABS sensor out? A sharp chisel did not break it loose.

How do you get the spindle off the lower control arm? A pickle fork will definitely trash the rubber boot.

All advise appreciated.

 

[revhardSHO]

- You have presumed correctly. The bearing needs to be pressed into the spindle.
- I have a mini 4lb sledge that I use for the splined output shaft. Make sure you put a bolt in there to protect the shaft from mushrooming. 1-2 Good wacks and its usually loose.
- Dont waste your time removing the ABS sensor from the spindle, Ive never been able to get it off from there. Follow the line up through the strut tower and disconnect it from there.
-To remove the spindle from the lower control arm use a large breaker bar and leverage off the subframe. You may have to stand on it, but it should come. Make sure you remove the pinch knuckle bolt!

 

[pjtoledo]

Getting the bearing out of the spindle requires a bearing that is still mostly intact. If the innerds fall out of the bearing, and only the outer race remains in the spindle, the job gets real hard, real fast. Cutting the inner race off the hub can be fun too. If the bearing falls apart it will be easier to get another spindle. The hub is heat treated metal, heating it may weaken it.

Perry

 

[SHO Type U]

You might as well replace other items like springs and struts while you have it all a part.

 

[rangerj]

SHOPO,

Read the following very carefully. I agree with the others, that is you have a failed bearing. You can and should get the hub and bearing as a SET. When a bearing gets as bad as you describe the hub usually gets distorted. So plan on replacing the hub with the bearing.

Here comes the important part. The bearing is pressed into the steering knuckle, then THE STEERING KNUCKLE IS PRESSED ONTO THE HUB. See the Auto Zone web site regarding this repair as it has drawings of this procedure. For that matter so does your service manual. It is important that the steering knuckle be pressed ONTO the hub, and NOT press the hub into the bearing. The latter can, and often does, distort the bearing which will shorten its useful life.

As for getting the lower control arm and ball joint out of the steering knuckle, try using a small bottle jack. Place the jack on the intersection of the lower control arm and the stablizer bar. Then set the upper part of the jack against the inner fender well lip. I use pieces of wood to protect these surfaces.

Pump up the jack and the lower control arm will move downward with the ball joint. Once the ball joint stud clears the steering knuckle the strut can be moves outward and back so the axel can be removed from the knuckle. You do not have to remove the axel from the trans (and shouldn't).

As stated above the ball joint pinch bolt and nut have to be removed first. The axel nut and the pinch bolt and nut should be replaced with new ones. The nuts are lock type nuts and are good for one use only. The pinch bolts usually show signs of wear. While you are at it I would replace the tie rod end cotter pins if they are rusted. This is a safety issue and cotter pins are very inexpensive.

The front wheel bearings, like an algebraic equasion, should be done in pairs, that is, what you do to one side should be done to the other side as well. rangerj

 

[ShoPo]

Thanks for all the advice. We used all the tricks, and they worked perfectly. New struts and springs are on the agenda.

 

[Colin95MTX]

What about for putting the new bearings in? Do I need to have them pressed in at a shop? Or is this something that can be done at home?

 

[rangerj]

Someone correct me if I'm wrong but I think that the 94, 95 (and later) have a "bolt on" wheel bearing/hub "assembly". So all you should have to do is unbolt the old and bolt on the new. rangerj

 

[yamahaSHO]

With having an Arizona car, you should not have any problem removing the ABS sensor. Speaking form experience that is.

 

[Electricat]

Someone correct me if I'm wrong but I think that the 94, 95 (and later) have a "bolt on" wheel bearing/hub "assembly". So all you should have to do is unbolt the old and bolt on the new. rangerj

Nope, the '94-5 still has the press-in bearing/hub assembly. I think the bolt-on started with Gen 3 in '96?

I just had to do one of mine a couple months ago, and it was quite DEFINATELY press on!! If I was doing it again, I would gladly pay a shop $20 to press that thing in there for me....