Removing a/c accumulator/line

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CheckerSHO

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I have a 90 and im trying to remove the a/c accumulator and line that goes to the evap.
whats the easiest way to get that thing out? I was thinking remove the torque strut, fuel lines, and whatever wiring is in that corner and take it out from the top...anyone done it another maybe easier way?
 

projectSHO89

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Yeah, all that stuff needs to go, along with the battery, tray, and a clamp that holds the lines to the strut tower.

Once you get the tool in there to release the springlock coupler, twist and pull to try to get it loose from the evaporator. Good luck, I hope you didn't really need all that skin your knuckles came with! Remember, the hose needs to be twisted and rotated to break the likely corrosion in the joint.

Last fall I finally had to use a hacksaw on my lines when I was replacing the heter core. Once I had the evaporator out of the car, I was able to work them loose with visegrips while using the springlock tool.

Steve
89

<small>[ July 21, 2002, 07:06 PM: Message edited by: projectSHO89 ]</small>
 

tomw

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Ask Jeremy Thomas- He is in the middle of replacing the dryer and lines on his 91 and can shed some light on the subject.

Tom W
 

jthomas68

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Yeah,ask me :DActually,i cut mine with a saw too because it was getting replaced.There are a few brackets to come off,the torque limiter,and the front like needs to be disconnected to drop the drier down.I`m going to try to snake the other end underneath the wires,but my hood will be off so it may be easier.
 

Emerald94

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I got mine replaced too and my mechanic removed everything listed in the first post as well as the engine dampener.
He didn't think it was a particularly fun job to do!!
 

nathaluc

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jthomas68 (or anyone else!) - Can you give me a few tips on how the drier replacement went ? I was just about to order a new drier & hose and then looked closely at the job... There seems to be another A/C hose running on top of the drier which I don't want to disconnect, I don't mind removing any mechanical part like engine dampener, battery, steps I've taken with the 60k, but I want to avoid the gas lines; I replaced my injectors a few weeks ago and couldn't stand the smell in the house ! Is it possible at all to route the hose back in its place ???
 

rangerj

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The rust that forms on the spring and in the connection prevent the springlock from expanding. So, spray some penetrating oil in the connection, let it saturate the rust for awhile, then scrape the inside of the connection with a pick to loosen some of the rust.

This helps A LITTLE, but in this case a little goes a long way. The key is to get the lockspring to expand, and corrosion is preventing this from happening. Good luck. That job is a PIA, especially the two connections in the firewall. rangerj
 

nathaluc

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Thanks for the tips on disconnecting the old drier. BTW, isn't there only one connection at the firewall ? I will not remove anything else than the drier !

My main concern is reinstalling the new drier with its long hose... I don't want to touch any other A/C hose or fuel lines. Is it possible ?
 

rangerj

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Getting the accumulator/dryer hose out is much easier if you disconnect the fuel lines, the damper and damper mount, the battery and battery tray, set aside the power steering resivoir (you do not have to remove it), and I think I ended up removing the drive belts and pulleys to get clearance. The line lacks flexability so clearance is an issue.

The high pressure line does not have to be removed, but if you are converting to R-134a it is VERY Highly recommended that you change the line. It may be required for the warranty on the compressor if you are replacing the compressor.
rangerj
 

rangerj

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NAPA, Federated Auto Parts stores, Carquest Auto parts Stores, O'Riely's, Pep Boys, Fordpartsonline, etc.

Try your local parts store. rangerj
 

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