Replace Bank 2 -O2 sensor

[JonVH]

I've been getting a 176 code repeatedly & read some where that it's the bank 2 running lean. Supposed to be the O2 sensor more than likely since I just had the PFE valve replaced & the car has 144K. Anyway I got the sensor but read that the bank 2 is more of a bitch to replace. Where is it located? Any helpfull hints on replacement?Thanks.

 

[SHOspeed93]

Im thinking that O2 is the rear one, well it is above the trans on the y-pipe....Go to autozone and pic up a O2 socket for a 3/8 rachet, that will help alot, if your in illinios than you could borrow mine.
Tony

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93 Green ATX
DYNO results 197 torque and 175 hp at the wheels
246 torque and 218 hp at the crank
Eibach Springs, Strut Tower Braces
2 Chambered 40 Series Flowmasters
K&N Air Filter, Boxless
and Five-speed shift **** conversion
And a new trans, Indilgo Gauges
SHOcago Member
AIM: SHOspd93

 

[sdpatt]

Bank 1 includes cylinders 1-3, Bank 2 has cylinders 4-6. That makes bank 2 the front bank and that O2 sensor is as easy to access as the oil filter. Here is the description from the site posted below, "176 (M) Oxygen sensor not switching - system is or was lean Left or Front HO2S."
http://www.dalidesign.com/hbook/3digit.html

Scott

 

[JonVH]

So I take it that that means the front bank O2 sensor?. What would the "or left" represent?

Originally posted by sdpatt:
Bank 1 includes cylinders 1-3, Bank 2 has cylinders 4-6. That makes bank 2 the front bank and that O2 sensor is as easy to access as the oil filter. Here is the description from the site posted below, "176 (M) Oxygen sensor not switching - system is or was lean Left or Front HO2S."
http://www.dalidesign.com/hbook/3digit.html

Scott

 

[DeaconBlue]

You might as well replace both O2 sensors unless you know the the rear bank unit has less than 20K mile on it. I got the Bosch units at AutoZone for $39.95 each.

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95 MTX
with a few mods

 

[sdpatt]

The left/right labels are referenced with the front of the engine being the crankshaft damper end and the back being the output shaft to the transmission. The references are from the engine's perspective looking forward through the damper: left is toward the front of the car and right is to the rear.

Scott

 

[JonVH]

Well I changed the front O2 sensor last night (while it was still in the 50s) with the Motorcraft part I got from SHOnut with a pair of water pliers. Cleared the code & she runs great today more punch at the bottom end & no more check engine light. Thanks for everyones help.
I'll be doing the rear sensor this spring, I guess it's harder to do especially with an ATX.

Any thoughts on Bosh vs. the Mottorcraft?
I know Bosh makes good stuff & $43 is lot better than $70 (after shipping).

Thanks again all.

 

[sdpatt]

The Bosch sensors are quality parts and they looked very much like the OEM sensors. I recently installed a pair on my car and noticed more punch from the engine and somewhat better gas mileage. The sensors for the 3.0L: Bosch P/N 13942, AutoZone, $33.99+tax, and the 3.2L: Bosch 13223, AutoZone, $40.99+tax. Believe it or not, the front bank's sensor was still the original.

Scott




[This message has been edited by sdpatt (edited 01-30-2002).]

 

[sprink268]

Will this part # work for all of our cars? I thought that at one time you had to match the number off of the old sensor to the number on the new sensor.

Clay
'91 59K
lite mods

 

[sdpatt]

Those are the part numbers for all our cars according to Bosch's cross reference.

Scott

 

[DeaconBlue]

As a point of reference, several ATX owner report that changing the rear O2 sensor is actually easier by reach down from above the engine vs. putting the car on ramps and changing it from under the car.

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95 MTX
with a few mods