removing old style flywheel insert

[tompumped]

I'd like to remove the friction surface since it's down to the aluminum edge. I snapped a socket already. I'm thinking about buying an impact socket. I soaked it in 50/50 acetone atf for days. No difference. I only soaked the back side though.

When I got it the friction surface was just above the aluminum outside, then it was even after the resurface. I'm thinking the surface needs to be even with the aluminum.

I'm worried that the new style wont work since they use a nut and bolt. The back of the flywheel is stepped the nut wouldn't be making full contact with the surface.

Should I have another place resurface the flywheel and see if I can use it? The steel is just above the bolt heads.

 

[rubydist]

you should be able to resurface it at least one more time, they just have to do the entire thing (steel and aluminum both) so its flat when they are done.

 

[tompumped]

I'm going that way. I trust your opinion. The thing weighs 7.5lbs it's light.

I never installed a light weight flywheel so I was all excited and bam it slipped. I then had another flywheel resurfaced by the same place and exact same symptoms. It would only slip when trying to chirp second. I waited 1500 or more miles both times.

My father had steel rulers, t squares and wood measuring devices. I was able to see light when I flashed the light behind them so I just chalked it up to my luck. They sell a flywheel gauge off ebay, but i'll just have it done elsewhere. I haven't pulled this one yet to see if it's properly resurfaced.

 

[LOUDSHO92]

We can install a new insert here at SHO Source. We use rivets though as the nut and bolts have issues due to the thermal cycles.

 

[tompumped]

Id imagine it costs a lot since none of the bolts will budge. This guy said put it in the oven at 450.

I had it resurfaced today right in front of me and you could tell it was off. That machine is awesome. I took the steel one off the car today and it appears just as bad. That other place should stick to sellin parts and leave the real shit to a machinist.

Now I wont have to look at the flywheel and say what a waste.

 

[LOUDSHO92]

It is $165 to remove and replace the insert.

 

[tompumped]

I'd probably send it to you guys in the future if I ever do another clutch.

I realized I could cut slots into the bolts and use an impact driver to remove them.

I also found out that on our cars the pins center the pressure plate not the bolts. The shoulder on the bolts isn't the right diameter or length.

Damn guy at the machine shop told me i'd be fine without them and on some vehicles you would be. I'm just happy I didn't install it without them and screw myself.

 

[tompumped]

Word of caution, AMS clutch kits (Rhino Pac), you will either get a valeo plate and disc or a chinese plate and disc. Plate has c122 on it, not valeo anywhere.

I guess after what i've been through I should've not taken the warranty and bought a LUK, southbend or clutchnet.

Also the pedal feel is noticably stiffer than the luk kit and the last rhino pac kit I got. I just hope it lasts, but I don't have much faith. When I bought the car I have it had a chinese pressure plate, & burned disc, but the clutch wasn't adjusted properly.

The light flywheel definitely has a rougher idle.

 

[zak]

.
The light flywheel definitely has a rougher idle.

Vadim warned me of this when I bought a SHOshop Al flywheel for my then 35 K mile SHO (bought my SHO new). He siad you could feel it through the steering wheel (pulsing).

Weird thing is I put it in and felt nothing (other than faster rev/easier matching etc.). It was only until later, maybe 80 K miles that I began to feel it/notice slightly rougher idle.

I took it as a sign that the ignition/injection or whatever was in much better shape at 35 K miles.

 

[tompumped]

I also have aluminum subframe mounts also it's pretty obvious, but once you rev the motor and all through the rev range it's gone.

I'm happy for the time being, lets see how long this pressure plate lasts, hopefully they didn't change the spring geometry because we know how well that worked for clutchmasters. It is definitely stiffer by quite a bit. It might be stiffer than a clutch with 100k miles.

 

[tompumped]

I read most of a long thread where people are speculating the reason the fingers wear is a direct result of the design. I'm leaning towards they might be right because my clutch had maybe 20k on it and the fingers were starting to wear. I always adjusted the clutch, you could tell when it needed to be adjusted because the pedal immediately felt different, usually after romping on it.

I think that if there was free play it would resolve the problem, but there might not be enough pedal movement to release the pressure plate?

 

[rubydist]

free play actually makes the fingers wear faster. it needs to be tight enough that the tob is always spinning - if the tob slips against the fingers (rather than spinning with the fingers) then the fingers wear fast.

 

[tompumped]

I have pretty bad luck.

That plate broke a strap in two thousand miles. I beat the shit out of my first sho way, way worse than what I did. I beat this car also with a luk clutch, but not that bad.

To top it off I bought a replacement luk kit on ebay and it had a C122 plate. I'm now going to buy a south bend, sho nut reinforced plate or clutchnet.

I lost my patience. I was surprised to see the luk wasn't a valeo plate. If you want to install that chinese pos kit you can buy them for like 140 shipped on ebay. I wouldn't touch one ever again.